Welcome to My Puppy Page!

This "WebPage" will be mostly for collection of references to things about dogs, which can, and/or will, concern my "New Puppy" born February 24th, 2015. He is a German Shepherd / Husky combo with a strong leaning to the Husky genetics... -or- at least I want to believe that. Now I have read that these Huskies are difficult to train, but I got him anyway. Hoping that the Shepherd mix will make him easier. In the few days we have had him, he seems to be fairly smart. Hopefully this is not just my "Dog-Parent" pride. The items collected here will probably remain unchanged -but- a few will get altered to fit my situation and/or needs. Like, for example, the Mullberry tree. The one in the article was in their back yard. Mine is in the front. The other change will be GS=German Shepherd instead of GSD=German Shepherd Dog. You don't refer to a Husky as a SHD=Siberian Husky Dog or a Cocker Spaniel as a CSD=Cocker Spaniel Dog so why do we have to do it for the GS's?? I will even change the quotes that I have taken from the other pages... so I stay consistent.
Well, I stand corrected!! They ARE GSD's... Refer:  German Shepherd Dogs   I will change all the GS's back to GSD's.   Now then, you will find things repeated for two reasons. One; Cause I forgot that I put the item in here already and Two; Cause I think it is important for the subject at hand... in both or more places. (Yeah, I like this little 'UnSure' guy.)

Now then, I have always liked German Shepherds, mainly cause I grew up with Rin Tin Tin. However, I have also been fascinated with the Huskies. As stated elsewhere, on this page, I fell in love with the picture of my new puppy on the Internet in Craigs List. We started looking for a 'replacement', which is not a good word, cause my Tipper could never really be replaced, after she passed, but we wanted/needed another animal. Both for us and for our kitty. I didn't specifically look for a GSD/Husky but was looking for one or the other. As it turned out I got both. I didn't realize what I was getting into. I want to emphasize that I 'lucked out' and got a wonderful dog. He, as stated elsewhere by others, is NOT a stroll in the park...-BUT- he has become a very enjoyable part of my life. Just need to learn how to properly train, handle and associate with him. Think he is smarter than me.

Crossing a German Shepherd dog with a Siberian husky has led to a distinctive dog known as the German shepherd husky mix, Siberian shepherd, German husky, Husky-shepherd or Gerberian Shepsky depending on your preference.

 Belgian Shepherd Husky Hybrids  
 Chips   the most highly decorated WW2 dog was a German Shepherd / Husky / Collie mix.
 Husky or Wolf    Shepherd or Wolf    Breeds with Known Wolf Ancestry    Wolfdog  
Why all these references to Wolf Dogs?? Cause I have had many people tell me how my Dakotah looks so much like a Wolf. In fact a number of the neighborhood kids have asked me if they could pet my Wolf.!!
 The Three Basic Kinds of German Shepherds  

 June 22nd, 2016   One thing that I want to say right here at the top. I have learned that it is the "Quality" of the treat that matters and NOT the "Quantity". During this past year of ownership I have learned that the hard way. IF I had used better treats from the beginning I'm sure... no... I know, that my 'Puppy' would have better manners and be better trained. He isn't all that bad now -but- he would have been better. So IF you are reading this and looking for 'tips' on training... get some quality  Treats   to use... right at the start!! (Chicken and Cheeze seem to get the best results, along with "Beggin Strips Bacon and Cheeze flavor".)
From:  ThatMutt.com  
Mistake #4: Not using the right treats.
And I mean  treats !  Not dry Milkbones, but hot dogs, real hamburger, pieces of chicken, etc.   (It doesn't hurt to train your dog when he's a little hungry, either.)
 What makes a great training treat?  Myth Busting - Dogs that Aren't Food Motivated
 March 16th, 2017  One other thing... you and the dog... need some 'alone time' training.

This contains Pics and Videos, which may, no it does, make this load up fully ... slowly.   (some English... ehy, what!?!) I have referred to him as my Cat Dog, Garbage Dog, Water Dog, Genius Dog... and a few others -and- one of them you will see in the included pics and vids. Chameleon Dog. He started out as this pretty Siver/Gray puppy and has changed to darker and back to lighter over the months. The names are not meant to be derogatory just that he seems to eat everything, loves water, imitates the cat... etc.

This time around, with my New Puppy, I hope to be a better owner than I have in the past. Love and praise need to come out more than stern no's and reprimands. The later is required at times but should be minimal. What I have learned in this "retraining" of myself is; you need to find something else for the pup to do instead of just saying "Stop, Quit, No, Get Off or Down". Direct his/her attention to something else... like a chew toy instead of the furniture. AND most importantly... praise him/her for chewing the toy.

 November 7th, 2015   My 'Puppy', Dakotah, is now 36 weeks of age. Of that time, he has been in my possession for 31 weeks. By some calculations he is 8½ months old and by others he is 9 months old. I prefer the first calc. Now he will do things -and- he won't do things... good and bad. One of the things, and really the main one, that I wanted to accomplish by his 1st birthday was/is; to have him 'come to me UN-Conditionally when called'. Right now, that is not happening. I seem to be the most desirous thing in the world when I come home from work or from going somewhere -but- NOT outside. And the reason is not becuase of anything in particular. He just likes to go to the neighbors houses. One is directly across the street where the lady of the house is dearly loved by my Dakotah -but- the feeling in NOT mutual. Still he wants to be with her. And next door to her lives his friend Tomodachi, a Heeler dog, that is only 2 weeks younger than my Dakotah. I do not run, chase or yell at him. I just walk after him till he finally comes to me -or- I corner him in one of the side yards. This I have been told, and read about, is the reason a number of dogs his age get taken to shelters -or- the dog pound. Well, mine won't!! Actions and antics like these are expected until they are 18 months, or so, of age... or so 'they' say. That means I have until August of 2016... just so happens that I will turn 70 at that time!!

 August 24th, 2016   Well, I have had my 70th Birthday and today is Dakotah's 18 month birthday. Yes he obeys me better and he did mellow out a little bit. Still not where I would like him to be -but- that is my fault and not his. I did not spend enough time with him on the essentials. I took him on a lot of "exercise walks" with his dog friends but not enough training exercises. Can't expect him to learn and obey what he is not taught and/or practiced with/on.

 Credits/References:  ALL "Statements/Paragraphs/Ideas" taken from another WebPage, to 'emphasize' the item that I am at the moment concentrating on, are properly referenced, IF not at the same spot, it will be somewhere else on this WebPage.

These particular references were placed up here in the beginning because ... I believe that they are very, very important...     Defensive Dog Handling   -and-  Training Never Ends   -and-
 Step by Step to Training Your Puppy   -and-  Zak George's Dog Training rEvolution  
-and last but not least-  The Top 5 Times a Child Should Never Pet a Dog  

  And this was my beloved Tipper... whom I didn't realize how much I would miss until she was gone. The hi-light of her day was our daily morning walks.
A Dog's Love
When you get a dog
your house will never
be perfectly clean again
and you may never
pee alone again
but will have more
love than you ever
could have imagined.
Taken from unknown author on Facebook.

Consider Your Dog's Breed and Individual Personality

To a professional trainer, thoroughly teaching a behavior means dozens, hundreds, even thousands of reps.
A Husky German Shepherd mix will be fairly easy to train as long as you are consistent and patient. In this first year I think that I have been more patient than usual -but- not consistent enough. Shame on me and I hope to improve on that. I didn't know, or didn't realize a lot of things and now we both have learned a lot.

When you evaluate the thoroughness of your training, take your individual dog into account. It's a challenge to teach Afghans and other sighthounds to come reliably when called. Terriers, who belong to a group of breeds developed precisely as tireless hunters of vermin, will find rodents more intensely interesting than your average dog. Miniature Pinschers are notorious for their inclination to bark. If you're finding it a slog to teach your dog a particular behavior, consider what she was originally bred to do. When you train against the grain, expect to need extra time and practice.
 German Shepherd Not Listening  

 Dakotah Shepherd  - a "new breed"???

 

Some Famous German Shepherds
Rin Tin Tin, dogs who starred in the classic TV shows and movies
Clipper, U.S. First Lady, Jacqueline Kennedy's dog
Buddy, the first Seeing Eye Guide Dog and owned by Morris Frank
Strongheart, star of movies, including a 1925 movie, White Fang
Gandalf, a search and rescue dog who found a missing boy scout in 2007
Orso, , owned by US General Norman Schwarzkopf
Ork, , owned by singer/songwriter, Amy Grant
Blondi, Adolf Hitler's German Shepherd
Refer:  How to Love your Dog  

   

  Husky -or- Shepherd

My Puppy is a Husky / German Shepherd combo. From his appearance, it looks like the Husky is more prominent. Now then, in my seaches over the Web, I have read that Huskies are a little difficult to train -and- they require a lot of attention. -But- the reward ... of proper training ... is worth it. -But- I do NOT have a pure Husky. He is partly German Shepherd. So... in this "Be Dog Savy" which one do I pick?? Well, further investigation shows that it doesn't make as much difference as they portrayed. The "Descriptions" were pretty much the same!! In fact, except for some 'minor' wording and changing from "Husky" to "German Shepherd" they were exactly the same... even the dog ages!! -AND- the "Description" for a "Cocker Spaniel" was also te same!! EVEN the age of 7 Weeks when brought home!!
    Now then, in their 'possible defence', I did NOT purchase the German Shepherd version... only the Husky one. So, the actual 'book' may be lots different -and- only the advertising is the same... to save on costs... I did, I only purchsed one.

 Husky Shepherd    German Shepherd Husky Mix:Traits    Gerberian Shepsky 101  

 German Shepherd Dog   and  Siberian Husky  
 Five Things You Should Know Before Adopting a Siberian Husky  
 Shepherd - Husky Mix Info    Cross breeding Problems  
Now then, I have included the 'Cross Breeding' reference because my Gerberian Shepsky was mentioned... and not flatteringly. I do not agree with everything they said -only- the part that breeders should be controlled -and- regulated. I created this WebPage to keep track of things I learned and to share my experiences with everyone. You can see the ups and downs of my raising this dog -and- I do not believe that it was a whole lot different from my previous dogs. I've owned a purebred German Shepherd and a number of mutts. And by the way, IF you go to that site and read it all the way down... my Gerberian Shepsky chases the rabbits. And one last comment; No matter what type of breeding you do, you are probably gona have problems IF you don't get the health of 'both' parents checked.

The German Shepherd Husky Mix Dog
is a recognized breed within two organizations in the US -
the American Canine Hybrid Club (ACHC), and the Dog Registry of America (DRA).

Physical appearance

The Gerberian Shepsky is a large-sized type of dog with a height of 20 -25 inches. The weight standing is 45-88 lbs but is mostly dependent on the diet and overall well being of the dog. The average lifespan of a Gerberian Shepsky is 13 years. This breed is therefore ideal for those looking for a short term emotional and physical commitment in a dog pet.
Well, my Dakotah, at the age of 1 year and 9 months weighs in at 66.4Ibs. He is 25 inches tall.

It is also possible for its lifespan to vary from the said years for these are just human estimations but it's mostly a matter of the divine. Gerberian Shepskies come in a variety of colors, the most common being black and brown with black. Other color variations include blue, red, white, cream, brown and white, pepper and salt/gray and light brown or golden.
They left out Sable. Course Sable looks like a combination of ALL of those colors. Makes a very pretty dog... even though its a boy.
Sable: Black-tipped hairs; the background color can be gold to yellow, silver, grey, or tan. The darkness of the coat depends on how much of each hair is black versus the lighter color.

Gerberian Shepskies have a straight haired double coat that can be long, short, dense or medium. The coat is generally thick with a fluffy-like appearance. The inner coat generally contains thick and soft hair. Being arctic dogs, the double coat provides much needed protection from overly hot and cold weather conditions. Its ears are usually pointy and so is the muzzle. The skull at times resembles that of the German Shepherds or that of the Siberian Husky. Eyes can at times be dual-colored. The Gerberian Shepsky is not suited to live in hot places.
Well now, my Dakotah is along the 'medium' I would say. But just like a lot of other places I have looked, they are talking out of both sides of their mouth. First it is mentioned that he is an artic dog and can handle overly hot and cold weather conditions, and then they say that they are not suited to live in hot places. Hmmmmm... We live in Phoenix... Arizona... -and- he was born here. Oh by the way, he has beautiful brown eyes.
An unstoppable intellect and intense need to be physically and mentally occupied is a prominent trait of the husky.  How to Train a Husky  

 Lap Dog?? May 14th, 2015   Today, is his 11th week birthday. He still thinks he is a Lap Dog... in fact that is where he is at the moment!! Made entering that previous sentence difficult. We took a 'potty' break and now he is playing with toys down on the floor. Yeah, this paragraph was split between in lap and out. Not sure what is gona happen when he gets to full size!?!
UpDate: At 19 weeks he still thinks he is a Lap Dog!!

 GSD/Husky Facts   And I found this on  GSD Corner . The last one, the "Czech Working Lines", looks a lot like my Dakotah.  FLAME of Sapphire Mountain  

Speaking of which, his appearance is split also. His face is looking more like a German Shepherd but his body fur is more Husky. We'll see... only time will tell. I like both, so it doesn't matter. Besides that, I fell in 'love' with this Puppy at first sight and that has not changed.

 Start Puppy Off Right    Puppy Training Tips  

 Verbal Commands  At least the ones I am trying to use:

  • Look at me Attention -or- Hey : Get his focus on you
    Ready : This became the command AFTER obtaining Chet Womach's  "Advanced Training"  .
    Rosemary at GSD Corner   GSD Not Listening  
  • Dakotah come; Dakotah Leash; Dakotah Now : Obviously calling the dog. Now this can get controversial -but- just saying his name could also be used to get his attention.
     Improve Recall    Emergency Recall  
    Now then, the 'Emergency Recall' reference above mentions that ALL recalls should be an emergency. A regular come should never be of the attitude, "Come IF you feel like it, or when you are ready" -BUT- to always come and now.
     Teach Your Dog to Come When Called, No Matter What!    Husky off Lead  
     Quick, Simple & Fun Way to Teach the Come Command  
    One final note... IF you are reading this -and- you have a new dog, be it a puppy -or- and older one -- DO NOT ignore the long line rule for training in the recall command. I did and I am suffering. I have started -- late -- using a long line for recall training -and- he is getting better. You might find having two, or three, commands for recall works better than one. I have. 'Come' is for treats and lovin'. 'Leash' means hookup time. And... 'Now' means get here now!! The last one needs more work...
    ...but the first two are starting to come along. I desire to eventually have an "UN-conditional" Re-Call.
  • Go House -or- House : Go into the house
  • Go Side -or- Outside : Again obvious command
  • Go Potty : An attempt ...Actually it somewhat works.
  • Sit : Sit down
  • Good Boy -or- Good Puppy : Praise - I think he likes the second one better... my marker??
  • No : The big Negative command
  • Yes : A marker instead of the clicker.
  • Off or No Jump : Just what it says    Jumping Up   Basically, NO attention until / unless all 4 paws are on the floor.    Zak George  
  • No Street : Stay out of street
  • Stay : Don't move till released with a Break.
  • Wait : Primarily for the door.
     Stay versus Wait  
  • Down : This means to Lie down
  • No Bite : Well...
     GSD Puppy Biting  
  • Hault : When walking, stop and sit
  • Break -or- OK : A release command
  • Watch House : Means we are leaving, stay in.
  • Drop it : Whatever is in his mouth
     Drop it Protection Training
  • Leave it : Just what it says    Leave it 
  • Let go : Similar to drop it except you are holding one end.
  • Heel : Align to your left leg. A problem here. I feel that it should be a motion only command -but- others say it should also command him to come to your left side and sit.
  • Stand Up : On all fours
  • Fetch it : Go get the ball -or- object thrown
     How do I get my dog to fetch    Tab Teach Dog to Fetch  
    Now this one is a challange. I have a dog that is 50% Shepherd and 50% Husky. My previous dogs, a German Shepherd and a GSD/Bull Terrier mix would both play fetch. I expected this one to also play fetch. Nope!! Maybe 3 or 4 times, if you are lucky but for the most part... NO. As I read on the Web, that is a trait of the Huskies. I'm trying to get him more interested but it is not really his cup of tea. He likes the running part and when I am at the park and others are playing fetch, he will just run with the other dogs and let them fetch and retrieve.
     Why Doesn't My Dog... Fetch?  
  • Bring it to me : Again, obvious
  • Weave : This is one that I have him go between my legs as I am walking. I use the Heel command to get the starting position.
  • Back-up : Back away from me. Part of trick.
  • Turn Around : Turn to my right facing away from me. Part of trick.
  • Rotate : Turn to my left facing away from me. Part of trick.

Now then, I had these listed before I found the German Shepherd Corner, referred to below, which also has most of these same commands listed. I have since added a few just to keep all the commands together. Some are used to perform tricks -but- they are also used to exercise his brain.


    German Shepherd Training    German Shepherd Corner    Grooming And Care    Seven ways to Fresh  
    Shepherd Husky Mix  

As can be seen in these pics, his color has changed almost daily.



Now then, I found the following blurbs on the Web... I am not responsible for the breed name. In some ways it is kinda cool... in others kinda dorky.
Shepherd Husky Mix - Gerberian Shepsky (Siberian Husky / German Shepherd hybrid dog)

A German Shepherd Siberian Husky Mix will need to be involved in an activity as an outlet for their boundless energy. German Shepherds and Huskies are strong working dogs and require ample exercise.
Both breeds have a great amount of dog intelligence. They are easily bored and may become destructive without mental and physical stimulation.
German Shepherd Husky Mix: A Husky German Shepherd mix will be fairly easy to train as long as you are consistent and patient. Since both breeds have a known  prey drive , proper socialization will be extremely important.

A German Shepherd and Siberian Husky mix is called a  Gerberian Shepsky  , according to Dog Breed Plus. Gerberian Shepskies are social, alert and intelligent dogs.
Gerberian Shepsky dogs grow between 45 and 88 pounds and between 20 and 25 inches high. They will live between 10 and 13 years. Gerberian Shepskies are good for guard dogs, agility dogs and for weight pulling. They are easy to train and generally learn quickly. With socialization, they can be good around children. Gerberian Shepskies have a wide range of colors. The breed is recognized by the American Canine Hybrid Club and the Dog Registry of America Inc.

       

I have mentioned that my "Puppy" is like a Chameleon and changes colors. These show that "light" plays a big important psrt in this.

Is the Gerberian Shepsky the Right Breed for you?

  • Moderate Maintenance: Grooming should be performed regularly to keep its fur in good shape. No trimming or stripping needed. All I have to do is ... Find Tipper's brush. Well, I found it. Used it a few times and filled it on a couple of strokes. Then on Christmas Eve, 2015, I gave him a bath. Boy was that a mistake. The gobs of hair comming off, and out, of him was unbelievable!! Think I need to check into a vacuum groomer.  Vacuum Grooming  
  • Moderate Shedding: Expect this dog to shed regularly. Be prepared to vacuum often. Brushing will reduce shedding as well as make the coat softer and cleaner. Now then, I have heard, and read, differentiating reports on this. At 5 months old, July 17th, 2015 we haven't noticed all that much shedding. So far, it is less, a lot less, than our previous dog which was a German Shepherd/Bull Terrier mix... and Tan in color. Well, that changed at Christmas(see above)... 5 mo later. He turned 10 months old on Christmas Eve.
  • Moderately Easy Training: Training won't require too much attention and effort, though it won't be easier than other breeds. Expect results to come gradually. Potty training took 'almost' 5 months. That shared my number one of "Coming when called"... UN-conditionally. He does not do that... yet. July 17th, 2015. Later: December, 2015. Comming when called is getting better.
  • Good Watchdog Ability: This dog will bark and alert its owners when an intruder is present. If a situation escalates, the dog can be depended on to defend and protect its owner and family. This will be a wait and see -but- his guarding/protecting characteristics have been becomming more apparent as of late. At least according to some of my fellow dog walkers. At home, so far, it has not been noticed. August/September 2015 - 7½ months
  • Fairly Active: It will need regular exercise to maintain its fitness. Trips to the dog park are a great idea. This became interesting today. We met at the park, two others with young pups. One with a 17-18 week old German Shepher and our neighbor who has a 17-18 week old Heeler. In the morning we had met with Matt and his Heeler. Both encounters required a lot of running. IF this can continue, there will be no problem in Dakotah getting enough exercise.
  • Good with Kids: This is a suitable breed for kids and is known to be playful, energetic, and affectionate around them. It is also friendly toward other pets. I am anxiously hoping that this trait, good with other pets, comes to lite in Dakotah. Of the other two dogs that we walk with in the morning, the German Shepherd is a bit of a bully to the Cocker Spaniel and Dakotah. However, Dakotah and the Cocker Spaniel get along much better. Hopefully this will continue.

Credit the following to:  "Abby Farson Pratt" at Should you get a GSD?   I felt that it fit my GSD/Husky so I copied it here, with her permission, so that I don't loose it. There is more on her pages so you might want to jump over there. I realize this is double but I felt that they both have good things to say.


Obviously, I've become a fan of the breed, even though I never intended to become one. German shepherds just kind of happened to me. But in my time raising Pyrrha, fostering German shepherds, and now rearing our new GSD puppy, I feel like I'm beginning to learn about the many nuances of the breed.
I was already a 'fan' and this GSD/Husky is making me continue in that love.

So, here are 11 things that I'd tell someone who wanted a GSD:(or a GSD/Husky)

  1. A GSD is not a golden retriever. Sometimes I feel like many people assume that a lab/golden retriever is just the default "dog personality" (e.g., gregarious, every person is their best friend). Obviously, this is not true for every GSD, but shepherds tend to be "one person" (or "one family") dogs. Your shepherd doesn't think that every person she meets is her best friend, and that's part of her heritage. Shepherds are a bit suspicious of strangers. Also be prepared for your shepherd to pick someone to be her person in your family. (In my family, Pyrrha unequivocally picked me. Guion almost doesn't exist in her universe.) This can be saddening, but it's also a trait of the breed.
  2. Beware the land sharks! GSD puppies have earned the moniker "land shark" for their mouthiness. It comes from somewhere deep in their herding heritage, I suppose, but these are very bitey puppies! For this reason, a GSD can be a trying breed with young children, who often become unwitting targets for playful biting. Start teaching your puppy right away that biting humans is inappropriate behavior and channel that mouthiness into heavy-duty chew toys and games that don't involve tasty human hands.
  3. Be watchful for signs of shyness. Many GSDs, especially American-line dogs bred for show/companionship, tend toward shyness and anxiety. If not addressed, this shyness can transform into fear-based aggression. For this reason, socialize that puppy from the minute he comes home with you, and don't stop throughout his lifetime.
  4. Expect a dog who wants to know your business all the time. If you don't like having a dog follow you everywhere, even into the bathroom, perhaps reconsider getting a German shepherd. These dogs are busybodies, and they want to know where you are and what you are doing at ALL times - in the event that your actions could compromise the security of the house and the family. They're just doing their jobs, you know. :-)
  5. Hope you love dog hair... everywhere. There's a reason people call them "German shedders." Enough said! GSDs have a double coat, which equals twice as much fur all of your floor, your sofa, your clothes, etc. You also can't win with your wardrobe; if you end up with a classic black-and-tan German shepherd, they have black, brown, tan, and sometimes white hair on them, so no color of clothing is immune!
  6. GSDs like to play rough. Shepherds have a tendency to rough-house with both people and other dogs. They're intense animals! They don't have the "soft mouths" of retrievers or the delicate playfulness of smaller breeds. Dog owners with other breeds have told me that it took them a while to realize that our shepherds were playing with their dogs - and not trying to kill them. In my experience, even in play, shepherds like to go for the throat and get into some heavy-duty wrestling. Supervise their interactions with other dogs, and help your shepherd take lots of breaks and time-outs so that the play doesn't get too overwhelming.
  7. Get ready for negative public perceptions. Thanks to the media, history, popular culture, and surely many mishandled dogs, German shepherds don't exactly have the best public image. If it hurts your feelings that some people are automatically scared of your dog, a GSD may not be right for you. If you have a GSD, let this motivate you to make your dog a great breed ambassador and help change negative stereotypes.
  8. Be prepared for a potentially vocal dog. GSDs also have a tendency to be vocal. We've had some dogs who were just whiners; they whined for a variety of reasons (excitement, unbridled joy, stress, to get attention, to get food). Other dogs were more bark-y, especially at strangers walking past our fence or at other dogs. Pyrrha is an uncharacteristically quiet GSD; but our little Eden loves barking, barking just for the fun of it! Barking can be a very difficult behavior to curb, especially if it's woven into a dog's lineage, as it has been with shepherds for a while now. Be aware of this issue, and be prepared to start training your dog when and how to be quiet.
  9. Consider the large number of health issues. German shepherds are famous for their litany of health issues. On a range from more benign (allergies) to life-threatening (osteosarcoma, hemangioma), shepherds seem to have them all. The breed even has predispositions to diseases that seem to occur exclusively within the purebred line (e.g., degenerative myelopathy, which was once called "German shepherd neuropathy.") It's heartbreaking, but it's a reality if you want a shepherd. Find a good vet (preferably one with shepherd experience), and start taking measures to keep your shepherd trim and healthy.
  10. Start brainstorming now about how to keep your puppy's brain engaged. Otherwise, you are going to have a little terror on your hands. German shepherds are large, active, athletic, and highly intelligent dogs. What this means is that if they get bored, you are going to seriously regret bringing this fuzzy monster into your house. A smart dog with no job to do = a mischief-making tornado. Try obedience classes, agility, flyball, schutzhund, herding, nose work, etc. Shepherds can excel at many canine sports and activities!
  11. If you want a purebred puppy, do your research about the difference between working-line and show-line GSDs. You may be surprised to learn that there's a large difference within the GSD breed between dogs who are bred to work and dogs who are bred to win show ribbons. This can be a touchy subject for some, but in general, I feel that the bottom line is this: Working-line dogs are sounder and healthier, because they are bred to do a job. Show-line dogs are just bred to look pretty and meet the sacred "breed standard," which has morphed into requiring these horribly exaggerated hocks and back lines, which puts strain on the hips and wreck the dog's gait. This post is a great introduction to the topic of working-line vs. show-line German shepherds, and it's an excellent place to start. There's also working-line breeder Christine of Blackthorn Kennels, who keeps a great blog about her beautiful dogs, who even compete in herding. The downside of a working-line dog is that they are INTENSE, and they can be unsuited for a quiet urban or suburban lifestyle. Start researching now to determine what kind of GSD suits you and your family.

Copped/stolen the following from:  Dog Pet Breeds   Now then, I have said from day one that my puppy was NOT going to be a big dog. His face is German Shepherd all the way -but- his body appears to be strongly favoring the Husky side. I have been trying to get an indication of his final size from the talks and discussions and the facts here on the Net. Only the Good Lord really knows. He has blest me with a wonderful dog ... again ... and I thank Him for the blessing. The Lord taught me a lot with, Tipper, my previous dog. -BUT- being the ignoramus that I am, I blew it on a lot of things. My only excuse, which is a poor one, was that I did not have enough time -OR- I just didn't take the time to handle her the way I should have. -BUT- she was a well mannered dog -AND- was good to everyone. Think I said it elsewhere, but I'll say it again... she became the "neighborhood's" dog and they all miss her. Hopefully, Dakotah will be able to fill in for her but he will never replace her.

But back to the original subject... size. He is 5 months old and stands at 18-19 inches. According to the chart below, which is for a GSD/Husky he is a little ahead in the growth rate. So, I may be wrong ... that he is NOT gona be big ... -but- I hope not. He still thinks he is a lap dog!!
Later: At 7½ months(October 3rd, 2015) he stands at 22-23 inches... and weighs in at 60 lbs.
Later: At 19+ months(October 9th, 2016) he now stands at 25 inches... and weighs in at 66.4 lbs.

Ht: 14 in. 17 in. 24 in. 67 in.

Here we have the comparison of the two three:      German-Shepherd-vs-Siberian-Husky  
       Siberian-Husky-vs-Gerberian-Shepsky    German-Shepherd-vs-Gerberian-Shepsky  
       Dog Breed Plus Info  


 July 23rd, 2015/2:41pm   Well, here we are 4 months later, with a 5 month old dog that some claim may have problems. The following is from:  cross-breed-dogs-raises-disturbing-questions   The part before this in the article talked about a breeder that sold some sick dogs. I just copied this portion cause it pertained to my lil' pup. I didn't know that there was this much trouble with the cross breeding. -But- what about all the mutts??? I mean either a dog is a purebred -or- he/she is a mutt... a mixed breed. We have dogs that are from multiple breeds. What about them??

The breeder is still selling dogs, but has since moved to Derbyshire. Campaigners have also raised concerns that puppy-farm dogs are being carelessly bred from two completely incompatible breeds, to cash in on rare mixes.

A prime example is the Gerberian Shepsky - a cross between a German shepherd and a Siberian husky - which is increasingly popular among the rich in search of an attractive guard dog.

'If you cross a dog that has one instinct, with another that has an entirely different instinct, it will not know if it is coming or going', says Caroline Kisko, secretary of the Kennel Club.

'It will develop mental health problems. The husky's instinct is to hunt and the German shepherd's instinct is to round animals up. If a cross of these sees a rabbit, which is it supposed to do?'

Interesting... cause I walk my GSD/Husky with a friend who has a German Shepherd and another that has a Cocker Spainiel. The Shepherd and the Spaniel chase the rabbits and my dog just looks on, so to speak. He does not chase the rabbits. Perhaps because he is only 5 months?? -But- the Shepherd IS chasing the rabbits. My previous dog was a German Shepherd/Bull Terrier mix and she chased the rabbits. So, we will have to wait and see...

 July 31st, 2015/7:56am   He chased his first rabbit today!!

 

 

Training and Care of a Gerberian Shepsky

As mentioned before, the German Shepherd Husky mix is a very intelligent and high energy mix of working dogs. Because of this pairing, it will be very important to provide lifelong obedience training and exercise.
October 9th, 2016 And it is now a year later. He knows some basic commands and we go for walks but he still comes to me looking for things to do. I just invested in two new books. Clicker Training and 101 Dog Tricks. Will have them by the end of the month.

The exercise should attend to both the dog's mental and physical abilities otherwise common behavioral issues can become apparent in your dog. Exercise can come in the form of frequent one hour walks each day, biking, swimming, and even dog sports. Some mental exercise can be experienced by letting them sniff on the walks.  Mental Stimulation & Exercise  

It is recommended that you become involved in a local obedience club that trains both beginning and advanced obedience. This kind of mental stimulation is both beneficial to your dog and to you because of the control will have over such a powerful and energetic hybrid.

Care is moderate and requires daily brushing to maintain the coat, which is prone to shedding due to both breeds coat type. With the ability of German Shepherd Husky mix to be a large dog, it is best that you feed a high quality dog food that is specially formulated for large breed dogs.

 Christmas Day, 2015 / 3:34am   I found this on the net while looking for Grooming with a Vacuum info. I felt that I needed to copy it and make it 'more' well known:

Dogs do not just detect odors better than we can. This sniffing "gaze" also gives them a very different experience of the world than our visual one gives us. One of Horowitz's most startling insights, for me, was how even a dog's sense of time differs from ours. For dogs, "smell tells time," she writes. "Perspective, scale and distance are, after a fashion, in olfaction - but olfaction is fleeting. . . . Odors are less strong over time, so strength indicates newness; weakness, age. The future is smelled on the breeze that brings air from the place you're headed." While we mainly look at the present, the dog's "olfactory window" onto the present is wider than our visual window, "including not just the scene currently happening, but also a snatch of the just-happened and the up-ahead. The present has a shadow of the past and a ring of the future about it." Now that's umwelt.
Inside of a Dog - What Dogs See, Smell, and Know
Here is the Gerberian Shepsky at a Glance
Average height 20 to 25 inches
Average weight 45 to 88 pounds
Coat type Double, short to long, straight
Hypoallergenic? No
Grooming Needs Moderate
Shedding Moderate to fairly high
Brushing At least twice a week if not daily
Touchiness Fairly sensitive
Tolerant to Solitude? Moderate - not for long periods of time
Barking Moderate to high
Tolerance to Heat Moderate - not extreme
Tolerance to Cold Very good to excellent
Good Family Pet? Very good
Good with Children? Very good with socialization
Good with other Dogs? Good to very good
Good with other Pets? Moderate to good, needs socialization
A roamer or Wanderer? Moderate
A Good Apartment Dweller? No
Good Pet for new Owner? Moderate to good - he has a stubborn streak
Trainability Very good to excellent
Exercise Needs Fairly high
Tendency to get Fat Moderate
Major Health Concerns Epilepsy, cancer, EPI, DM, blood disorders, Von Willebrand's, PRA, bloat
Other Health Concerns Eye problems, joint dysplasia, dwarfism, allergies, digestive issues and eczema.
Life Span 10 to 13 years
Average new Puppy Price $350 to $850
Average Annual Medical Expense $485 - $600
Average Annual Non-Medical Expense $930 - $1100

Copied from:  Gerberian Shepsky Intelligent and Obedient  

   

  Personality and Temperament

Can become over protective and Territorial.
Not inclined to become immediate friends with strangers.
Highly Intelligent... and obedient.
Well trained and socialized GSDs have rep of being very safe.
 Another Gerberian Shepsky link   It's important to note that these Shepherd -Husky mix dogs are active, powerful, working breeds that need a physical outlet for their energy. A minimum of one long daily walk should be anticipated as well as rigorous play and agility training to keep them happy, mentally alert, and out of mischief.

Personality traits of Shepherd-Husky mixes can be difficult to predict, as these dogs can have any percentage of the best (or worst) of either breed. It's important to be familiar with the traits of each breed and expect to see a range of both in each cross. For this reason, training mixed breeds can be a challenge, especially in the case of the  Shepherd-Husky  , which blends two very dominant and assertive breeds. Refer:  Training Shepherd-Husky Mix   and  GSD Temperament   This last one has some really interesting info and I wish that I had found it a long time ago. It is primarily about GSD's -but- I do believe that most of the info will apply to any dog.

 August 23rd, 2017  Well, I am here to tell you that I got a little of both in my Dakotah. In fact, we sent off for a  DNA test   and they reported that he is a 50/50 Designer Dog going back 3 generations on both sides. The real reason we had his DNA checked was to see how much wolf he had in him. Many people remark at how much he looks like a wolf. In fact, I was asked by a couple of different children if they could pet my wolf!! But in the report he did not have any wolf or other breeds in him. He is all Gerberian Shepsky.

The  Gerberian Shepsky   has an extremely gentle and calm temperament but is mostly feared because of its daunting muscular build. It can operate as both a pet and also as a working companion of humans to assist with various tasks. It is classified in the working and herding category of dogs. Being a pastoral type of dog, the Gerberian Shepsky possesses an uncanny ability to react to verbal commands and whistles, which is basically the reason as to why they are trained to herd. Their ability to be trained to a level of modified herding behavior is all tailored predatory behavior. Training minimizes the dog's innate proclivity to treat cattle and other domestic animals as prey while at the same time maintaining the animalistic hunting prowess, thereby creating an efficient hunting dog. Coming from dogs trained in the rugged wilderness and also recommended as a police dog, it goes without saying that this dog is brilliantly smart. Yep. I called him a "Genius" shortly after we got him.
Gerberian Shepsky' strength, obedience, trainability and intelligence makes it a perfect choice for many types of work such as acting, search and rescue police operations and even other important military roles. Gerberian are typically famous for their intelligence, a trait which appeals to most owners and breeders as a whole. They have the ability to learn simple tasks after a few repetitions and obey within the first given command more often than not. A characteristic they have borrowed from the German Shepherds. Together with their strength, these dogs are desirable as than other guards, search and rescue dogs as they are able to learn various tasks pretty much faster and also interpret instructions better and act faster than other large dog breeds.
They are extremely active dogs and very eager to learn and are usually highly purposeful. Their curious nature makes them excellent guards and scouts. If not rightly socialized, Gerberian Shepskies can be overly protective of their territory and family. It is good to note that, they are also not programmed to become immediate friends with strangers. I call it 'Stranger Danger'. I really prefer it this way. After all, we haven't been broken into yet -and- we think it was because of Tipper, our previous dog. She was our "door bell". They are also very faithful to their master and consequently, they also remain faithful and loving to their master's children too. They have an inclination of being quite voiced and bark a lot and especially when left on their own. They are also very kind but can be very aggressive and even hurt others in the event that their own or their master's security and well being is threatened. However, these dogs usually do not get along very well with cats and other dogs. In the event that the need may arise, socialization should take place at a very early stage. Well now, one of the reasons I got Dakotah so soon after Tipper passed was because of our cat. Tobi, the cat, was less than a year old when it happened and she and Tipper got along marvelously. Well, getting Dakotah so soon helped. It was not love at first sight but they played and rustled and tumbled. I do believe that we got Dakotah to early, he was only 5 weeks, but having Tobi to play with made up for his lost litter mates. They still play together.

My Dakotah also gets respect because, in his face, he looks like a German Shepherd and they get respect, and fear, from most people. But, he is for the most part a very loving dog. One of the reasons I picked him out of a liter of 9. The picture in the ad showed this Silver Grey bundle that I immediately fell in love with. Then when I picked him up, he put his head under my chin and cuddled. I had previously told my wife that IF a new puppy did that... I would take him. It is what my Tipper did all the way home from the pet shop when we first got her.

Now then, the above said, this dog is a combo of two different dogs. Even though they have a number of personality traits that are the same, they still have some that are different. Which will dominate remains to be seen. So far he is a friendly companion. But, I have noticed lately, some of the "Guard Dog" characteristics starting to surface(Oct 17th, 2015).


This is a loyal, intelligent and energetic dog who is also very social. His gentleness and loyalty make him a great family pet but his intelligence, strength and obedience make him a great work dog also. They can be used in a variety of roles including search and rescue, police work, military, acting, scouting, guard dogs and more. Training is highly successful with them. They can bark a lot though and howl particularly when left alone and they are wary of strangers. As mentioned there is usually a dominant side to them, he will be more like the Husky in temperament or lean towards the German Shepherd.

When he leans towards his Husky heritage a Gerberian Shepsky is loving, gentle and playful. They are loyal to their family unit but can be harder to house train due to their independent nature. Their owners need to be very firm and established as a strong pack leader. With early socialization they will not take their protective nature too far.

When he leans towards his German Shepherd heritage he is alert, energetic, playful and very spirited. He needs lots of exercise and can be difficult when that does not happen. They are very vocal and neighbors may complain that when you leave the house your dog howls a lot. They are intelligent and require activates that stimulate them mentally as well as physically.

Refer:  A Gerberian Shepsky  


-AND- at this time we also have the "Neutering Problem". I won't go into any greater detail here cause I have a section on that elsewhere on this page.  Neutering  However, I will say that it, as you probably already know, involves a "Cone of Shame". And that is exactly what my puppy thinks it is. I'm hoping that a lot of my 'training' is not lost during this time period. We are both a little incapacitated... at the same time!! However, my wife had one of her 'nightmares' and cried out just after we both had gotten settled in on the couch. Me with the lounge part out and him lying beside me on his back, relaxed, with all showing. We both got up and went into the master bedroom and he jumped up on the bed, cone and all, to check on her.


Below are some common behaviors dogs display when they believe they are above humans. Keep in mind that a dog does not have to display all of these behaviors to be in a dominant frame of mind. Sometimes an alpha dog will only display a few of the behaviors at random times, depending on what the dog decides it feels like doing at any given moment. Smarter dogs tend to challenge the pack order more than dogs of average or below-average intelligence.

  • Stubborn
  • Headstrong and willful
  • Demanding
  • Pushy
  • Begging
  • Pushing a toy into you or pawing in order to get you to play with them
  • Nudging you to be petted
  • Sitting in high places, looking down on everything
  • Guarding a human from others approaching. People like to call it "protecting" but it's actually "claiming"-dog owns you.
  • Barking or whining at humans which many owners consider "talking" (without a command to do so).
  • High-pitched screams in protest of something dog does not wish to do.
  • Jumping or putting their paws on humans (without a command to do so).
  • Persistence about being on a particular piece of furniture when asked to stay off (dog owns it)
  • Persistence about going in and out of doorways before humans
  • Persistence about walking in front of humans while on a lead
  • Persistence about getting through the doorway first
  • Refusing to walk on a lead (excludes untrained puppies, dogs with injuries or illnesses)
  • Nipping at people's heels when they are leaving (dog did not give permission to leave)
  • Not listening to known commands
  • Dislikes people touching their food
  • Standing proud on a human lap
  • Persistence about being on top, be it a lap or stepping on your foot
  • Persistence about where they sleep, i.e. on your pillow
  • Annoyance if disturbed while sleeping
  • Likes to sleep on top of their humans
  • Licking (giving kisses) in a determined and focused manner
  • Carrying themselves with a proud gait, head held high
  • Not liking to be left alone and getting overly excited upon the human's return
    (see  Separation Anxiety in Dogs  )

Refer:  Dominate Behaviors    Dog Personality Test  
 December 29th, 2015      =  Working on it and sometimes is OK.      =  Needs lots more work.
Now then, at this time my Puppy is only 10 months old. His trainer, me, has NOT been consistant enough in all his training. I hope to change that with the "New Advanced Class" that I just signed up for before Christmas.


For example, let's take a simple act of a hug. To humans, a hug means love and affection. When a human receives a welcomed hug from a loved one it makes us feel good inside.

But just what does a hug mean to a dog? Humans are always hugging their dogs and when we do, we are giving the dog affection and sharing our love. However, what most humans do not realize is to a dog, a hug is not affection at all. To a dog, a hug symbolizes a social status ranking as dominance and an invasion of space-lower members of the pack give space to the higher members to show respect. The position of the body is also meaningful to a dog. The one on top represents a higher status ranking. Therefore, when you bend down and wrap your arms around a dog you are not only on top, but you are in their space.

 September 11th, 2016/8:58am  Now then, a lot of the comments on this WebPage, I'm sure you are aware, come from "other" Articles on the Web. However, this one is from me. My Dakotah likes hugs. He also gives them to me by putting his head between my legs. That seems to be his favorite spot. Been that way since I got him, as evidenced by the picture up in the heading.

 December 6th, 2016   I need to add that when I come home from work he is all over me. I sit down to take my shoes off and he has to come over and bury his head in my arms. Makes it kinda hard to get your shoes off with a dog across your lap and his head under your arms.

Refer:  Speaking Dog  


 Hackles   October 16th, 2017   Had a problem with one of my "neighbors". She was afraid that my Dakotah and her dog were going to fight because she had NOT socialized her dog. Well, my Dakotah and her dog were NOT trying to fight... they were trying to play. The only one that was 'hyper' was the neighbor. I tried to explain to her that just because a dog's hackles are raised does NOT mean that they are in fight mode. That is NOT the most common reason.
Please read the following:
 The Function of a Dog's Hackles   and   What Does It Mean When My Dog's Hair Stands Up?  

   

  K9 Comment

I copied my comment from the K9 page cause I liked what I said and wanted to share it with others.

I own one now and according to a recent DNA test he is 50/50 for 3 generations back on both sides. At times he exhibits the traits of a GSD and at other times that of the Husky. However, he did NOT inherit the "Escape Artist" characteristic of the Husky. He will, and has, come home before running off anywhere else.

My Dakotah is 25 inches at the shoulder and weighs in at 70 pounds. Health wise, we have only had problems when he got neutered and just recently a surface allergy. For the most part he eats well -but- can be picky.

He is loyal but will "wander" off when we are out in the wild. Looking for rabbits and other small creatures to chase. He has caught both rabbits and birds - and devoured them. Mostly, he wants to be where I am. He will follow me from room to room in the house and he will wait for me on the trail. The room to room doesn't necessarily happen immediately. Sometimes it just depends on how long I take to get back.

Along those lines and the Guard or Friendl... he is both. He doesn't accept strangers readily unless they are children, and then I have to be careful on some of those. But if he knows you he can be a handful. He wants to be with some of the neighbors whether they want him or not.

He is, as of this date, Aug 23rd, 2017, two and a half years old. He has begun to "snuggle" more now than before. It's not really a snuggle cause it is still to hot. We live in Phoenix. What am I doing with a Gerberian Shepsky in hot Phoenix??? Well, it was where he was born. I have had him since he was 5 and a half weeks old. Probably got him to soon but that is another story. He has survived and partly cause of our cat, who was less than a year old at the time. They played together - and still do.

As for the Grooming... you need to be prepared for the twice a year "blow out". That is when they blow their lower coat to change seasons. You could stuff a pillow, or two, with the fur that comes off then.

His eyes... they are a warm, cute, friendly and beautiful pair of brown eyes. His fur is Sable and he has grown up to look a lot like a wolf. In fact I have had children ask if they could pet my wolf.

Refer:  Gerberian Shepsky 101  

   

  What to expect

Now then, I copied, and edited this from:  German Shepherd Husky Mix:Traits - Complete Guide in 2017  

5. What to Expect from a German Shepherd Husky Mix?

When you fall in love with the white Sable German Shepherd Husky mix pup, take a deep breath and remove those rose-tinted glasses. The one I fell in love with started out as the cutest 5½ week old Silver Gray ball of fur. He changed colors so much whilst growing up, and even now depwnding on the lighting, that I called him my Chameleon Dog. He finished out a Sable color. Sable: Black-tipped hairs; the rest of the hair can be gold to yellow, silver, grey, or tan. The darkness of the coat depends on how much of each hair is black versus the lighter color. Totally clear sables might only have black in their whiskers.  GSD Color Genetics  

Look at what the two breeds have in common and you begin to build up a picture of what might lie in store.

Both breeds are high energy and require lots of exercise. YES They do!! I did not realize how much. At least on this one. Mine seems to be an extremely High Energy Dog -BUT- he has kept me going and since I have had him I have gone from 212lbs to 177lbs plus or minus. Also made my heart Doctor happy.

Both are intelligent dogs, but whereas the German shepherd is trainable, the Husky is more likely to use their wits to their own end. Well, they say you get one -or- the other prominent. Not my Dakotah. As I read their descriptions and behaviors on the net I see 'both' in my Dakotah. He is smart and I have had success in training him(GSD)... most of the time(Husky).

A German Shepherd Husky mix full grown can be quite a handful.Yes, but a joyful one.

Bred for their vulpine looks, many owners of Siberian shepherds admit that any wolf-like character traits are not so much the call of the wild, but down to the Husky's indomitable character.
You may well end up with a dog that is strong, muscular, and energetic but has an inbuilt programming to escape.
That six-foot fence is not enough to contain a German shepherd husky mix and he's highly likely to escape and go wandering.
Not only is he a risk to himself should he stray onto a road, but they are often destructive dogs that love to dig and chew.
This could land you in hot water with damage to a neighbor's property, so insurance is definitely a must.
Well, I lucked out and my Dakotah did not inherit that 'feature'. In fact there has been a couple of times when we were out in the wild and he got chased by some unruly dogs. He ran home -and- opened the door himself!! When I let him off leash he does NOT run away -but- he loves to run.

Another element to consider is the German shepherd trait for anxiety combined with the husky's dislike of solitude.

This could land you with a puppy with severe behavioral difficulties that howls and barks constantly when not in your company.

Takes some thinking about, doesn't it?


   

  The Phoenix Heat & Tools

Now then, there are all kinds of opinions and facts about having a Husky in Phoenix. Mine doesn't have to adapt ... he was born here!! However, I do believe that precautions still need to be taken to ensure his comfort. Just as much as mine or my wife's. My previous dog was a German Shepherd/Bull Terrier mix. She made it -but- she was happiest when it was cold!! Just like I presume my new Husky/German Shepherd will. On top of that ... we have a pool in our back yard. It has hampered the potty training in the respect that, I won't let him in the backyard 'Un-supervised' because of the pool. Therefore, learning to use the 'Doggy Door' will be delayed.
Note: I have since learned that you don't want your dog in the pool in the first place. The Chlorine is NOT good to them. It really isn't good for humans either but it is the lesser of the two evils for swimming... I think.

As for the 'Doggy Door', I am assuming that he will learn it just like our present and previous cats did. They watched our dog, Tipper, go in and out. They both decided that they could do that... and they did. Since Dakotah and our cat are getting along and playing, I assume that he will learn from the cat. Interesting switch... cats learn from dog and now, possibly, dog will learn from cat. Need to mention that he is only 8 ½ weeks old at this time.

Now then, in searching the Web, the following was what I, and numerous others, considered the best answer:

Best Answer:

I live in Phoenix, Arizona and own wolves and wolf hybrids, some mixed with Malamute. A neighbor has two huskies. They all prefer to be outdoors. I used to bring mine in until they broke out of steel kennels and tore through a steel door to get outside. Over $1800 worth of damage? Yeah, now I just buy a few kiddie pools for $20 each. They're happy as clams and get in when they need to cool off. My neighbor has a pool and his just jump in for a quick swim when they're hot. They're left out all summer and I've never had one of mine (or has his) suffer from or die from heat stroke.

As long as they have shade, plenty of clean water (kept in the shade so it stays as cool as possible) and have some water to get into (the pool must be large enough for them to lie down in), dogs will be fine. Of course that's not including short nose breeds (Bulldogs, boxers etc...), delicate breeds, hairless breeds (yes, they'll get sunburned badly) or dogs unused to the heat. You can't take a dog that's been indoors in 75F all summer long and throw them out into 115F heat. They don't know what to do if they get hot, what to do to stay cool and will panic which raises their body temperature and makes them pant more, dehydrating them faster. A dog unused to the heat can die in 15 minutes.

Every winter they'll grow a thick undercoat and as soon as it starts to get warm they'll "blow" their undercoat. They'll loose the insulating undercoat in big clumps. My backyard looks like it's snowed when mine do.

If yours will only be outside during potty breaks, you have nothing to worry about.

Refer:  Yahoo Answers

 May 15th, 2015   Now then, in response to the above, my Puppy has found the "Sprinklers"!! At ten weeks, now 11, we started watering the yard... again. He found the sprinklers fascinating. Such excitement for all of us. There is one just outside our patio door and we got to watch him literally stand right over it and try to 'catch' the water streams. We installed those Toro Stream Rotors. I liked the way they looked -and- they work well. Now they are something for my Puppy to play in.

 Ways to keep cool in Phoenix...   In the top still pic Dakotah is enjoying the sprinklers at the park with Kiko. The two vids are him enjoying sprinklers at home and his own tub.

June 1st, 2015 June 24th, 2015

  Yes the pic below is in here twice for a reason... I want everyone to take notice.

On hot summer days, walk your dogs before 9 a.m. or after 8 p.m. - or walk them only in shady or grassy/dirt areas.
Refer:  38 Unexpectedly Brilliant Tips For Dog Owners  

Fans for cooling anyone?? We have two floor fans running constantly. Originally for us humans -but- Dakotah discovered them and figured out how to get cool. He comes in and drops in front of the one by the front door when we come in from our walks. His "cage" used to be the bathroom shower but now it is out here between the chair and the door -or- on the other side of the wall under the kitchen table and chair.(other fan is in the family room)



 August 13th, 2015   A water bottle!! Yes, I got one, in fact two early in this -but- don't think that I mentioned them. They were both, what I will call, the "Flip Kind". The bottle closes into the 'tray' that is used to dispense the water. Trouble is... you can not get it back into the bottle. Therefore, a lot of water gets wasted. One of the two people that I walk the dogs with has a bottle that goes by the name "Water Rover" and I purchased one. Described below:

Pets Need Water, especially when they're away from home running, walking or playing in the sun. Water Rover Makes it Easy for responsible pet owners to take water with them wherever they go. With its durable, lightweight water bowl and attached bottle, Water Rover is
  • Hands-Free - Clips to belt or waist band
  • Leak-Free - Even when held upside down
  • Waste-Free - Extra water tips back into the bottle
  • Hassle-Free - Wide mouth bottle is easy to fill with water and ice
  • Sizes - The 15oz bottle has a 4" tray and the 26oz has a 5¼" tray. (a 4" version is available)
   Water Rover is Simple to Use. When your pet is thirsty, just unplug the bottle, lay the Water Rover flat on the ground, and the water will automatically flow into the round bowl. When your pet is through drinking, tip the extra water back into the bottle, replace the plug, and clip the Water Rover back onto your belt or waistband.
   
Great for Pet Outings, Perfect for Pet Travel. Pet owners often underestimate how much water their pets need - don't let them dehydrate! Take Water Rover along whenever you and your pet leave home - walks, jogs, picnics, trips to the beach, road trips, vacations, etc. - to ensure your pet always has fresh water available.
Refer:  Hooves & Paws   on eBay... for the best price.   Manufacturer Site:  Water Rover  

In the images below, the picture that I grabbed for the flip kind shows a hook for connecting to your trousers or belt. Mine does not have that, so I still have to carry it. Notice the "cap" for the flip kind is only a squirter. No way to put water back in. Well, you could 'snap' the bottle out of the tray, unscrew the cap and try to pour the contents of the tray back into the bottle, which I did and still wasted a lot of water. The other bottle, the Rover, as stated above allows you to tilt the bottle back upright and let the water drain back in. No muss no fuss.

           
The Flip Kind

Water rover

Now then, I purchased this "larger" bottle because I got tired of carrying two bottles of water. One was a Dasani bottle with just water. Why did I carry two?? Cause one of my walking partners went through a lot of water... and she had the flip kind. And ... well, don't ask. In "sharing" my water with the other two, the partner that had the "Rover" bottle helped me save a lot of the water. I would pour the overage in her tray and then she would just tilt the bottle back to save our precious water. She has the smaller 15oz. version with a 4 inch tray.
Later: September 26th, 2015 - Well, I do believe that we need a water truck!! Went thru 4 bottles of water this morning, and mine was the 26oz varity plus I was carrying my 8oz Dasani bottle. A water dilemma. Somewhat solved with an empty 1.75L(59oz) Vodka bottle. Besides making conversation it did extend our water supply nicely. I found that my Orange Juice bottle was the same quantity. I use it now rather than the Vodka one. Joke/fun is over with the spirits bottle.
Well, we had another problem. The stoppers wore out. The plastic flap hinge broke and then the ring around stopper broke out. This was fixed by a trip to Home Depot. Purchased some rubber stoppers and some little screw eyes. Got two sizes: (15/16 in X 11/16 in) and (1 in X 25/32 in). The screw eyes were screwed into the stoppers and attached to the bottle lids with sting wire. Made three of them. One for meself and one for each of my dog walking partners.

            The large 5¼ size allows my puppy, Dakotah, and Jeff's puppy,Tomodachi, to drink at the same time. They are only 2 weeks apart in age.
            This is a contraption that my wife introduced me to. She had “house sat” for a friend a few years back and they had one for their dogs. The red part is a float and will keep the bowl full. In fact my Dakotah likes to 'play' in the water cause it also causes a spray. Not sure it is supposed to do that but he enjoys it ... so why not.?


 The Morning Walks - September 25th, 2015   Walking in the morning before it gets hot can get pretty dark. That is cause of work schedules we must go really early. Therefore, we need some lite to see. We take our dogs to the "West 40". It is a desert region next to our housing development. We are able to let our dogs run "free" and enjoy their walk. They chase each other and run thru the brush and chase rabbits. However, we humans can not see as well as they do and we need lights. Plus on the way there and on the way from we need to possibly clean up after them. This requires lite... and a third hand. So I investigated into a "hat lite". Found the following. A two pack for only $6.88 plus free shipping:  Amazon  

2 Pack 6 LED CAP LIGHT Under the Brim Cap Hat Light w/ 4 Functions & 2 Battery sets

  • 4 LED Illumination modes: 2 LED, 4 LED, 6 LED & Flash Mode
  • Great for Night Fishing/Camping, Hunting/Tracking, Mechanical work, and much more
  • Lightweight, Compact, and made to take plenty of rugged treatment
  • Powered by lithium coin cell batteries (included)
  • 2 Pack

Well, I should have read the write-ups BEFORE I ordered the lites. Seems that they are NOT bright enough for walking UNLESS you are two feet from the ground. Course that was only one opinion -but- he was pretty strong about it. I was wondering how strong these things would be. -BUT- the reason I wanted the head lamp in the first place was to have a 'third hand' when giving the dogs a drink -or- cleaning up their 'doo-doos'. So IF they are good for at least two or three feet then they should work for me. For the 'walking' part I can use a normal flashlight. And as they say, "You only get what you pay for.".
I saw a 1000 foot beam adverstised for $19.99. One of the reviewers said that he could see 15-20ft in the dark. We have some mornings that are very dark!!  Miracle Beam 1000ft   -But- we'll see how these "lesser expensive" ones work in combo with my small flashlight, which fits nicely into one of the end compartments in my new treat pouch.

 October 7th, 2015   Got the Lite's this afternoon. Didn't get a good test yet -but- they are better than the one reviewer claimed. Just the two LED lite mode provided enough lite for me to see. This was on a fairly dark part of our "around the block" walk even though there were street lights. Dakotah gets 'neutered' tomorrow so there will not be a desert walk for over a week. However, the lites got here faster than they said they would. Their forecast was for between Oct 22nd to Nov 6th.

Refer:  Lazer Bond    Bondic   These two items are for "repairs". Both of the clips on one of my lites got broken. Have the choice of ordering more or getting one of these glues to fix it. Think getting new ones is less expensive.



 September 25th, 2015   RAPID REWARDS TRAINING POUCH - RED
Got a new treat bag. The belt clip broke off on the other and it was really to small. This new one is bigger and has rounded battom corners. It is easier to get the treats out. I am looking for as much convienence in caring for my dog as possible. This bag is large, but not too large, to fit the bill. As I wore it for the first time, I felt that I had ready access to the treats and it held my LED Flashlight along with waste bags. It readily cliped to the end of my belt with strong griping power. Yes the end, the excess part after you've buckled it up. I needed room for my Rover Water Bottle and my Cell Phone. I do not trust the saftey of my phone to any case but its own. However, the weight of the treat bag caused it to pull the belt end out of my pants loop and dangle slightly -but-, it stayed on the belt... a wide leather belt. I've only used it once and I am very happy with it.

Now then, the size of the pouch is just right to fit in a "Blue Buffalo" Wilderness Treat Bag. These are resealable bags that can hold the "speacial" treats. That has been a concern of mine over these months of owning Dakotah. The special treats are normally soft and moist. A need to carry them sealed was required. This pouch fits the bill. I can reuse the Wilderness Bags for other treats after the originals are gone. Besides, more than one Widerness Bag will fit, so we can have a little variety.

Refer:  Dogwise.com  

Features include:  
  • Magnetic closure with cord pull for quick open/close operation
    The large "Cord Pull" was NOT on my bag. Just a little loop.
  • Roomy main compartment, ergonomically shaped, with gray interior lining for better visibility
  • Inside jackpot pocket (5.5" W x 3.25" H) with velcro closure to store high value treats or separate any item you want in the main pocket
  • Two side pockets with a waste-bag dispenser feature (one side only), fits clickers, small leads and more
  •  Zippered back compartment is roomy enough for cell phones, keys, credit cards and more
  • Belt clip and belt loops allow you to choose multiple ways to wear your pouch (belt not included)
  • D-ring attachments let you attach gear with carabiners, snaps and more
  • Roomy front pocket with velcro closure
  • Made of durable 600 denier polyester ("backpack") material
  • Size is 5.75"L x 6.75"H x 2.75"D.

 December 29th, 2015   RAPID REWARDS TRAINING POUCH - PURPLE
 Needed a second pouch for the "Advanced Training". Want to keep the "Special Treats" separate from the "Regualar or Ordinary" treats. Leastwise that is what they all 'hint' at.


 January 4th, 2016/6:44am   TEK GEAR LINED GLOVES
My first entry for this new year and it is about "Gloves"!! What do gloves have to do with the Phoenix heat?? Well... believe it or not, it does get cold here in the winter. The hat lites above were because of the "early" morning walks and so are the gloves. At 4am in the morning we can have temps as cold as 32°. That gets the fingers cold!! After purchasing a "cheap" pair at Walmart, that did NOT keep my fingers warm, I went to Kohl's and with the help of some very nice, and courteous attendants, found these:

The ones that I purchased were of the Greyish color, called 'Forged Iron'... and after saying that I found their image on the Net!


 December 26th, 2016/7:22pm   Isotoner smarTouch & 180s Down Ear Warmers
Got another pair of gloves for Christmas and another set of ear muffs that I forgot to mention before. These were gifts from my son.





 September 14th, 2016/7:22pm   Skudo Travel Carrier
36" Skudo Travel Carrier - Model Number: 1436SG -
Size: (36.25 L x 24.875 W x 27.25 H ") -
Weight:18.5lbs - UPC: 027773018292

This carrier looked interesting when I saw it in one of Zak George's videos. I have not yet purchased one -but- IF I need a carrier I think I will get one of these. I am referencing one on E-Bay which was at the lowest price of $117.81 with only one left so... I doubt that it will still be there when I need one. May not be there when we click on the image to view it. Anyway, in searching the Web for info on it I saw a picture of one with a Lab laying out the door. He/she looked to be the same size as my Dakotah so I believe this carrier, which is their largest, will be adequate for a trip.

   

  Potty Training

Moved the following paragraph to here in its own section cause... this "Potty Training" was/is a little more than I thought -or- expected. And now later, June 29th, 2015, I found this -and- it sums up what I've read already -and- it makes sense:  Quick and Dirty Tips . Now then, I 'thought' that I had been doing that -but- one of her 'other' tips made me realize that I had been missing an important, very important point. Praise - praise out of the blue for something, almost anything, that he has been doing 'right'! Something that I said at the top of this page... TIME ... you need to take time. I just yesterday complained to my wife about this being a 24hr job. I do believe that it will be in the beginning. I'm telling myself this as much, if not more, than to anyone reading this. Not so sure that this was fair to my new Puppy. My wife and I are 68 and I'm soon to be 69. Neither one of us are in good health. My previous dog suffered from the 'normal' old age pains -and- she became blind. Therefore, she was NOT all that active. Loved her morning walk but just more or less laid around the rest of the day. I had 'forgotten' how much attention a younger dog needs. We never move things around so even though she was blind, my Tipper could still get around -and- go out the doggy door -and- find her way back in. She had lived here for 14½ years!!

 Potty Training  Everybody has their own ideas on this. Main thing is time. Yours. You must check on the Pup and take him/her to the potty area at least every two hours... that includes over-night. I, personally, have had better success by doing this... except for peeing. He seems to think everywhere is his potty for peeing!! Haven't discovered the difference... yet. Oh yes, I know, one is solid and one is liquid. Well, at this time, the solid is not all that solid. Quite loose. Checking on the Net reveals that Pumpkin, pure pumpkin, NOT pie filling, will help.
 Firm Up His/Her Stool    House Training  
How-some-ever, my Vet gave me 'the look' when I mentioned the "Pumpkin" thing. In fact, he said what he likes about the Internet is the business it brings him. ie; after people try all, or some, of that stuff, they then come to see him to get proper, or correct, treatment.

Ok, further research has shown that "I" am at fault -and- "I" did NOT understand everything. Dogs are Den animals and they by nature, won't soil their Den... UNLESS they are totally confined and there is no choice! My puppy as two Dens. The hall bathroom and the shower in the master bath. We did NOT confine him to either. He just picked them, I think, cause they are the coolest part of the house --- duh... Phoenix... Husky/Shepherd.

Anywho, we have decided that one of the bathrooms will be his confined area when we are gone and the rest of the time we will watch. And that is going to be interesting. I have taken him outside to do his business and he will walk around and sit around and do nothing. Take him back in the house and he will almost immediately pee!! We are planning to get the carpets thoroughly cleaned after he is house broke -but- I'm beginning to think that we may have to do it before to eliminate the attraction to go in the house.

 10 Weeks - May 6, 2015 Finally decided to show him how to use the Doggie Door. Directed him in and out a couple of times and then later put him out and closed the door. Little while later he was back in the house -- he used the Doggie Door! And a side note, he can finally jump up on the family room couch. It is lower than the one in the living room. Accidents are getting less.
 Potty Train a Puppy the Easy Way  

 11 weeks - May 14th, 2015  He is now 11 weeks old and today he received his 2nd set of shots. We were outside a lot working in the yard and he was "helping". He became a bit of a bother to our daughter and I put him in his den. He went to sleep almost immediately. Then when he got up I took him out in the back yard. He tried to go back in the house but I got him and closed the door. We stayed in the back for a good while. He sat and laid around. I tried to move around a bit to get him stimulated. Nothing. So, I went back in the house and he with me. He went straight to the end of the family room and started peeing. I grabbed him and took him outside. Probably a little more forcefully than I should but damn... it is getting out of hand. We take him out to do his business and he does nothing. Bring him back in and he almost immediately will pee... somewhere. It is like he is being defiant. His training will get stricter. I have read all these be 'Mister Nice Guy' articles and Web Sites. I wanted to be 'nice' -but- that is NOT working. I will NOT beat upon the dog or get drastic but I will get a lot firmer. "Light discipline" is needed and will be used.

 12½ weeks - May 25th, 2015   Potty Training!!! Potty Training!! It can be... and is ... very trying.   Traing Pads  
 House Training without a crate   -- Good or Bad.?.?

 June 21st, 2015  Found this at:  VetinaryPartner.com   When treating the area before the urine has started to dry, undiluted clear vinegar will neutralize the odor and discourage the dog from urinating there again for a little while. It may also discourage the dog from sleeping there temporarily, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. You may need to remove the bed for a time anyway, to avoid the dog forming or continuing the habit of urinating on it.
Well, this only partially worked. Circumstances are not the same as what was described by the author. That's all I'll say for now.

 May 27, 2015 - To Crate or NOT to crate??   Personally... I do NOT want to crate my dog!! One of the reasons is:

Simply fulfilling the minimum requirements for height, width, and length is the way to go,
so that the pup is obliged to hold its urine and feces for fear of soiling the area in which
it stands. Keeping the nest clean is a natural behavior for pups. However, if thoughtless
humans confine the pup for too long this natural tendency will be overcome. The latter
situation is NOT a puppy problem or crate problem, it is an owner problem. 

The above was taken from:  Petplace.com . They have a lot of good points in this article for using a crate -and- how to do it properly. But, I have Vascular Dementia and I am forgetful. Yeah... and I am still writing all this. That is why it changes so much. The dementia is not so bad that I can't function -BUT- I do forget -AND- can get easily side-tracked. Wife says it is getting worse ... not better. I am "theoretically" retired -but- because of previous financial problems, -AND- medical bills, I work "Part Time" at a local McDonalds. Since I am retired I "volunteered" to be somewhat on call. That was a mistake. My part time job has become almost full time. Another reason for NOT using the crate. I don't have a "regular" schedule.

However, there is some light at the end of the tunnel. As already stated, I live in Phoenix. The "Snow Birds" have either left -or- are leaving soon. I may get less hours. Means less money -but- I already paid for Dakotah. -AND- with less money it means more time at home with the dog. Can't afford to go anywhere.

 August 22nd, 2016 More on crates Got an email from one of the places I visit for dog info. In it was a reference to this:  Why I don't believe in crate training   This person said most of the things that I want to say about crates. I didn't even use one for potty training... although there were times that I will admit... I kinda wished that I had used a crate. -BUT- I didn't and he has developed into a gentle and playfull doggie. Almost like my Tipper... who also was not crate trained.
I tried to make this stand out because... this can be, and is, a heated topic. The article I referenced has many comments that are as good to read as the article itself. IMHO(In My Humble Opinion), crates are not needed. -BUT- you have to be willing to put up with the doggie messes during the first 15 to 20 weeks of his/her's life!! -AND- you must take/have the time to train him/her in proper etiquette. Dogs can be trained, -and- can learn, to put up with almost anything... even cruelty. I will not even suggest that my way of training was good or correct. All I can say is that I finally got him house broke and he will come when called most of the time now -and- sometimes even on his own!! (referring to the re-hook up times after our walk in the desert)

 June 2nd, 2015  Screw the Positive training. My carpets are ruined and he still goes inside. Fourteen weeks tomorrow. War has been declared. No training pads, we have a doggie door which he knows how to use -AND- the back Patio Door has been open almost all the time for the last month. He will NOT pee in the house anymore!! Well... yes he will. When I'm not there!! I had to work and my wife is ill. I just don't understand. He is taken out for a walk... then off the leash for 20 to 30 minutes... does NOT "go potty" of any kind UNTIL back in the house and then almost immediately he pees!! -BUT- at times AFTER the walk he will rush out the Patio door -or- the doggie door and go pee!!! Go figure??!!?

 June 3rd/4th/5th, 2015 pm/am   Now at 14 weeks, we are starting to see some progress. -ALL- of the "puppy training" pads have been remove. Due to my schedule I have had more time at home with the pup. He seems to be getting the idea that he must go outside for BOTH types of potty. One time he was on his way to the doggie door and I accidentally interrupted him and offered the patio door... which was closed at the time. Shortly after going out the door he relieved himself! We are also making progress on telling him, "Go potty", and he will go pee! Thank you Lord.

Now then, this part may be repeated but I gota mention it here cause it is part of this... a long retractable leash. A Dr. Becker at  Why He Doesn't Recommed Retractable Leashes   A number of his 'reasons' apply to shorter leashes -and- no leash at all. At the Park, be it a regular dog park -or- just a regular park, you can encounter ALL of these situations. And as for the dog running to the end of the leash and getting hurt... that can, and does happen on short fixed leashes. I have become a strong ANTI-collar advocate. Just look, and listen, at/to your dog when he/she pulls on the leash. That gagging is because they are... gagging. So many things in life we learn by example and do not question them. But... question this one. Who ever determined that a dog's neck was strong enough to not be hurt or injured by collar restraint?? I have become a staunch supporter of the Harness world. But even the Harness has to be used and handled properly.

Later: July 17th, 2015 - 20 weeks Now that I have shot off my mouth on the pro's and con's of collars/leashes, I have to swallow most of it!! You can't use a Harness IF the dog will not let you put it on him/her! I got asked by one of my fellow dog walkers.. "Who's training who??" Well, I guess that Dakotah is training me. I gave up on chasing him to put on the Harness shortly after, a week or so, I said the above. But now he is even starting to resist being attached to the leash. Think I should NOT have given up on the Harness -but- now it is to small and purchasing another at this time is out of the financial possibilities. Primarily cause my better half won't let me spend the money IF he won't wear it. Which stands to reason -but- like my fellow dog walker says, "Who's training who??" At present, he wins ... we are collar walking. What we really need to work on is:
       "Proper Leash Manners"  .
and  Truth about Leash Corrections   Then he won't be straining on the leash.

 October 14th, 2015 Long Leash  Well, we already changed the subject earlier in this and now to retract some of our statements... again... we are adding this. Didn't want one of those long "Tow Rope" type leashes cause I thought that they would be a pain. They are... -but- they are better, safer and more practical for the 'Come' or 'Recal' training. I'm bull headed and have to learn the hard way. I purchased one of the 50 ft ones from Amazon today. It won't be here till the 1st part of November but, my puppy is ill right now anyway. Got him neutered and it did NOT go well. Please check the  Neutering   Section.

-AND- AFTER all this progress we get a Thunderstorm!!! On the 5th... He hasn't peed in the house yet... but he did poo outside the doggie door on the welcome mat. He's done that before and I caught him a couple of times and said 'No' -but- how would you like to squat in the rain and do your dump?? So we overlook this time. Then we placed "Training Pads" back in the strategic places. So far they are still dry... but it is only 5:29am. It was dry at 5 when we awoke. Surprise -and- proud, he doesn't seem to fear the thunder. We were out on the back patio together and he was ok with it. This was at the start of the rain when there was a spot, covered by our overhang and a tree, that was fairly dry. But no, he evidently did not have to go.

 June 6th, 2015  All my braggin' and 'proud-ness' ... GONE. He did his pottying both ... in and out!! Price you pay for refusing to use a cage.
And now, June 16th, he seems to have claimed the "Hobby Room" as his urinal. The "Doggie Door" is in the Hobby Room patio door. For some reason he doesn't always go all the way and go 'out' the door. He will pee in the aile way on the way to it!! Just like at times he will stand in front of an 'open' Family Room Patio Door and pee!! In fact he has come in, from the outside, through the Family Room door, went around the corner to the Hobby Room aile way... and peed!!! I'm really not sure how to correct this. I try to take him out side at regular intervals and after he wakes from his naps. But still have these problems. He is still pooing outside ... but peeing is still both... out -and- in!!

 June 18th, 2015  Problems have developed with the Harness. He won't let me put it on him!! He runs away. Only way we can go for a walk is the collar. Today he got his last set of the "Puppy Shots" and in talking to the Vet... he said he uses a collar for his dog... So, there ya go.

 June 27th, 2015 - 17½ weeks   Hurray!! He is finally house broke!!! He now does BOTH outside. -AND he either uses the doggie door -or- asks to go outside by barking and/or standing in front of the door. Now then, I had tried all of the things -except- the cage. What it took was time, time and time -and- a couple of harsh times.

 July 24th, 2015 - 1st Leg Lift?   Whilst walking with Sarah and Sundance... Dakotah saw Sundance lift his leg and go on a bush. Dakotah then walked over to the bush and almost lifted his leg... it was like a "Should I do this or not???" He didn't -but- the thought and slight movement was there. This was the first time he did anything like this. Kinda cute in a way.

   

  Info and Play

 Sleeping Quarters  It just so happens that our laundry was overflowed when we got the little critter. In this one week we lost our long time "friend";, Tipper (dog); the washing machine broke; and I had to have polyp surgery. So, the Pup had his choice. Wife's silkies or my jeans. He swapped between the two. The laundry at night and the tile bathroom floor in the daytime, when it was warmer, were/are his sleeping spots at this time. Well, he does nap on the laundry some during the day. Not to sure what he is gona do when we get the new washer going...

 Ball Chasing  Pretty smart puppy. During his 6th week I could get him to chase a ball and bring it back... two times at a sit. Now here at the start of his 7th week we are up to three!! Granted it is only 3 feet -but- he has the concept. I throw the ball and he chases it -and- brings it back!!
 At 16 weeks   Well, we are finally up to chasing a number of his other toys. -And- he returns them... a number of times. In fact I usually have to decide to quit -and- even then he wants to continue. -BUT- this is ALL in the house. Still does NOT chase and return outside.
 At 19½ weeks  Met with one of my neighbors at the park. He has a Heeler. He says that he has not socialized with his dog enough -but- the dog 'loves' to chase and catch a frizbe. So, we got a training exchange going. Dakotah and I would work on Chloe for socializing and Matt and Chloe would work on Dakotah for frizbe chasing. First day, July 11th, 2015, Dakotah ran with Chloe chasing the frizbe -but- did not catch it or pick it up and bring it back. He stood on it once and sniffed at it like he was gona pick it up, but never did. -But- it was a start. Chloe was showing him what to do.

 April 27th, 2015   Wierd behavior, or at least different. I was always under the impression that dogs like to have grass under them when they had to pee or poo. Not necessarily the case. We have a window seat in front of our house and in front of it we have a brick paved area. Dakotah uses it for a bathroom... pooing. -But- my wife has noticed that he does not like to get to far away from the house when it gets dark. He is, after all, only 8 ½ weeks old.

 April 28th, 2015  Yeah, it is only the next day -but- something that both my wife and I have noticed here in the last couple of days. He is using his paws more to hold his chew stick(s). He is learning ... and so am I.

 Walks / Boredom  In a number of the articles that I have read they keep saying, "Take your Husky for a walk 2 or 3 times a day." This will eliminate boredom and consequently remove his/her tendency for destruction. Well, that is all well and good, -but- my Vet highly recomended to NOT take him for any walks until he gets all his shots. At this particular time there are a high number of  parvo  cases in the Valley of the Sun. Shots won't be finished till June 17th, 2015!!  Parvo FAQ's  
 Ways to Stop Dog from Digging  is referenced here along with  Dog Freedom No Pull Harness   cause they both are involved with walking. The first is what brought about this paragraph and the second cause I don't like "choke" collars -or- ones that the animal can slip out of. My previous dog, Tipper, kept her puppy head. She was cute -and- could slip out of every collar 'except' the choke one. I, for some reason, never thought about a harness for her. However, in going over the many things I did wrong with my beloved Tipper, the concept of using a harness instead of a 'choke chain' came to my mind. In my own defence, most of the time Tipper was NOT hooked to the collar/leash anyway. When we went for our walks in the morning I let her walk freely and she kept me in sight at all times. The walk was mainly for her and investigating the smells was the big thing... reading her newspaper. Just walking along on a sidewalk was NOT interesting to either of us. Consequently, she became a neighborhood dog. They all knew her and loved her. Hopefully Dakotah will become the same.
 Collar vs Harness  
 July 17th, 2015/8:01am -20 weeks  Went for our walk around the block and at the end saw the neighbors at the park. We joined them and my dog went crazy in the water... water puddles. He likes water. -But- whilst there one of the neighbors 'proudly' demonstrated the 'new' choke collar she got for her dog, a German Shepherd. The other neighbor praised her and said you really need one of those to control your dog. He is big and powerful and you need that to control him. After all that I have read -and- experienced I winced... -but- kept my mouth shut. I am getting back on the Harness wagon even though Dakotah got to the point that he would not let me put it on him. Again, after reading all the stuff on the web I believe that was my fault -and- the Harness type... which is now to small anywho. I'm going to try again, this time with a  Ruffwear Front Range Harness . I do believe that it will be better... -AND- follow the advice at:
 How to Train your Dog to Stop Pulling on Leash   and at:  Best Harness for a Shepherd  

Imitates the cat. My cat dog. May 16th, 2015 - 1st trip to park, no one there. May 18th, 2015 - 2nd trip to park, met Sarah and Julie with their dogs.

April 29th, 2015 May 8th, 2015

 Bragging Time - May 31st, 2015 in am   At 13½ weeks we went to the Park again. Been there a few times, both in am and pm. Can not go in the middle part of the day cause the side-walks and roadways are to hot. I am ashamed to say that I burned my previous dog's, Tipper, feet. Hey, I didn't feel anything... I was wearing shoes!!! This was in a Safeway Parking lot. -And- she was trying to obey me for heeling!!! My wife noticed the problem after we were home.   Later... in that same parking lot I had to get down on one knee to look under my truck. IT BURNED ME THRU MY JEANS!! OK, NOT what I wanted to brag about -BUT- IF it saves one more dog's feet... then my mission is accomplished.

  Yes the above pic is in here twice for a reason... I want everyone to take notice.

Now to the brag. Today on our Park trip I decided to take a chance. I let Dakotah off the leash. He stayed close at first -but- our cat, Tobi, follows on our walks. She started this when she was 7 months old with my Tipper walks. Now she is following with Dakotah. They play together in our back yard -and- they played together in the Park. My greatest worry was the cat taking off and the dog following. To my greatest joy, the cat did take off -and- the dog followed -but- I called the dog... and he stopped... and he came back to me!! This was repeated several times with one that was scary, so to speak. I called and he sat down and stared at me... for what seemed like a long time. But then he got up and came to me. This was/is great!! However, there was no one else at the Park. Not to sure how we are gona handle that.

Problem with cell phone cameras. You always have them with you -BUT- not necessarily ready. And getting it ready takes longer than the shot you want will stay there. My puppy was standing with his front paws on a 2 or 3 inch high side-walk and his rear feet on the grass. His back was straight and his head was held high... a classic pose. -AND- I missed it!!
-AND- it is never to be seen again. Three weeks later and the Silver/Grey color is hidden. The tips of his fur have become black. Yep. He has two tone fur. -AND- he refuses to let me put the harness on him. I who was/am so against just a collar now have to use only that -or- never walk him again!! I talked to my Vet and guess what?? A collar is all he uses for his dog!! So the Siver/Grey fur with the Black Harness ... never to be seen again. Only in my mind.
Update: September 13th - 18th, 2015 See  RuffWear Harness  

 June 22, 2015 / 1:42am - 16 ½ weeks - Flirt-Pole   Haven't even obtained one via store -or- DIY, yet, nor have I tried one -BUT- I think it is a great idea!! -And- I will probably have mine tomorrow today! What is it?? A 4 to 6 foot section of PVC pipe, and 10 to 15 foot piece of rope, with a toy tagged onto the end. You run the rope through the PVC pipe, tie knots on both ends, and then attach the toy. It is a "cat toy" for a dog!! I'm certain that my new puppy will love it. You can also purchased a pre-made one in the Pet Stores. I'll let cha all know AFTER I make one. My wife, the contractor, has a piece of PVC that looks to be about 5 feet -and- a long rope. IF I can use those... I will have our new toy quickly. Otherwise I'll have to go buy my own. The greatest part about this is the commands that I will get to teach Dakotah -and- practice with on a regular basis.   sit, down, look, wait, take it, leave it, drop it.   -AND- I'm getting up there in years. I still want to take the long walks, in addition to the dog, my heart needs them, -but- not necessarily every day. I get kinda tired towards the end. With this pole, when we get tired, we just go in the house. Besides all that... we live in Phoenix. I can play with Dakotah in the backyard during the day -but- NOT walk on the hot sidewalks and road. From April/May to September/October the sun is intense. Limits outdoor activities from 9/10 o'clock to 6/7 o'clock. There are times during that period that my Puppy would like a little more activity. -And- with using this pole in "our backyard", we will be able to quit and get refreshed in Air Conditioning fast.
Refer:  Flirt-Pole  

This may also be an answer to my night-time problem. What is that, you ask?? Well, what do you do during the hot time. Siesta... sleep... rest. Then when it gets dark... and we are supposed to be tired and sleep, guess what?? We are wide awake!! We have slept most of the day. I can invision this "Flirt-Pole" helping me to eliminate that situation. My Puppy has wanted to play fetch at 2:00am many nights AFTER he has done his 'business'. He may still wake me, I hope, to go outside -but- hopefully he will be tired enough to go back to sleep. I will try to remember to let you know.

 June 24th, 2015 / 4:14am   Well, here we are on Dakotah's 17th week Birthday. Yeah, I'm still counting his age in weeks. Probably will continue until he is 6 months old. Anyway, the Flirt-Pole was/is the greatest thing since spilt milk! He enjoyed playing/chasing with it -AND- it tired him out. Remember the, "A tired GSD/Husky is a happy GSD/Husky". Well, that makes a happier owner too!!! Got some sleep last night. Yeah it is early in the morning -but- that was my wake up -and- the cats. I do these 4 o'clock wake-ups a lot. Seems to be that way ever since my first heart attack... which was at 4 o'clock in the morning. That was my wake-up call from the Lord... back in August of 1997.

 August 15th, 2015   Well, here we are at 24 weeks, or 6 months. He is doing better -but- not as good as I would like -BUT- that is my fault. I don't work with him enough. Haven't gotten myself organized yet... -AND- it has been hot and humid here in Phoenix. So during the day we both sleep. Things will get better next month, September, and thereafter cause it will be cooler.

 August 19th, 2015/6:58am   Yeah it is only 4 days later -but- right now I am one those assholes that some of the "Dog Experts" talk about. The ones that give up on their dogs and take them to the pound. Actually NO. I am NOT there yet -but- I am getting a little, no alot, frustrated. On one hand I got the wrong dog and on the other he is great! He is very, very high in energy. I don't remember my dogs of the past requiring as much attention as this one does. It seems like 24hrs a day!! -But- that is not true either. Just seems that way cause of my work schedule, doctor appointments -and- the fact that I am older and in bad health and can not keep going like I used to. It's just that when 'I' want to sit and relax at my computer -or- TV ... he doesn't!! -And- then there is also the fact that I/we can NOT leave ANYTHING laying around. Last night, evidently, my wife left her Bluetooth on the end table. This morning it is chewed up in pieces -and- this is the 2nd one!! I can't even properly clean the pool filter. He has to take all the parts! That is what brought about this paragraph... I am trying to clean the filter. He loves water and is right there when I am spraying off the parts. On one hand it is OK -but- on the other I worry, probably needlessly, about the chemicals which come out of the filter. And the inline filter has a screen bag that he wants to take and chew and tear apart, which he has done once already. Time.... time.... time.

 August 29th, 2015 - 26½ weeks    Flea Collars  
Well now, after lots of investigations -and- reading the outside of the boxes -and- the inside wrappers, I decided NOT to get one of these or any of those sprays. They have all kinds of warning on them -and- inside them. Things like, Don't let your kids play with the animal -or- Don't let the animal rub up against some fine furniture.... etc; Also if you read what the ingredients are, they are nothing more than pesticides. Don't believe I want that stuff on 'my' animal(s).

 September 22, 2016 / 1½ years    Flea + Tick Spray   So now, it has taken me this long to find a Flea and Tick remedy that is safe. Actually found it by accident whilst ordering some Blue Buffalo from Chewy.com. It is called "Vet's Best".
Vet's Best Flea and Tick Spray (8 oz) kills fleas, flea eggs, ticks, and mosquitoes on contact. Flea + Tick Spray uses a unique blend of natural ingredients of peppermint oil and clove oil extract to soothe dog and cat skin to leave pets comfortable and smelling fresh. Safe for use around children, and on dogs and cats 12 weeks or older.

  • Kills fleas, flea eggs, ticks, and mosquitoes on contact, and repels mosquitoes after use
  • Natural key ingredients feature peppermint oil and clove extract control and kill fleas and ticks; absolutely no pyrethrins, permethrins, or cedar oil
  • Safe for use on or around dogs and cats 12 weeks or older, and safe for use around children
  • Can be used on dogs and cats indoors or outdoors
  • Soothes dog and cat skin and leaves them smelling fresh; can be applied to pets indoors or outdoors

 Games for all - June 29th, 2015    Games for Every Dog    Keeping Your Dog Busy  
 September 26th, 2015  - This section is important -and- it is becoming more important. I/we need to keep our dog occupied. He is young and energetic, unfortunately I'm old and tired. -But- he has renewed us a little an I am going to try to be more of a playmate to him.  Beyond Fetch   is a series of pages that describes some games to play with your dog. Now then I think I got to these thru the first reference above but anyways this is a shortcut if I did. Now then, if I, and you, can't do something with this info, then we are pretty bad off and should transfer ownership of the dog to someone else. Jump to the   Games Section   .

 September time frame   During this month, Julie had vein surgery on her legs and Sarah got tackled by the dogs... literally. We, Sarah and I, were walking Kiko with Sundance and Dakotah to help Julie out after her surgery. On one of the first walks Kiko and Dakotah got into one of their "play wrestles" and rolled into Sarah. For some reason they always seem to fight at our feet. The fight is only half serious but they rush by us at close quarters... and brush us. Well, we were expecting one of us to get hit ... and unfortunately it was one of the ladies... Sarah. They bowled her over and twisted her ankle. She could barely walk and her sister had to 4 wheel it out to our desert walking area and pick her up. She showed it to me a couple of days later and it was all colors of a bruise, including green. It is now October and she is still hurting -but- is able to do some walking around the block. No desert though... yet.

Julie has taken Kiko for walks by herself and been ok. -But- we do NOT want an instance with the dogs and Julie like we had with Sarah. It would not be good on her stiches. Sarah didn't have an operation and she is still hurting. May have to get it checked out further.

So we have a word of caution, like has been said many times in other places... be careful and watch the dogs at 'all' times. Even though they are NOT vicious they can still be a danger. Their play can ... and sometimes does ... get to ruff.

 March 12th, 2016   I wanted this by his first birthday... and maybe it was... but I got the acid test today. My daughter came to our house with 3 of her neigborhood children. She has almost adopted them!! But anyway they were playing in our backyard on the swings that we have in the trees. Dakotah thought that it was great. He likes kids anyway. I leaned against our wooden pole fence that separates the 'play area' from the 'pool area'. I called him a couple of times and he came to me. Then I went into the kitchen in the house where he could NOT see me. I whistled and called him, "Dakotah come" -and- he came a running!!
Later, that night I was at the park with Mike and Kiko. When it was time to go I said watch this... hoping Dakotah would 'properly' respond and I said "Dakotah leash" and he came over to me. There was a little delay -but- he came!! An RRR?? (Reliable Recall Response) I consider both episodes an accomplishment of my desired "UN-conditional Recall". May need more work and will need more practice -but- I feel that we are there.

 March 14th, 2016   Another wonderful event. Went over to the park and lots people were there. I let my Dakotah free and he went straight to where these two young girls were playing with a volley ball. He stood off but then ran around them. They asked if they could pet him and I said yes -but- he wouldn't let them catch him. One of them ran around chasing Dakotah and he loved it. Then I called him ... AND HE CAME DIRECTLY TO ME!! We played around a little longer but I had to leave cause of an injury to my finger. That is another story but it involved opening a Bryers Ice Cream container and accidentally slicing myself. I had taken the bandage off and forgot to put a new one on before going to the park.

   

  Games & Tricks Section

Now here, in this section, I will probably copy, steal and borrow info from a lot of the other sites that I have referenced above. However, the info here will be my, and Dakotah's, version of the game(s). I proudly have a GSD/Husky and I would like him trained and well mannered. So, even though this is titled "Games" a lot will envolve what we normally call basic commands. Cause from what I have read -and- seen, IF they don't know the basics then they will have a hard time with the others.
 How to live with a High Energy Dog    12 Life Saving Tricks  
 Zak George's Dog Training rEvolution    How to play with your Husky  
 !0 Brain Games  


There are various ways to play with a dog and certainly different dog breeds prefer different play styles. Retrievers typically like to fetch, scent hounds love playing Find It or Hide and Seek games using their noses, terriers were mostly bred for chasing and rooting out vermin and like shake and kill games and squeaky toys. Herding dogs may prefer chasing games, agility or Frisbee catching. The breed or mix of breeds of your dog will give you a clue as to what type of play style they might enjoy the most.

The way we interact and play with our dogs also has a bearing on how much our dogs enjoy playing with us. Dogs seem to respond more to people with high-pitched, enthusiastic voices and a playful attitude rather than someone who is very laid-back, soft-spoken or uses a monotone voice. Dogs seem to sense when we�re having fun playing which in turn increases their exuberance. They are masters of reading our body language and they look for our play signals. While researching how dogs play, I came across this interesting article on play signals by Scientific American called It�s Not You It�s Me.

Refer:  Chasing Dog Tales  


 October 20th, 2015   Ok, we have been somewhat against "Clicking" -BUT- today we purchased a clicker. I just didn't, and still don't think, that it is a great idea. So why did I buy one?? Because I 'WILL' have this dog trained by his first birthday and it appears that I will have to try this 'clicking method' in order to succeed. This is from various reports on the Web,  Karen Pryor 's  page in particular. I decided to get the clicker AFTER reading her page. "Bingo, you win." and "event marker" were the two terms that caught my attention. My success, good or bad, will naturally be reported here.

 June 20th, 2016/3:07pm  These are two types of dog training. The first one is very gentle, like an angel, and the second is a little harsh, like a Drill Sargent.
 Train Your Dog Like A Pro DVD    Dog Training Manners in Minutes NOT MONTHS!  


Refer:  Mental Stimulation  

Have your Dog Work for their Food   Kong Wobbler  
Let Your Dog Sniff & Explore on Walks   Other end of th leash  
Get Your Dog a Puzzle Toy   Muffin Tin Dog Game  
Teach Your Dog Some New Tricks   52 Tricks  
Play Some Nose Work Games   Nose work  
Teach Your Dog the Names of Their Toys  The first step is making sure your dog knows the name of the item you're going to be hiding.
Play Some Free Shaping Games   101 things to do with a box  
Make an Obstacle Course For Your Dog   How to build agility course  
 Dog Agility Equipment Jump Cups  
Engage in More Interactive Play With Your Dog   Tug  
Play the Shell Game With Your Dog   Teach the Shell Game  

 1. Tug of War  Made this number '1' cause I like what it teaches and we already play 'Tug of War' a lot. I changed the gender from female to male, cause my dog is a boy. I like the way the original Author made some training out of a game.
This game may seem basic, but it can be really beneficial for your pooch. Not only does it help him release his inner canine aggression, but it can also be a way for you to teach him how to "get it" and "let go," all while getting in a good exercise. Try to teach your dog not to grab the toy until you say so. Do this by rewarding him for staying while you leave the toy on the ground. Once he has that down, move on to the action word "get it!" This will teach him that he is allowed to grab the toy. Now you can initiate the game. Next, your dog must learn how to let go. Let go of the toy and say "let go." Once your dog releases the toy, reward him immediately. Keep practicing this as it's probably the trickiest command a dog can learn in this game. Once he has that down, put them all together and have a fun and educational game of tug of war.
Refer:  Tug-O-War   and  Fun Game to Play With Your Dog  
I found another reason for 'Tug of War'. He lets me brush him while we are playing.

 Why Dogs Love Tug of War  I think it's gotta be instinctive. I agree they like the interaction and the bitework, of course, but I do think that in pre-living-with-humans packs they would tug on pieces of prey as Der Trihs suggests.

Think about it -- it's useful to be able to divide up the food, especially since dogs share food altruisitcally, and it helps make swallow-able chunks as well. But dogs don't have cutting boards or vises -- nothing to hold the chunk in place while they saw with their teeth and pull...except another dog on the other end. So it's a useful behavior to share a tug with a pack mate, and most useful behaviors get modeled in play because play is how they are learned.

So I speculate that dogs thought tug-of-war was fun even before they merged their destinies with humans. Refer:  Why Dogs Love Tug of War  


 2. Back up and sit between your legs   This is a rather cool trick. You first teach him to back up. He, the demonstrator, did it in an enclosed area which was his couch and the wall. Don't think that will work for us. However, I think the two picnic benches will do the trick. After you have that down, then you need to teach him to spin, or turn, around with his back to you. This can be a trick in itself. After you have the two parts mastered, you put them together for the trick. He uses a clicker, which I don't care for. I would rather use voice commands and cues. -But- I may change my mind.
Refer:  Teach your dog this cool trick    Clicker vs Voice    Dummies How to Train with Clicker    Back Spin    Back Up and Weave Backwards Through Your Legs    Twirl through legs  


 A Clicker   I don't really know what to say about these. Clickers are new to me and I really didn't want to get envolved with them. However, I have a dog that is smarter than me, or at least it seems so. He is one of those "High Energy Dogs" -and- he is in his 'adolescent or teenager months'. I want to have him properly trained by his First Birthday. I never 'really worked' with any of my previous dogs. This one has cought my fancy more than any other. Don't really know why -but- I have loved this dog ever since I saw his picture in the Craig's List Ad on the Internet. I really need to find activities to do with him. He is like they say, full of energy, and he won't be happy just laying around the house with us. I don't have a very good imagination so I have been searching the Web for things to do.
Refer:  Train Your Shepherd with a Clicker    How to Clicker    Clicker for Dummies  
A very good, no excellent, description of Clickers and their use:  What is Clicker Training?  
       
Now then, I purchased this one cause it "looked" more professional and had the arm band. Not so sure that it is going to work all that well. It is NOT very loud... -BUT- dogs have good hearing... so we will see. There are some things that I want to teach Dakotah and a lot of them use clickers. I do believe that, Chet Womach, the person that I just signed up with for advanced training, uses one of these.


Train a German shepherd Dog with Positive Reinforcement.

Clicker training works on reinforcing positive behavior with a reward. The dog must first learn that a click always provides a treat. Then the behavior that you would like him to repeat is pinpointed with the sound. Any unhelpful behavior is ignored completely as this will encourage the dog to offer the behavior that provides him with the click and reward. The high intelligence of this breed ensures that he will pick up this type of training quickly.

When learning how to train a German shepherd dog with a clicker, you must first ensure that your dog is completely in tune with the sound and always expects a treat after hearing it. If the dog is not rewarded every single time, then the sound will lose its effectiveness. Also, if you click at the wrong time, you must still provide the treat despite the unhelpful behavior that you may have unwittingly reinforced.
Refer:  German Shepherd Training  



 3. Basic Obedience -and- play  Up in the Info and Play section I have this one listed -but- I wanted to put it here in the Games Section also. Cause IF done right it can be fun -and- training. The commands to work on are:   sit, down, look, wait, take it, leave it, drop it.   How to do them?? Use a flirt-pole which is described up in the  Info_ref   section. And here:  A Flirt Pole Dog Toy   He really likes this toy. Getting it out of the garage and into the back yard is some training in itself. Guess I should include Off and No Jump in the commands to be learning with this. Now I have actually been bad on this. I have just been flopping it around and twirling it for him to play with. Now I am gona try to change the rules and have him wait to do something. Gona be interesting... -but- this also has to wait until the cone is off.

Also Refer:  Dog Play    German Shepherd Corner    How to live with a High Energy Dog  
 how to teach your dog to do practically anything  


 4. Nose Work   Well, we use the dog's senses... -and- again understanding the basic commands. So we get a double benefit. Occupying the dog and basic command practice. I may add more verbiage later(I usually do) but for now I'll refer you to:  Teach Your Dog Some Basic Nose Work . As the reference says; this search command can be your new best friend, especially on rainy days. I already sorta play this with him, inadvertently. He likes my peanuts and granola bars. He can be in the other room... sleeping even... and when I open the peanuts or get a granola bar, he is there shortly after to get his share.


 5. Paw Targeting   This one looked like fun for both of us.
This video is a how to video on how to teach your dog to target an object with his front paws. This is not only a great game to teach your puppy or dog how to learn to learn, but it is the foundation for many behaviors and tricks. Tricks with this foundation include- wave, shake , high five, standing up, hands up, close the door, cop cop, say your prayers, descrimination, freestyle foot work and more.

 Paw Targeting  

 April 2nd, 2016 / 7:35pm   Alllllllrighty now... I tried the "Paw Targeting" a couple of times afte reading about it but I was not having much success --or so I thought---. Dakotah is a year old and weighs 65lbs±. Kinda big to sit on the floor with and play this game as she does with a puppy. -But- we tried and got discouraged. Today I tried again only I held the 'cup/bowl'. with treat under it, in my hand and said 'Paw'. He was frantic for the treat(nothing more than dog kibble) but he eventually would 'Paw' the cover and I would give him the treat. Got him to use both paws too. He's not ready for prime time yet but we impressed my wife. Along those lines he will Front, Sit, Down, Sit from down, Stand and Stationary Heel. He comes when called -BUT- we still have not obtained what is considered an RRR, (Reliable Recall Response). Especially when it comes time to stop something that is fun.


 6. Teaching Fetch   I'll cover the most common problems I hear about with teaching fetch including what to do if your dog chases it but won't bring it back, won't let go, gets bored quickly, or plays inside, but not outside and more!

Lafitte has been doing some property damage to the walls, so Michael and Dianna asked for some help. Did you know that a well played game of fetch on a regular basis will dramatically reduce or stop virtually all excessive unwanted behaviors like chewing, scratching, digging, jumping, leash pulling and more?
Plus active dogs generally live a longer, happier life if they routinely and vigorously exercise.

My experience tells me that a lot of people stop too soon when it comes to teaching fetch. In fact, most people are about 3 training sessions away from having a dog that understands the basic rules of fetch, with the proper guidance of course ;).

 Zak's Perfect Fetch  

 September 14th, 2016 / 11:23am   Besides teaching 'fetch' I learned a few 'other' things about training. Some things I wish I had known, or realized before. Some of the items were probably mentioned in the previous training helps that I read, or viewed, but for some reason they didn't register. Just like the 'quality' of the treats when using treats. One thing I found in this video is the fact that; You don't use treats when teaching fetch.

Now then, I just found this today -but- I think it is going to be my main focus for the next few days -or- maybe even the next few weeks. Definately for the rest of his life. Almost every article has "exercise" as the main cure for almost any problem with almost any dog... especially "High Energy" dogs like mine. In this game training he mentions that almost all dogs like the chase and they don't care who is chasing who. My Dakotah is very much like that, only he likes to be chased more so than do the chasing. When we play with other dogs he trys to goad them into chasing him.


 7. Agility   Now I have tried lots of things to get some interaction with my Puppy, -but- was having a difficult time. So, I am trying this agility course stuff. We had some un-used ¾" pipe and I decided to make the agility course out of it. My wife assisted me. She is more of a "handyman" than I am when it comes to this stuff. So together we built the stuff. Ideas came from the Web in the places listed in the table above.
Now then, getting the jump cups for a ¾" pipe was, and was not, easy. Seems most of the places were using 1" PVC. My wife found some that were made from cutting the plumbers grade as described below -and- they worked but were difficult to install and adjust. I will probably get shot when she learns that I ordered these -but- I did.

Don't be fooled by imitation jump cups that are simply plumbers grade water tee's cut in half. These jump cups are designed specifically for this application. Price includes 20 jump cups (10 sets) for 3/4" PVC pipe. Perfect if you are making your own jumps and need just the cups to complete your project. *Note that PVC pipe is measured and sold by inside diameter. Your pipe should be factory labeled 3/4". Likewise, you can measure the i.d. with a ruler.

 October 16th, 2017   My Dakotah is now 2 and ½ years old and I am just now getting him into this agility stuff. But he is picking it up rather quickly and seems to enjoy it. However, I think he is more interested in the treats than anything else. The "Dog Agility Shop" is also a good place to do business. I placed my "first" order in error and Mike worked with me to get it straightened out... quickly.


 January 18th, 2015/7:45am   For Christmas I got Chet Womach's "Advanced Training" course that is supposed to let me train my dog to be like a service dog. In an email, from Chet, I received an ad about these 'tricks' and I decided to get them. He had a special for $29 dollars and I bit cause... I want something to do with my dog!! And 'I' am not imaginative enough.

Plus So Many More, Including :
  • High five
  • Give kisses
  • Growling (non-aggressive)
  • Quiet
  • Beg
  • Let's dance baby!
  • Wag your tail
  • Shake a paw
  • Howling on command
  • Bark on command
  • Play the piano
  • Belly crawl across the room
  • Open / close the door
  • Hide your face / embarrassed
  • Retrieve items by name
  •  

   

  Puppy Biting

My Puppy, 6 weeks old, is constantly biting/chewing on my hands/arms and feet. As it turns out, according to Ceasar, I am "showing to much love". At least showing it wrong -or- at the wrong time. Of course that was my interpretation of what he said. From his WebPage, refered to below, he says:

    A pack leader is not a chew toy, so what the puppy chewing problem tells me is that you are not the puppy's pack leader; you are a friend. You need to adopt the concept, "body, mind, and then heart." Right now, it appears you are embracing "heart, body, and then mind." If you are willing to make that switch, your puppy will stop seeing you as a chew toy.
    I'd like for you to pay attention to the energy you are sharing with your puppy. A lot of people start off the day with affection first. When dogs get excited, they can get mouthy. When you get up in the morning, are you greeting Mother Nature with excited energy or are you establishing your leadership by sharing calm-assertive energy? You should only share affection after dog exercise and discipline.
    Add some structure - rules, boundaries, limitations - and that will make you the authority figure in the puppy's life. Once you become pack leader, you will no longer have the puppy chewing problem.
Refer:  Puppy Chewing on Caretakers  

In addition to Ceasar's info, there is this WebPage which also makes sense. In fact it is similar to one that I read in the beginning and was trying to follow. I do believe that we need to combine BOTH ways.
Refer:  Ouch! Puppy keeps Biting Me    Survive Puppy Teething    Puppy Mouthing  
 Stop Dog Mouthing    How-to Stop Biting  

This is probably the most popular method and my personal favorite. Make your puppy think he is hurting you each time he has a nip at you. This method replicates the way dogs sort out this biting amongst themselves. When puppies are biting and nipping each other it only stops when one puppy lets out a yelp. We can use this natural way dogs learn by letting out an Ouch! or an Arrr! every time one of our puppy's bite. The trick is to startle your dog with your voice, and then pull away and stop playing with your puppy for a while. Your pup will soon learn that when he starts to bite, his playmate (you) goes away.

The above wording is the best 'summation' of all that I have read on this subject. The author's words are the same ones that I would use, or at least quite similar. The only thing that I would add is, from another page, when the Puppy bites, let out your yelp and let your hand go limp. This will, hopefully, stop the play but, more importantly, not drag your hand across the puppy's sharp teeth!! We must understand that when we get our pets to early that we will have to put up with certain things.

"Normally", or so I have learned, the 'puppies' will bite each other in learning how to control their bite. My pup was only 5 weeks old when I got him. He was just starting his bite training. My hands and my left arm show the results of my "Bite inhibition" training. They are 'ALL' accidents. -BUT- the best part is; now at 8 ½ weeks the biting is getting softer. We have sat together and I have felt him 'glide' his teeth over my fingers very gently. Progress is being made.

 May 7th, 2015  The following article claims that my Pup will lose his puppy teeth between 8 and 12 weeks of age. He is now 10 weeks old. Teeth are still sharp and my neighbor says that his new Adult Teeth will also be sharp in the beginning.
 Puppy Teeth Loss    Managing Play-Biting  

 May 14th, 2015  Ok I listened to all the do gooders and have even recorded them here. However, my Pup still it biting to much. My left arm is in constant pain and so are my hands. He leads with his mouth... constantly biting. That like his potty traning is going to get more intense. Like I said in the potty training area, I will NOT beat on the dog -but- he will understand that he is to NOT bite me... anymore.

 June 6th, 2015  And then I search for and read more on the subject.  My Puppy Keeps Biting Me   The part in this article, similar or the same as others, but this one caught me, is this:
It is critically important that you teach your pup HOW to bite, rather than NOT to bite. Later in life, if your dog is startled by something and bites, good bite inhibition determines whether your dog will simply growl, snap, and/or just apply teeth as a warning, OR whether he will puncture, maim or kill another being. A dog with great bite inhibition is a much safer dog! Soooo... more emphasis on training -AND- what I stole from him.... His litter-mate training. But we have a cat that was less than a year old. At first there was the usual animosity. The cat was very defensive and the puppy wanted to play. During this 9 weeks that they have had together, they have learned to play together. I place a lot of that on the fact that we got the kitten while my Tipper was still with us. Even though Tipper could not see well -and- eventually went totally blind the kitten still tried to play with her. -And- Tipper somewhat played back. Tipper was the 'mother' to our last two cats... as kittens. So this lastest one, Tobi, has befriended Dakotah, as a result of the 'Tipper' training, and they play together. The cat has had her whole head inside the dog's mouth!! Real 'Bite Inhibition' training.

 July 4th week-end, 2015   Had a neat experience over this week-end. We were watching TV and the dog was up on the couch beside me. He gently took my thumb in his mouth and fell asleep!! He has learned to control his biting.

   

  Twelve Things -- I added two

I found this list on the Net -but- it lacks something. How-to teach your dog these life saving tricks. But I will fill in that part... POSITIVELY -and- NOT beating on him/her... along with some of his words considering the trick/act. A reference to his work is at the end of the list.

In the past I have been/was guilty of perhaps being to aggressive with my dogs. Mainly cause, like a number of you, I got to impatient, -OR- I expected to much to fast... -AND- it 'was' the way. But now I am 'older' and, hopefully, wiser. On top of that, there is the Internet, which has the good -and- the bad. Hopefully, I will have recomended only the good. And one of the first items to recomend is:
       Winning a Puppy's Trust and Respect .
Many, many, if not all, of the Web Pages tell you to become the "Pack Leader" and to gain and maintain respect. So we put that at the top of the list, cause it will cause the rest to be tons easier. Respect -NOT- fear. Don't be a bully. You can win your puppy's trust and respect by asking for simple compliance to basic training commands and through handling and gentling exercises. Of utmost importance, these routines must be predictable as anticipated by your puppy. -AND- time... you must spend time with your dog in training. Fifteen, or more, minutes a day... NOT once a week.
 German Shepherd Puppy Training  


 Treats vs No Treats  As I said at the beginning of this Web Page, I am trying to do a better job of raising this new puppy. And this is one thing that bothers me ... a lot. First you are told to reward him with treats and then you are told not to over do it on the treats. Well, hell, how do you train him and not over do it?? Every place you go for advice says give him a treat, a reward. Then I find this:  Biggest Scam in Modern Dog Training . The article starts off with a list of "Mind blowing flaws in training your dog" with the first one on the list being:
    Your dog will only listen to you when you are actually "holding" a treat.
-BUT- on the other side we have:  5 Myths About Training Dogs With Treats  . This one brings up 'bribery' versus 'reinforcement'. IF the treat is presented 'before' the command it is a bribe. IF it is presented 'after' the command -and- the completion then it is a reward. In going over my actions during the past 4 months, I do believe that I have been a little guilty of 'bribery'. And to quote the last sentence in the myth article:
"The idea that training with treats leads to people walking around with treats in their pockets for as long as they have their dogs is based on a poor understanding of how good dog training works."

  1. Treats are bribes. This myth is the old standard. The "Greensleeves" of treat disparagement, if you will. Let's be clear: a bribe and a reinforcer are NOT the same thing. A bribe is produced before the desired behavior, a reinforcer is produced after the behavior. Yes, some people do show their dogs a treat before asking them to do something. They're doing it wrong.
  2. If you use food, your dogs will not obey you without it. Here again is a myth based on bad training. The only reason your dog would refuse to perform without food is because she's used to seeing it beforehand. You're doing it wrong.
  3. Dogs should work because they want to please you. Some people seem to think that dogs should find working for their people inherently rewarding, like Jeeves and Wooster, or Smithers and Burns. When you think about it, it's pretty silly. Yes, it's true that dogs and humans have lived side-by-side for millennia, and as a result we are uniquely suited to work together, but the idea that this relationship is so one-sided that dogs will perform for no tangible reward makes no sense and is anthropomorphism, plain and simple. It's nice, it's romantic, and it makes for a great tear-jerker, but sorry folks; Disney dogs exist only in Disney movies.
  4. Dogs should work for praise. Closely related to the the previous myth is the idea that dogs find praise inherently rewarding. Some dogs actually do find praise rewarding, and it's also possible to condition praise as a reinforcer (it may even happen as a side effect of a good relationship), but the idea that all or even most dogs are eager to work for just a pat on the head or a "good dog" is more fantasy.
  5. Training for treats is fine for tricks, but not for "real training." I really find this one mystifying, but actually see it most often expressed by trainers. Is it that dogs instinctively know the difference between tricks and "real training" and take one less seriously than the other? Or maybe that behaviors trained without food are more reliable? What makes them more reliable? A lack of food? An emphasis on punishment or the threat of punishment? Maybe it's that inherently rewarding praise? Why would one reinforcer always lead to less reliable performance than another, regardless of the situation and individual dog?

 Weaning Off Food in Training

Food is used in training new behaviors, yet once the dog understands what behavior goes with a specific command, it is time to start weaning him off the food treats. At first, give a treat after each exercise. Then, start to give a treat only after every other exercise. Mix up the times when you offer a food reward and the times when you only offer praise so that the dog will never know when he is going to receive both food and praise and when he is going to receive only praise. This is called a variable ratio reward system and it proves successful because there is always the chance that the owner will produce a treat, so the dog never stops trying for that reward. No matter what, always give verbal praise.

Which brings up  Respect Training   and why it makes more sense to dogs.


  1.  Sit  This is one of the really basic commands. Some of the ways that these "References" teach I have never heard of before. -But- they will probably work. Just remember ... Love - Patience - and don't over-do it. Love is spelled T-I-M-E.
     WiKi How-to Sit    Sit for Dummies  

    My experiences: Half of my training here in the beginning has been giving him the command 'as he was already doing it'! After all, he is only 8½ weeks old. But I can point my finger at him and say 'Sit' and he does. Course he is mainly interested in the 'Treat' that comes with the action. Just like when I call him. It is not perfect -but- we are having some successes.

    Do a sit-stay. This is an easy way to reinforce your role as alpha. Put the dog in a sit-stay for five to ten minutes. For particularly dominant dogs, make it a down-stay, and even more submissive position. If he's a wild animal and he doesn't know the meaning of the word obedient, all the better. When he breaks - and he will - put him back. If he breaks 14 times put him back 14 times. At the end of a few minutes, the dog knows you're alpha. He knows that anyone who holds his leash can call the shots. And this is with no yelling, no hitting, no electronic stimulation, no leaving him in the kennel or garage for three days, no nothing. Just a sit-stay. Easy and effective.
    Refer:  CBR Rescue  


  2.  Lie down  Another "Basic" command... -but- I have had problems with this one in the past. We'll see how these Internet References help this time.
     WiKi How-to Lie Down    Lie Down for Dummies  

    My experiences: Well, he was not really all that willing to learn this one -but- he did. I can call him and tell him to sit and then down. He reluctantly does... for a treat. July 31st, 2015 I'm recording it on this date -but- he really started doing it a week or so ago.


  3.  Stay  Sit and Stay... again should be basic. IF the dog will obey on this one ... I would say you have control!!
     WiKi How-to Stay    Stay for Dummies  

    My experiences: Well, what I have been doing is... calling him to his food area with special foods and then commanding him to sit and stay. I put the food dish down and then tell him Ok, break. That has been my initial stay training. August 3rd, 2015 - 22½ weeks. So far it is working. One step at a time... or so they say. At least he is learning the words.


  4.  Come  Now here, I already tried some of the suggested ways on the Net. One was/is a reward of a treat. This command should hold top priority.
     Come When Called Training  
    Whether you're teaching a young puppy or an older dog, the first step is always to establish that coming to you is the best thing your dog can do. Any time your dog comes to you whether you've called him or not, acknowledge that you appreciate it. You can do this with smiles, praise, affection, play or treats. This consistent reinforcement ensures that your dog will continue to "check in" with you frequently.  ASPCA.org  

    My experiences: My puppy is only 6 weeks old and I can get him running to me when I call his name with a come. "Dakotah come" and he comes running. Course I had better have a treat!! When he is a little older I am going to relax on the treats and just praise him.
    Hmmmmm... at 9 weeks he is ignoring me sometimes when I call him.
    We are at 13 weeks and he is NOT doing much better -but- I believe that is more my fault than his. I am not practicing enough. Need to call him more.
    Refer:  Come when called  

     GSD Come - October 32-35 weeks   I snuck this one here in cause I liked the way they changed the command..."Dakotah Where are you?" instead of "Come" which seems to have developed a negative nature to it. NOT because of punishment but because of getting hooked up to go home from the Park!! This is to involve all members of the family -but- we only have two living at home. Meself and me wife. -But- a number of times we are in different rooms. Perhaps each of us just calling him will do the trick. Of course we will have to make sure we have some treats... at least in the beginning. Refer:  Teach your GSD more commands  

     Petown Dog 50-Feet Training Lead Leash  : This leash gives you the ultimate control over your dog, while still allowing your dog the freedom to move, run, and play. Used during play, the leash is long enough for you to play a great game of fetch with your dog - all while holding one end of the leash. It's a great way to honor local leash laws, keeping your dog under control at all times while giving them lots of running room. Used during training, the leash is perfect protection for you. You can let the leash drag on the ground and focus on working with your dog - but if your dog decides to make a run for it, you have plenty of time to react and keep your dog close. Your dog learns the feel of obedience without being dependent on the leash. For example, you can teach your dog to "heel" with the leash dragging on the ground - and once your dog's "off-leash" heel is perfect, all you have to do is pick up the leash for a perfect on-leash heel. Much easier to do it that way than to try and teach your dog how to behave off-leash when your dog is already dependent on feedback from a short leash. For the park, the backyard, the woods, or the beach - this leash gives you peace of mind and control at a distance - and your dog can just forget that it's even there.

    Once again I read the comments "after" making the purchase and the comments were not good for the most part. In fact most of them were complaints about GSD's breaking the leash!! Well all may not be lost. I went with this one because of price. It appears that a new, larger clip "sewn in" may be the trick. All I have to do is get my wife to do it... after she calms down when she finds out I bought something else for this dog. But the price of $5.63 + free shipping, after my Discover points discount, against $33.99 + $4.99 shipping was to hard to resist.
    Actually, in my own defense, I did read some comments before purchase -but- those were in the comment section of the $33.95 version. Amazon always lists "others" in their "Customers also viewed" section. That is where I found the lesser expensive one. We'll try it and if it doesn't work ... I'll return it.

     October 20th, 2015   I missed recording the 'proper' date -but- I think this is the day that I recieved the 50 foot leash. I didn't use it right away cause of various heath issues with both myself and the dog. At any rate the first attempt was disastrous.
    Well, as can be seen above the long leash was not good. I had similar problems with the retractable leash and that was the 'main' reason I got this one. I hook him up, let out a little bit of the leash and he lays down and rolls. Then we have an immediate wrap up. In looking for information and advice on the net I found this:  How do you properly use a 30 ft or 50 ft lead?   Getting a dog to come every time is about getting your dog in the correct state of mind. If your dog is being stubborn around his friends, calling his/her name and making a fus of yourself is a good way to get the dogs attention and arrouse his curiosity, he'll want to inspect and naturally will find his way to you, then you can reward. Another technique is to exploit your dogs natural "Prey" instinct, by running away you can often get your dog to chase you, then when the dog "catches" you and relaxes, you can reward. The lead should never be used to bring your dog to you, only to control the dog from running off.
    The last sentence is what caught my eye... and that is why I put emphasis on it.

     Come Perfectly    Come when called Unconditionally  
     Dog not comming when called    Come when called    Five Reasons He Won't Come  
     WiKi How-to Come    Come for Dummies    Come when called  
     Recall Part 1    Recall Part 2  


  5.  Your name is the most exciting word in the world  Well, in my opinion, this kinda goes along with the previous one. "Dakotah" and "Dakotah come" will get the same results. -BUT- we also want "Dakotah" to work with the "Focus" command ... listed further down.
     WiKi Teach Puppy its Name      

    My experiences:


  6.  Sit at street corners  I used the word "Hault" with my previous dog when we were at the corners on our walks. She seemed pretty responive to it. Previous dog, Tipper, was a German Shepherd / Bull Terrier mix. This one is a Husky / German Shepherd mix.
     Street Corner Safe      

    My experiences: At 13 weeks, we are touch and go on this. When we walk I give the command and maybe he will automatically sit and maybe he won't. Not sure yet what causes the dis-obedience, but we are working on it.


  7.  Leave it  This command and the next one I really want to work on. Partially cause when I have him chase a ball I want him to bring it back and give it to me. I don't want to have to fight for it. -AND- I want him to leave -or- drop something that I tell him to, for his safety sake.
     ASPCA Leave it      

    My experiences: Now at 13 weeks... see 'drop it' below. I, personally, think that these two commands go hand in hand.
     Teach Leave it  


  8.  Drop it    WiKi How-to Drop it    Teach to drop it  

    My experiences: Interesting, I was just reading the article on teaching your dog to 'Drop It'. In comes my dog with something that I did not want him to be chewing on. I followed him and, as calmly as I could, called him over to me with treat in hand. He let go/dropped the item and I gave him treats and lovin'. Item was saved.


  9.  Wait  This command is "almost" like the Stay command. But they are different. I used it with my previous dog to get her to NOT jump out the door and to not rush across the street.
           

    My experiences: In the process of 'Potty Training' a young pup, there are many 'accidents', as others like to refer to the puddles and piles. Clean up is necessary. I like to take the items used out to the trash. BUT I don't want Dakotah out in the yard unleahed. So, I trained him to wait. I would give the command 'Wait' and he would sit and NOT run out the door, which I closed after exiting. Then upon re-entry, time and again, I found him still sitting, waiting for me. I gave him a treat and some lovin. He has learned this faster than I had imagined.


  10.  Heel  Yeah we need this one when walking. Leashed -or- unleashed. You will notice that I have a number of different references. I have tried 'almost' everything -but- the techniques described in this reference, which may be a summary of a number of the others, are the ones that I have found most rewarding.    Leash Walking    Train Dog Not to Pull.

    My experiences: At 13 weeks we have 'some' success. Needs more work but I am happy that he is as good as he is. NO, I am not saying he is trained. I am saying that I am happy with what has transpired so far. Training never ends.
    And at 15 weeks he has decided that he doesn't like the harness -or- his collar. The later he has figured out how to remove it!! It is the Belt Buckle kind of fastener and this is the second collar that he has accomplished this on!! In fact, on this last one, he adjusted it himself. I came home from work and found him with an extremely loose collar. It was all the way out to the last hole. Thought that for some reason my wife had done it. She got home and said that she had not set it that way. He somehow did it himself!! We reset the collar to a tighter fit hole and went on for the rest of the night. Next day I found the collar unbuckled and laying in the yard!! Needless to say, we must get one of those collars that has the newer type of fastener... or not. Have to analyze this further. Don't want him to hurt himself trying to remove a collar that won't. Later--the new type of collar is ok. Still do not like it -but- found an interesting article on heeling and walking your dog.
     Magiacl Dog Leash    Finding Heel    Eye Contact    Final Step  

    At present, he wins ... we are collar walking. What we really need to work on is:
           "Proper Leash Manners"   and  Truth about Leash Corrections  
    Then he won't be straining on the leash.

     Tuesday October 20th, 2015   Well here we are at almost 8 months. As stated elsewhere, he has lost his manhood. Now I was out walking him this evening and he walked beside me the whole time!! One of the best walks we have had! To bad it takes a Cone-of-Shame to produce proper results. Hopefully, IF we get released from it this Friday, he won't forget all that he has learned.

     TEACHING HEEL

    Heeling means that the dog walks beside the owner without pulling. It takes time and patience on the owner's part to succeed at teaching the dog that he (the owner) will not proceed unless the dog is walking calmly beside him. Pulling out ahead on the leash is definitely not acceptable.

    Begin with holding the leash in your left hand as the dog sits beside your left leg. Hold the loop end of the leash in your right hand but keep your left hand short on the leash so it keeps the dog close to you.

    Say "Heel" and step forward on your left foot. Keep the dog close to you and take three steps. Stop and have the dog sit next to you in what we now call the heel position. Praise verbally, but do not touch the dog. Hesitate a moment and begin again with "Heel," taking three steps and stopping, at which point the dog is told to sit again.

    Your goal here is to have the dog walk those three steps without pulling on the leash. When he will walk calmly beside you for three steps without pulling, increase the number of steps you take to five. When he will walk politely beside you while you take five steps, you can increase the length of your walk to ten steps. Keep increasing the length of your stroll until the dog will walk quietly beside you without pulling as long as you want him to heel. When you stop heeling, indicate to the dog that the exercise is over by verbally praising as you pet him and say "Okay, good dog." The "Okay" is used as a release word, meaning that the exercise is finished and the dog is free to relax.

    If you are dealing with a dog who insists on pulling you around, simply "put on your brakes" and stand your ground until the dog realizes that the two of you are not going anywhere until he is beside you and moving at your pace, not his. It may take some time just standing there to convince the dog that you are the leader and you will be the one to decide on the direction and speed of your travel.

    Each time the dog looks up at you or slows down to give a slack leash between the two of you, quietly praise him and say, "Good heel. Good dog." Eventually, the dog will begin to respond and within a few days he will be walking politely beside you without pulling on the leash. At first, the training sessions should be kept short and very positive; soon the dog will be able to walk nicely with you for increasingly longer distances. Remember also to give the dog free time and the opportunity to run and play when you are done with heel practice.
    Refer:  Teach your GSD more commands  

     November 9, 2015  Took him out for a walk and he marched right along side of me like a trooper. I mean he stayed by my side -and- didn't pull out in front of me. He does this every once in a while and makes me so proud... then he reverts. Think that is the way that it will be for his first months. Eighteen of them ... I think. Perhaps I will get a wonderful 70th birthday present, my Dakotah well trained. -But- not IF I don't continue and follow through ... EVERY day.

     June 22nd, 2016  Well, some of my training is starting to pay off, and he is getting older. Dakotah is now almost 16mos old. He is nearing the end of his "Teenage hood" which will be in August at 18mos... or so they say, or so I was to understand. At any rate, it seems to be the "Magical Time". Tonight when we went for our walk, he walked around the block like a Pro had trained him. No pulling, no jumping, no straining ... well just a little when he had to go poo. But when I cleaned it up he didn't tug or pull on the leash. He moved around a little but I was able to clean it up with no problems. He is getting better at other times but this one was the best so far!!


  11.  Focus  Get his attention.
     Focus on You      

    My experiences: We are now at 15 weeks and calling or saying his name appears to get his attention so I would assume that is what is meant by; "Getting his focus." Well, no. You are supposed to use something other than his name -or- in addition to... like, "Dakotah - Focus" -or- "Dakotah - Look". The dog is then supposed to be looking at you. Need to work on this one.
    Eye contact. That is key to this. Special, tasty treats will help... your dog... in learning this command.


  12.  Don't take candy from strangers  In other words ... NO food from strangers. Stranger/Danger.
           

    My experiences:


  13.  No Jump or Off  I added this 13th one. I do believe that it is as important as the others. Most people do not like dogs jumping on them... especially large ones.

    Instead, you should be using the "off" cue. To teach the "off" cue.. you have to use preventative methods. This means you prevent the jumping from happening in the first place, and you add a cue to that behavior.. the non-jumping behavior. To do this, you need to communicate with your dog before he jumps, but ideally in a situation where you know he will jump. Approach him calmly, but not too too slowly, say "OFF" and swoop your hands in front of his face, and then QUICKLY reward him with lots of treats. If he ends up jumping at any point, you simply turn and walk away, ignoring him. Then, return to him and start again. You can practice this at the countertop too. Place some amazing treats on the counter, and then bring him up to the counter. Tell him, "off" and swoop your hands in front of his face as he approaches the counter with you, and then reward him with lots of treats from your hands. Repeat! "Off" when he looks at the counter, and then reward. He needs to understand why he's receiving the reward.. it's never for jumping up and then jumping off.. it's always for staying off in the first place. Work on this A LOT. Teach "off" on doors, on counters, on yourself.

    Then, when he has a solid understanding of that, you can work on it with other people. Instead of telling your dog to "stay" in those situations, you say "off" as people are approaching. If he jumps, the person turns and walk away.. then re-approaches and as they're approaching you remind your dog, "off" and reward, "off" and reward, "off" and reward until they're actually petting your dog!

     GSD Jumping Up  


  14.  No Stealing   I added this 14th one. It became important to me after two TV controllers were destroyed!!

    My puppy wants, and eats, EVERYTHING!! I swear he is part goat! The following is a quote from the reference at the bottom of this section:
    First, the why. One thing about dogs, you never have to look for deep dark motivations. They act like rascals because they've got unburned energy lying around. They're a little bit bored and want some action. They're a little bit lonely and want some attention. The item they nab smells like you. The item they nab smells like food. The item they nab has just the right chewy texture.
    I copied the above over because I thought that it is one of the best explainations for this behavior... at least to me. Like everywhere else states... get off your butt and give him/her some attention and exercise. -AND- one thing about this exercise, you need to exercise their brains too! I have learned that from my Web research -and- observation afterwards of my own experiences with my Dakotah.
    March 17th, 2016 Now in this first year of 'ownership' I have ignored almost all of my Computer and Smartphone activities. Because of my new part time job at McDonalds, I just didn't have time for everything and Dakotah was more important. Now the electronics bug is at me again and the other two activities are becoming important... again. I just got a new system and in the setup there will things that will be awfully inviting to my little, now big, puppy. Hopefully this does NOT become some "expensive" training!!
    Later: Fortunately, it didn't.

     Dogs who steal your stuff  


Refer:  Twelve LifeSaving Commands    Top Twelve  

   

  Chow Time

 We got the Puppy, Dakotah, way to early. The persons that we obtained the dog from claimed that the mother had quit nursing. So they wanted to depart with the pups. Money. That I believe was more of a reason than anything. -But- slap my face, and I apologize, IF I am wrong. At any rate, Dakotah was only 5 weeks old when we got him. His first week with us was constant diarrhea. We took him to the Vet for a check up and the Vet recomended the first food, Royal Canin, and some medicine to get rid of bacteria in his tummy. The Royal Canin Vet Food was to only be temporary. We were to mix in "Proper" Dog food as soon as the medicine was gone. One week. We had obtained some Beneful for Puppies which was supposed to be a good brand. However, after experiencing loose stools starting again, when we mixed in the Beneful, I searched the Net. Found that Beneful's colorful appearance was from Red 40, Blue 2 and Yellow 6. These color dyes are not good. In addition the first ingredient listed was "Ground Yellow Corn". Dogs don't digest that well. Anywho, "Blue Buffalo" got more recomendations and less complaints than the others, so that is the one we chose to use. So far, my Puppy is doing better.

 October 19th, 2017   Now I have tried all the Dpg Foods listed here and he doesn't really like any of them for a regular meal. I broke the rules and gave him "human" food and now that is about all he will eat. McDonald's Quarter Punder Patties and Grilled Chicken Patties. He gets a lot of "Dog" food as treats, both from our walks with my partners, and from the puzzel toys that we have.
Refer:  What to do when your dog is a picky eater  

 American Journey   Chewy.com sent me an e-mail stating that I could get a "Free" 4lb bag of this food if I used GRAINFREE in the coupon code at checkout. So I did. Glad I did! My 'Puppy' likes it... but only as a treat. Still won't eat it out of the bowl. I also recently tried a dog food named  Nutro . The Nutro food was recomended by one of my dog walking friends -and- my Dakotah loved it... as a treat from her. Bought a bag and he wouldn't eat it at home out of the bowl. He wouldn't even take it from me as a treat! -But- he would still take it from my dog walking friend?!? In the reviews, Nutro got 3.5 stars and American Journey got 5. Guess my 'Puppy' read the stars.

 American Journey    Nutro  

 Royal Canin    Blue Buffalo Puppy  
I read that the 'large breed' dogs (of which my Dakotah is) are considered 'puppies' for the first 18 months and should remain on puppy food during that time. And from  Cesar's Way
In general, you want to make the change to adult food when your puppy is approaching her adult height. The problem is that different breeds mature at different rates due to the wide range of variation between breeds. A rule of thumb to remember is that smaller breeds tend to mature faster than large breeds. Small breed dogs up to 30 pounds mature around 10 to 12 months of age keeping in mind that some toy breeds can mature even earlier. Medium breed dogs up to 80 pounds mature between 12 to 16 months and your Basset hound falls in this category. Large and giant breed dogs weighing more than 80 pounds can take up to two years to reach full maturity.
However, Animals in the wild don't suddenly start eating new foods just because they age.
 Turkey & Chicken Grill    Red Meat Dinner  
The above cans of food are the Pâté -or- mushy kind. He ate them at first and then turned his nose up at them. He prefers the chunky style... down below.

And for variety we have:
               Bison                      Lrg Breed Chicken                Reg Chicken                       Red Meat 

                     

The above are in order of his liking. Our cat likes it too, only she prefers the Chicken.


     What to feed your GSD/Husky      Blue Buffalo Wilderness Puppy Food      Blue Buff Canned  
Now then, the first one in this scenario is one that our neighbor introduced us to. I got a little bag full and put it in Dakotah's dish. He came over to it and ate it all!! Therefore, we 'assumed' that he liked it and we could get a bag of our own. Ordered an $81 bag from Chewy. HE WOULDN'T EAT IT!! I ended up giving the bag to Jeff. Got a couple of large jars full cause "he liked it for treats". Well, we are almost out and I ordered some other stuff from Chewy and we included a small bag of this one. Then in looking around I saw some other flavors that I think we can try -and- IF he likes one of the others maybe we can get him back on dog food and NOT McDonalds.
             Grasslands                        Red Meat                            Poultry                               Fish 

Food/Diet

Gerberian Shepsky's are tremendously active dogs and this makes for a pretty healthy appetite. In spite of this, they can be picky eaters and it may take some time to find the right brand/flavor of food that appeals to your particular dog. He's definitely not a one-size-fits-all breed so once you've found a combination that he enjoys, best to stick with it. One health challenge with this breed can be digestive problems, so be prepared to practice a little trial and error in order to find a brand that sits right and don't hesitate to consult your vet for recommendations.
 January 14th, 2016/7:07am  Tremendously active is almost an understatement for my Dakotah. We go for our morning or evening walk and when we get back he is more fired up than when we left!! Anywho, he is a picky eater. -BUT- then I have always wondered about dog food. What makes it so good, or what makes it 'better' than human food?? How is it determined what to feed the dogs and what not to feed them?? I mean IF you see a 'stray' dog what do you see him/her eating?? Anything that they can find. And when I walk my dog, he will eat almost everything that crosses his path. And I know he is well fed!! I, contrary to what the 'experts' say or recommend, leave a bowl of kibbles out all the time. My dog also gets fed some canned dog food or some of our 'human' food when we eat. IF he gets hungry he eats some of the kibble. There have been days where he would eat the whole bowl but for the most part it stays filled. We purchase the smaller bags so that we can vary the taste more often.
 12-15 Worst Dog Foods   Actually, looking for something else and found this. There have been others -but- this one caught my eye and mood at the time. This one, and others, really makes you wonder how manufacturers can get away with all that they do. Especially in a supposedly civilized concerned country, like the USA. -But- the excuse is China. Back when I was growing up it was Japan. Companies go where they can produce the ceapest -AND- use the cheapest materials. Which points more and more to make your own.


 What dogs eat vs what they should   Making your own Dog Food.
 Homemade Recipes   The ingredients and some discussions.


 Important reminders

Siberian Husky puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).


 Dog eating Mulberries   This is a quote from the referenced page. Like everything else on this page, I was concerned and searched for answers.

We have a huge Mullberry tree in the front yard. All the little delicious berries are ripe this time of year. Every day when I let my dog out he runs straight to the Mulberry tree and will graze under it, eating the fallen berries as long as I let him. I don't think it is causing any problems. I've seen no diarrhea or vomiting. Has anyone ever heard of a dog doing this before? And do y'all think it is okay?
I have that same situation. I have a husky puppy who loves eating the fallen mulberries under my tree-so much as a matter of fact that she has a doggie pool that she would fill up with berries and smash them like wine with her feet. What a mess- but it is fun for her. She would not graze under the tree for berries- just take a few to eat- go play- then come back for more. She still drinks and eats normally- HOWEVER- her stools turn black and runny. I was told by the vet that these berries are nontoxic and are not really harmful but if I want her bowel issue to cease, the berry eating must cease also. I have never had problems with her hallucinating or getting dizzy at all. Just the stool issue. So as long as it is not serious, I figure the summer is short-lived and she can stop eating them when the berries are all gone.
cubby14
Refer:  Dog eating Mulberries  

Refer:  38 Unexpectedly Brilliant Tips For Dog Owners  

 August 1st to September 4th, 2015   During this time period he swallowed a whole bird, tried on a 2nd one -and- an ear from a large stuffed bunny! Not at the same time but only a few days apart. Fortunately he threw both up, a day or two after, -but- how do you keep tabs on that kind of stuff?? Our cat captures and kills birds and then brings them into the house. We are not always around when this happens so we do not know how many they have "shared". As for the stuffed bunny, he has had that since we brought him home. My wife's friend purchased a number of toys for him when we got him. One of them was this large stuffed bunny. It has been his companion all this time. Now before he would eat the other ear, or other parts, we had to take it away from him. I have a "garbage" -or- "goat" dog. He will eat almost anything!! He can't be hungry cause we have food out for him all the time. He wants to eat almost everything that crosses his path. And on our joint walks, I let him run free with my friends German Shepherd in the Arizona desert land. I have no idea what he finds in the bushes unless he comes back to me with it in his mouth. Then I have had the opportunity to remove it and toss it over the fence. We walk near the dump. And no, the stuff in our walking area is NOT because of the dump. It is stuff from other careless walkers.

          April 8th, 2015 - 6 weeks           August 27th, 2015 - 26 weeks

It is the same bunny in both pictures. In the first, he is smaller than the bunny. In the second, the bunny is smaller than him.


 September 26th, 2015   Eating Tissues!!!
My 'Puppy' has decided that he likes to eat tissues and napkins, preferrably ones that have been used. I have found tubes of tissue when cleaning up after him. I have even had to help him finish by pulling it out of him!! Yes!! We have removed all the tissue boxes and try to NOT leave any laying around -but- he will come up and grab them out of your hand!! He is now seven months old and this is still a problem. It has been a problem since the beginning. We even put our waste baskets in the closet and only use the one in a cabinet under the sink.
Refer:  What attracks Pooches to Tissues  
Why does my dog eat used tissues?
Once we get past the grossness factor, there are a couple of reasons for this behavior. First, the contents of a used tissue are often very salty and this can be tasty... at least to a dog! Second, dogs like to shred things putting their paws on their slain prey and ripping out chunks of flesh; holding down a crumpled piece of tissue and ripping chunks out of it is similar behavior and the next step is obviously eating it.
Fortunately, this behavior does not mean that your dog is deficient in any nutrients.
If your dog is deficient in anything, eating tissues says he or she may be deficient in a little bit of extra playtime!
Refer:  Why dog eats used tissue  

   

  Grooming & Health

I have/had pieces of this all over the page. Just decided to create a section for this. After all, Grooming is an important part of taking care of your 'hound'. Still not all here possibly, but we are working on it.

Both the German Shepherd and the Husky are high shedding dog breeds.

However, the Gerberian Shepsky only sheds moderately and will require a good brushing 2-3 times a week to remove debris. The double coat of this unique breed can get pretty wild and owners may choose to trim and wash the hair regularly.
 Using a Vacuum Cleaner   --   FURminator on Amazon   --   The Shedding Season  
 Online Grooming  



The Brush on the left is the one that I used on my Tipper. Now I also use it on my Dakotah.



Now on the Furminator, you must be sure that you get the correct one. The one for "Long Hair" dogs.

 The Ears   The Shepsky's hair isn't the only thing pet owners will need to keep clean, this  dog's ears   tend to build up a large amount of wax that will require professional cleanings as well. Unhygienic ear cleaning habits could lead to health problems such as yeast or bacterial infections of the ear.
Refer:  Pawedin - Gerberian Shepsky  
Found this on YouTube:  Ear Treatment Training for Dogs  

 December 26th, 2016   Well, I got a vacuum for Christmas from my wife, a 1½ Gal Shop-Vac to be exact. It was similar to the ones I had been looking at, now I have one. Don't know how well my Puppy will take to it yet -but- he was not afraid of the house vac and he didn't run when I turned on the big shop vac to clean the brush whilst I was brushing him. IF I have to do the same at least this one is small and I can sit on the family room couch and watch TV whilst brushing him. Wellll... at least I will be able to brush him inside now.

Shop-Vac 1.5 gal Wet/Dry Vacuum, 2030127:

  • Collapsible top handle for easy storage
  • 6' power cord
  • Blower port to blow away hard to reach debris
  • Shop-Vac vacuum cleaner includes foam sleeve for wet pick up and reusable disc filter for dry
  • Tools included: 4' x 1.25" hose, gulper nozzle and crevice tool
  • Wall bracket for storing vacuum and wall-mounted tool storage rack to keep tools close by
  • 2-year home use warranty
  • UL certified
  • Model# 2030127
  • Assembled Product Dimensions (L x W x H)     10.00 x 9.25 x 9.00 Inches

Refer:  Shop-Vac  

Well, I tried it and it works mechanically as expected -but- Dakotah wasn't really all that happy about it. I think the Furminator pulled a little on his hair. -But- I was able to rub/wave the end of the vac over his body and he didn't seem to mind. The vac is NOT all that loud. In fact my wife was still in bed and she was surprised to hear that I had used it. She did NOT hear it. So it is going to require a break in process and time period. The other part is getting him to hold still. My brushing prior to this was whilst I was playing Tug-O-War with him.


 August 12th, 2017  Now then, since I am a 71 year old heart patient I thought that this item I found on the Web would fit nicely in here:  Walking Dogs for Excercise  

Health Benefits of Dog Walking Dogs for Exercise

Even if you aren’t looking to lose a few pounds walking dogs, both you and the dog will reap the benefits of daily walks. Dog owners often tend to overlook a few extra pounds that their dog has put on because who doesn’t love a squishy tummy to pet? However, even a couple extra pounds can take a few years off a dog’s already short life. Yet, dog walks don’t just promote a healthier life for both parties; they can actually help your dog work through some of their more annoying mental issues as well.

For You:

  • Breast cancer risk reduced by 75 percent
  • Heart disease risk decreased by 49 percent
  • Diabetes risk lowered by 35 percent
  • Colon cancer risk decreased by 22 percent

For Dogs:

  • Relive constipation and maintain healthy digestive systems
  • Reduce destructive behavior from boredom or excess energy
  • Decrease attention-seeking behavior like whining and barking
  • Increases longevity
  • Fosters both physical and mental well-being from being stimulated

   

  Nylabone and Training... and Treats

I found this company whilst looking for training info. They not only have a good section on dog training, but they also sell what appears to be some good products. We intend to purchase some and evaluate them. The basic training page, which I copied, was/is a good synopsis of almost everything that I have been researching on the Web. It is the next section after this and it has my mods in PURPLE. 'I' liked the write up -but- 'I' don't necessarily agree with everything -and- 'Ve have our Vays'. And you can use the  Nylabone Product Finder   to help find what you need for your 'friend'. They are sold at Chewy.com and at WalMart... and at Petsmart.

Dental Knot Quad Rope

Dental DuraTM Toy Rope provides play-and-chew fun while providing effective dental benefits. Action nubs help clean teeth and reduce tartar.
Ok now, the only problem we had here was ... he had to wear a cone shortly after we got this!! He seemed to like chewing on the center part for the time we could play with it before the cone. I have done a little tugging with him in the cone but not much. Both of us are a little incapacitated at this time. See: Neutering
November Update: After the cone came off we played with this toy but he has not been as interested in it as he was his original pull knot rope... which wore out.
Well, this one sorta became his "Indoor Flirt Pole". It has also become one of his favorites. He will either bring it to me -or- I will tell him to get his "Tug" and he will go find it and bring it. December 21st, 2015
 An Update  This has become one of his favorite toys -and- he knows it by name...'Tug'. We can ask him to go get the 'Tug' and he will look for it and bring it to us. He is still not all that hot on tugging but we can flop it around and he enjoys the chase. As stated above, it has become more of an Indoor Flirt Pole.

DuraChewTM Bone - Chicken

Designed for powerful chewers. Bristles raised during chewing help clean teeth and control plaque & tartar build-up.
Now this one will help in our current situation. I will be able to hold it for him and he will be able to do what he likes... chew on sticks and bones. Trying to keep him from chewing on our firewood but not having much success. Some of the dog sites say you should NOT allow them to chew on sticks... splinters. OK. Just tried it -and- he likes it!
November Update: Well only for a short time. He prefers the Rawhide bones. This one he chews mostly IF I am holding it.

 German Shepherd Dogs    Siberian Husky  


 Dog Training Guidlines     Intelligent Diversions & Creative Play    Manners & Training  


Wilderness Chicken Wild Bits

Key Benefits

  • Grain-free treats
  • Chicken as a high-quality protein source
  • DHA to support a puppy's cognitive development
  • Omega 3 & 6 to promote healthy skin & coat
  • No chicken/poultry by-product meals
  • No corn, wheat or soy
  • No artificial preservatives, colors or flavors
  • Made in the USA

Wilderness Duck Wild Bits

Key Benefits

  • Grain-free treats
  • Duck as a high-quality protein source
  • DHA to support a puppy's cognitive development
  • Omega 3 & 6 to promote healthy skin & coat
  • No chicken/poultry by-product meals
  • No corn, wheat or soy
  • No artificial preservatives, colors or flavors
  • Made in the USA

Canine Carry Outs Beef Flavor

  • Chewy treats have the look and taste of real beef and chicken, just like the treats you carry home in a doggie bag
  • With Canine Carry Outs, you don't have to wait for a night out, you can treat your dog every day
  • Vitamin, mineral, and calcium fortified
  • Made in the USA
Interesting... as I was creating/writing this page I found that there were lots of complaints concerning this particular treat. There were claims of Anti-Freeze and dogs going into seizures and some even dying. Then it was all said to be false alarms or unproven on:  snopes.com  

Canine Carry Outs Steak Flavor

  • Chewy treats have the look and taste of real steak with a chewy texture that dogs love, just like the treats you carry home in a doggie bag
  • With Canine Carry Outs, you don't have to wait for a night out, you can treat your dog every day
  • Vitamin, mineral, and calcium fortified
  • Made in the USA
Well, all did not go well with this one. My Dakotah decided that he didn't like them. He still likes the Beef flavor -but- NOT these.

Beggin Strips Bacon and Cheese

  • A 40-ounce pouche of Purina Beggin' Strips Bacon and Cheese Flavors brand dog treat>
  • The smoky meaty taste of bacon comes together with the flavor of cheese dogs love!
  • It's a perfect combination of flavors that's guaranteed to unleash your dog's uncontainable excitement!
  • DOGS DON'T KNOW IT'S NOT BACON
  • Each drool-inducing strip is made with real bacon.
  • Feed only as a treat to your adult dog no matter how much he begs for it at dinnertime. (See back panel for feeding instructions.) Proudly produced in Clinton, IA and Dunkirk, NY.
  • Made in the USA
This particular treat helped me train my dog to come ... better. Still needs work -but- coming to me a whole bunch better than he was. The "Mini-Biscuts" are great -but- they donot have the draw that these Beggin Strips and the Carry outs do.

Omega Paw Tricky Ball Chicken Liver Treats

Tricky Treat Ball Training Treat, so yummy it makes training easy. Best of all they are made with Quinoa and only 2.3 calories each so you can reward your dog often knowing you are giving them a handfull of health and not a handful of extra weight - Chicken Liver formula.
Made in the USA
The Treat Balls:  Smarter Toys  

Smart - Atomic

Brilliant - IQ

Genius - Buster
My wife says I have spent enough money on this dog! So when, and how many of these "Smart Toys" I get, will be dependent on my allowance.
Ok, December 1st, 2015, I was allowed to order one and I picked the middle... brilliant, large. More when we get it. However, I do believe that the biggest challenge will be the correct treat. Something that will be the correcrt size for the ball -and- something that he likes. So we will see "how brilliant" the owner is.
Also see:  Top 10 Most Fun Toys  
Treat dispensing toy. This one, however, is NOT adjustable. Wish it was cause it doesn't roll under the furniture. It is big but doesn't hold a lot of treats. The holding mechanism is inside the inside ball and is more or less a tube about one inch in diameter. I guess the "adjustability" is the sizes of the treats that you use. It will hold up to the mini milk bones... at least as far as I have tried. Not sure on how to clean it... yet.
Note: Read some reviews and others have made it "adjustable" with tape. May have to try that...
  • The new hol-ee treat ball from jw pet rolls, slides, rotates and out come the treats.
  • Product Dimensions: 6.5 x 8 x 9 inches ; 12.5 ounces

Busy Buddy Tug-A-Jug Meal

Key Benefits

  • Allows pets to see, hear, and smell treats
  • Clear base that can be filled with kibble or treats
  • Interactive play builds bonds between people and pets
  • Durable non-toxic material withstands prolonged play
  • Textured rubber wrap cleans teeth

Droolers Treats

Flavor options include:

  • duck
  • turkey
  • kangaroo
  • salmon
  • whitefish

Pros of Droolers:

  • Good value
  • No corn, soy or wheat
  • Grain free
  • No artificial flavors
  • Source of Omega-3 fatty acids
  • No chicken (a plus if you think your dog might have an allergy to chicken)
  • Manufactured in the United States
  • They keep the attention of my puppy who has the attention span of a goldfish
  • Droolers also interest my senior dog who is picky these days
  • Made in the USA

 April 11th, 2017 / 8:26pm   This morning I finally ordered some of these. They had a group pack on Amazon for only $14.00 + $4.87 shipping. The three flavors were/are: Duck, Turkey and Salmon. I find it interesting that I was looking at those 3 through another site and 'was' gona order them... till the total cost got up to over $23. I cancelled that order and looked elsewhere... this one 'popped' up. Coincidence???... or are they watching me???  Droolers Dog Treat Bundle  
Well, I was disappointed. My Dakotah didn't like any of them.


Smokehouse USA Chicken Breast & Turkey Breast Tendons

  • 100% natural treats
  • Roasted to perfection
  • Low in fat, high in protein, great for active dogs
  • No fillers, colorings, preservatives, chemicals or artificial flavorings
  • A healthy and tasty reward for your dog
  • Made in the USA

My Dakotah and his friends really like these. I am getting good training results from these treats..


The Kong and what to Stuff it with

Refer: Healthy Kong Stuffs

Here's a list of healthy treats to stuff in your dogs Kong :

  • Apples (no core, stems, or seeds)
  • Applesauce
  • Asparagus
  • Baby Food (natural)
  • Bananas
  • Blackberries (caution will stain)
  • Blueberries (caution will stain)
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Cantaloupe
  • Carrots
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Cheese (watch for fat content)
  • Cottage Cheese
  • Cucumber
  • Eggs
  • Flax Seeds
  • Green Beans
  • Honey (in moderation)
  • Kale
  • Oatmeal
  • Oranges (in moderation)
  • Peanut Butter
  • Peas
  • Pineapple
  • Pumpkin (canned)
  • Rice (cooked)
  • Rutabaga
  • Salmon
  • Spinach
  • Squash
  • Steak
  • Strawberries (caution will stain)
  • Sugar Snap Peas
  • Sweet Potato
  • Watermelon (seedless)
  • Yogurt (plain, lowfat)
  • Zucchini


   

  Basic Dog Obedience Training -and more.

I 'was' going to include info about the "Advanced Training" class that I signed up for -but- as usual, I changed my mind. The  Advanced Section   now follows this one below.   And in reference
to hand signals we have:  A Dog's Spectrum  

 June 20th, 2016/3:07pm  These are two types of dog training. The first one is very gentle, like an angel, and the second is a little harsh, like a Drill Sargent.
 Train Your Dog Like A Pro DVD    Dog Training Manners in Minutes NOT MONTHS!
 July 27th, 2016/7:28am  I was reading in the Training Section of  GSD Corner   and found this remark, from Rosemary, in the comments section:
You've got my brain thinking about how you can overcome this. Like us all dogs are different and that's the fun thing about training, it's not black and white, a lot of times it's improvising and finding ways to work with a specific dog.
This was in response to a comment left about a "Rescude GSD". I just felt it should be repeated for emphasis... It's NOT all black and white.

November 4th, 2016  I found this one that looked very interesting:  Training Your Dog  


Copied from:  Dog-101 Obedience Training   and modified to fit my experiences. When teaching new skills, keep training sessions short and sweet Like kids, dogs don't have long attention spans. There's no hard-and-fast rule, but an ideal average training session should last 15 minutes or less.

Basic Dog Obedience Training

Trying to control a dog who hasn't learned obedience commands is exhausting and often nearly impossible. But teaching him five simple commands will make a world of difference and provide a great opportunity for bonding. This statement, or one similar, is stated in all the dog training pages.

Keep in mind that puppies have short attention spans, and it is unreasonable to expect to have your puppy's full attention for a long period of time. Keep your sessions short at first to minimize distractions and maintain your dog's attention, gradually increasing the amount of time spent on training each day. Well now, I don't believe that this just applies to puppies. You can over work an older dog... even a human.


Sit

The sit is one of the easiest skills to teach. A puppy who sits on command is easier to manage until he learns more self-control. For example, when you teach your dog to sit when the doorbell rings, he is less likely to jump up on visitors when the door opens. Interesting concept...

How to Teach Sit

To teach the sit:
  1. Get on your puppy's level, either on the floor or in a chair next to him.
  2. Hold a treat close to his nose and let his head follow the treat as you move your hand up.
  3. As his head moves up, his butt will lower.
  4. When his butt hits the floor, release the treat to his mouth. Immediately praise him for his brilliance.
  5. Repeat multiple times every day. Pair the behavior with the word "sit."
  6. Even though I have included this, I have never trained a dog this way. Dakotah, my current companion, almost learned on his own. He was already sitting, or in the process of, when we gave the command. Treats we offered as rewards -but- not used to 'make' him sit.

Don't hold the treat so high that your dog tries to jump up for it. Instead, hold it in your closed hand just high enough that he stretches his neck. Every time his rump hits the floor, tell him "Good sit!" This is a great game for children in the house to play with your dog.

Repetitions are important, but your dog will tire of multiple reps. Rather, play the sit game with your dog in short bursts multiple times every day. Reinforce the sit in other situations, like mealtimes. Have him sit before you put his food bowl on the floor or before you open the door to take him on a walk. If he breaks the sit, remind him of his job with a quiet "Oops, try again" before you open the door. If this command is reinforced every time you ask your dog to sit away from the door, he will be less likely to bolt and run when the door opens. In this respect, the sit command can be a lifesaver.

   


Come

The come command is another useful tool for managing annoying puppy behaviors. This command helps keep a dog out of trouble or gives him a job to do. If he escapes the fenced yard or bolts out an open door, the come command can also save his life. This foundation skill is one that the two of you will use and refine for the rest of his life.

How to Teach Come

To teach the come:
  1. Clip a light line to your dog's collar and let him drag it around.
  2. After he is accustomed to the line, pick up the end and hold it as you follow him around the yard. As he gets used to this, he'll begin to understand that the two of you are attached.
  3. With your marker word in mind-"yes"-and a few treats, walk backward, encouraging him to follow along. When he twirls around and comes toward you, say "Yes!" and treat. Tell him that he's the cleverest dog in the world.
  4. Begin to pair the behavior with the word "come." Every time he responds correctly, praise and reward him. Make the come command a game that your puppy wants to play.

Don't get in the bad habit of yelling "Come come come come" multiple times if your dog does not respond. Remember the one-word, one-command rule: Once your dog understands the command, if he does not come the first time you ask, go to him and gently guide him to where you want him to be. If you stand in the yard or at the door and holler repeatedly, he either doesn't understand the command yet or you are expecting too much too soon.

Never call a dog to come for discipline. If so, you will teach him to associate the command with a negative consequence. If your dog is behaving badly, always go to him rather than calling him to you.

 Come to you - Every Time   Have your dog randomly check in with you many times while at play, especially with other dogs. Just call them to you, give them a treat and then release them back to play. That way, "come!" is not associated with leaving or being leashed.
Collar Grabs:
Practice grabbing your dog's collar when he comes to you, just before you give him the treat. This will avoid your dog taking the treat and run away to play the game again. It will also make your dog associate a "collar grab" with a good thing and not something to run away from and avoid.
 When You Call Your Dog It Should Mean FUN, FOOD, and PARTIES!  


Put a long leash on your Husky and call his name. If he doesn't come within a few seconds, then gently tug on his leash. Pull him toward you saying his name and "come." When he is near enough to you, give him a treat and repeat.

The training sessions shouldn't be more than a few minutes long in the beginning. You can increase the time and distance gradually.

Give your Husky a chance to respond before tugging the leash and only do so in case he doesn't respond to the command.

You can train without the leash once your dog starts responding to the command without needing you to tug on the leash. You should then start to train him out of doors where there are distractions. This training will take a bit longer. Use lots of treats and praise. You may want to change the treat occasionally to make sure that he is enjoying the training and that he doesn�t become bored.

Gradually, you can remove the leash and practice, practice, practice, with more distractions and new environments, until he always comes when called.
From: Be Dog Savvy: support@bedogsavvy.com email.

 Training a Hyper Active Dog to Calm Down    GSD Not Listening  

 July 27th, 2017   I really, really need to work on this more. I wanted to have an UN-conditional Re-Call by the time he was a year old. He is now 2½ years old and still does not come UN-contionally. I did NOT follow through properly with the long line. Watch for more reports...

   


Stay -and- Wait

The stay command is one of the hardest for puppies and young dogs to master. Asking a dog, who only wants to sit on his owner's feet or lean against her while she is in the kitchen, to stay put in another area is almost asking too much! Like the other basic commands, however, the stay is a lifesaver. A dog who is taught to stay won't chase a duck in a pen or charge a cow in a field. The dog who understands stay can also go on to more advanced obedience or rally competitions.

 December 21st, 201   Now I have included the 'Wait' command here, even though some of the "Professional" Trainers will probably complain. -But- they are close. The really big difference is... on a 'Stay' command the animal 'must' stay until a release command is given... EVEN IF you are not there. To me the 'Wait' command does not have that restriction. -But- as long as you are present the dog 'must' wait until given a release, either a break, or a come or some other established release.
And as usual, something has caught my attention that is the same -only different- and better.
 Teach the wait command   is a good write up on the subject.

The goal with stay is to teach your dog that his job is to remain right where he is until given further instructions.

How to Teach Stay

To teach the stay:
  1. Put a leash on your dog and have him sit comfortably next to you.
  2. Wave a flat palm toward his muzzle and say "Stay."
  3. Step in front of your dog, wait a few seconds, and then step back beside him.
  4. Reward him for not breaking his stay.
  5. If he moves, calmly say "Oops" or "Uh uh" and put him back where he was initially. Again, give the stay command along with the hand signal.
  6. Practice this multiple times every day in different locations.
  7. After rewarding him with praise and a treat for success, teach him a release word, or the word you will say when it's time for him to be released from the stay. A good release word is "okay."

   


Down

The down command is a good management tool that helps keep dogs out of trouble and out from underfoot. This behavior is often difficult for many dogs to learn because it's a submissive posture. A shy or fearful dog might have more trouble learning or performing a down, so go slowly while teaching this skill. Use a happy voice, lots of praise, and good treats while training.

How to Teach Down

To teach the down:
  1. Hold a very tasty treat in your closed hand and place it at your dog's muzzle.
  2. When he notices the scent of the treat, move your hand toward the floor. He should follow the hand that hides the treat.
  3. While the dog's head follows your hand, move your hand along the floor in front of him. His body will follow his head, and once he stretches out into a down, open your hand to let him eat the treat.
  4. Repeat multiple times daily and pair the behavior with the word "down."

If your dog lunges toward your hand, say "Nope" and take your hand away before he can get to the treat. If he tries to sit up, break away and start again. Never push him into a down.

Clever dog that he is, your dog will try everything to get to the treat. He's showing effort and should not be punished for thinking. Encourage every little bit of progress until he understands the command. After a successful attempt, always release your dog from the down and run off to play with him.

   


Walk Nicely on Leash

A dog who doesn't lunge or pull at the end of his lead shows your neighbors and friends that you have trained him to be a good member of the community. Additionally, a dog who walks attentively next to his owner is less likely to become fearful in new situations. And it is easier on the joints.

Your dog has already begun to learn the come command on leash and to understand that the leash connects the two of you. It's time to begin to train him to walk politely and calmly by your side.

 

How to Teach Walk Nicely On Leash

To teach loose-leash walking:
  1. Attach his leash to his buckle collar and say "Let's go" using your happy voice. Put treats in your left side pocket or a bait bag. I carry my treats on the right and my Water Rover on the left. Guess I'll have to switch -and- see IF it makes any difference. -- Got a back pack!
  2. Encourage his forward motion by patting your left leg. When he is close to your side, pop a treat in his mouth. Now then, I believe that this means you should have some treats in your hand already.?.?
  3. Every few steps stop to praise him for being in the correct place.
  4. When he forges ahead or lags behind, stop to let him wander to the end of his leash.
  5. The slight leash tension will cause him to turn around. As soon as you feel the slack in the line, say your verbal praise marker: "Yes!" Praise and treat when he bounces back to you.
  6. When he pulls, practice the "be a tree" principle, stopping all motion. His unwanted behavior will self-correct. Wait him out if he doesn't come back to your side. Well now, how long to wait?? I mean IF he just stands -or- sits down... then what??

Loose-leash walking takes a dedicated owner who allows her dog to make mistakes and has the patience to teach him the proper behavior. T-I-M-E

Once your dog can walk on a loose leash, begin to pair the behavior with the heel command. This means "stay close to my left leg whether we are stopped or walking." Take a few steps with your dog in the heel position, treat, and praise. Practice, practice, and more practice are required to teach your dog this command.

 January 17th, 2015   Just had to insert this one in here. On this day I had one of the most pleasant walks with my new puppy. He is now 10½ months old. He walk almost beside me like a pro. Didn't pull once around the whole block!!
Later: -But- that was only one rare moment. He is back to his overly energetic self.

Excerpt adapted from Breed Lover's Bernese Mountain Dog by Linda Rehkopf, © 2012 by TFH Publications, Inc.

And from  Polite Walking   "Loose leash walking means we are walking together with the dog within two to three feet of the person's side, either side," Fisher says. "He can sniff, look around, there is slack in the leash. You have to understand what a dog's field of vision is. Dogs by virtue of the shape of their skull and position of their eyes have a 270-degree field of vision, greater than that of a human. If a dog is somewhat in front of a person, he can still see the person."

 March 13th, 2016  Yesterday was a good day for 'Recalls' and today started out as a good day for 'Walks'. We just finished our morning walk and it was very pleasant. I have been practicing the 'Stopping' when he pulls and it is starting to pay off. So are the random treats. We are not heeling very well whilst walking -but- he knows the 'Stationary Heel' and he will do that. Right now I am more interested in the 'Leash Manners' than I am in the Regimented Heel walk. The walk is mainly for him and he should enjoy it... as long as he doesn't try to pull me around the block.

   


Training

This is a highly intelligent breed that is eager to learn and keen to please his owner so training will come relatively easily. In fact his trainable nature makes him the perfect choice for search and rescue or military roles as he is able to pick up simple tasks after just a few learning lessons and is known to obey within the first given command. Note that if he is not properly socialized the protective nature of this breed may present and he can become overly guarded and territorial of his family. Socialization training should take place when he is very young and training should be firm, consistent and focus on rewards for a job well done.

 December 3rd, 2015 / 4:16am   Nine+ months old and I have had him for 8 of those. Yesterday... well yesterday I was ready to give him away. I came home from work and my wife, with a friend, was working on the Christmas decorations. Dakotah was attached to the leash on the runner in our front yard. 'I' wanted him to be 'free' -but- to remain in 'our' yard. Upon release he almost immediately went across the street to the neighbor's house where his daughter was sitting on the front porch. When called, he did NOT come. I went to get him and he evaded me. I walked ... did NOT run ... after him amongst 4 or 5 houses on both sides of the street. Everytime I would get close he would take off. In disgust, with a few choice words, i went back to my own house. My wife then called him, with some treats, and he came to her. He also came to my wife's friend, then at the park he came to the others who were there ... BUT he would NOT come to me!! I have NOT called him and then punished. So, why, why will he not come to me when called?? Must I 'ALWAYS' carry around special treats?? The people he was/is going to usually have some kind of a different treat. Most of the time I only have the 'Mini Milkbones', which the other dogs love. Think I feed them more than my own.

 March 16th, 2017 / 6:01am   Now at two years plus, we are only doing a little better. When we are walking alone "most" of the time he is beside me but a little ahead. I don't enforce the regimented walk when we are just out and about. The walks are primarily for him so he should be able to enjoy them. And I am NOT of the "alpha - dominance" club. The "pack theory" has been praised, proven -and- disproven over the years since it was presented.
And now the  Pack Theory has been Debunked . Even by the originators.

Anywho, one of "My Dog's" biggest problems is ME!! I have NOT spent enough time with him NOR have I been consistent enough in my training. I blame part of that on my mentality. I forget the training aids, like a long leash when I go to the park -or- I forget what I have trained him to do and consequently forget to practice. He is a very smart dog and somewhat remembers what I have somewhat taught him. Excuses??? No not really... just facts which I am sure some who are reading this are guilty of.

Now then, one of the biggest problems, and benefits of past couple of years has been my "socializing" Dakotah. Problem?? Yes. In walking with the two companions that I aquired during the first few walks, I spent to much time trying to keep up with them -and- letting him run free with the other two dogs. The trying to keep up resulted in allowing my Dakotah to pull me along. I didn't stop and/or turn around to stop him from pulling... which I am doing now... when we are more by ourselves -and- he is getting better. Yes... you can retrain a two year old dog. Still pulling when I walk with the others -but- alone we are mostly pleasantly walking. The only benefit of all this was that he is more, or less, a friendly dog. He doesn't gush over strangers, and in fact is leary of them. On our lonesome walks he doesn't bark or lunge at other people. In fact he doesn't lunge of bark at other dogs... unless they get close. Then he wants to play. Course that depends on the other dog. My Dakotah is NOT a fighter and does NOT want to fight. Given the choice he will run away... which he has done a couple of time. Straight home!!

   

  Advanced Training - from Chet Womach

 December 17th, 2015/6:11am - Advanced Training   Now then, this started out as "Basic" but I have decided to include the "Advanced". They fit in together anyway, as far as I am concerned. I signed up for an "Advanced Class" by Chet Womach that starts the first week of January 2016. Well, that changed. After receiving the sign-on info, -and- the first lesson, I have decided to create a separate "Advanced" section. I will NOT include any of their stuff -but- will talk about it and make comments. This will be my 'personal' evaluation of the course. I had my wife, Darlene, sit with me to view the first lesson... which 'I' was not particularly happy with -BUT- she said it was good!! She, my wife, said that they are good for training 'me'!! Ok, we'll see...

Now then, as of this date my Dakotah will sit, lay down, come and stationary heel. He will go find his 'Tug' toy and bring it to me when I ask him to. He will 'wait' on commnd at the door. He will play fetch and retrieve. None of this is perfect -but- he won't even be 10 months old for 7 days. Yep, on Christmas eve.

So what am I expecting??? Just like Chet's headline on his ad page says,
         "To Own A Highly Trained Service Dog".
I will make notes on our progress as the class goes. It is 8 weeks long and will fit in with my desires. To have Dakotah fairly well trained by his first birthday which will be February 24th, 2016. The following are the items that he lists in his add: ( I added some refs to others.)

  • Focused On Pleasing You.      Focus and Impulse Control      GSD Not Listening  
  • Under Control At All Times.
  • Excellent On AND Off Leash.
  • Obeys Commands From A Distance.
  • Not Dog Aggressive.
  • Gentle With Kids.
  • Calm & Well Behaved In Public Spaces
  • Able To Ignore High Levels of Distraction
  • Is Quick To Learn NEW Commands
  • Responds To Both Voice & Hand Signals
  • Can Be Effortlessly Taught 50+ Commands
  •  Retrieves On Command  

I want his claim. A dog that I can enjoy... more. He is already great and wonderful -but- not well controlled. One thing that I know... time... time will have to be set aside and given to my "Puppy" or this will all be wasted. Time... Time.
         Companion Dog -or- Ultimate Dog Training   and  Hands Off Dog Training  
You will need a password for both... provided by Chet IF you sign up.


 January 3rd, 2016   I am slow at reading my e-mails and I just read them and found that 'Chet' had responded with the class info on December 31st!! I was even able to take the first lesson -and- it was as I thought... getting your Dog to 'Focus on you'! Which only stands to reason... IF the Dog is looking at you then he will be able to follow your commands. Now then, my disappointment was/is, the dog(s) that were being used obviously were already familiar with the routines -and- therefore was NOT being initially trained. I thought that they were going to demonstrate with 'UN-trained' dogs and show you what had to be done. This was NOT the case. The first dog was almost constantly looking at her whether she was talking, or looking at, the dog or not. I would have rather had a dog that was NOT already focused on the trainer for a demo. BUT Darlene liked it so we will keep it for a while longer. There were some good points in the Video -and- the lecture ... which we need to try -before- we complain anymore!


 January 4th, 2016   We took our early morning walk and then played a little and then I sat down at the Computer to write this. Dakotah ate a treat, played/chewed his bone and then went to sleep. Training will be delayed. On the schedule from Chet, this is supposed to be the first day. Treats and a  Clicker   will be required, so I will have to get those ready for later when he wakes.


 January 20th, 2016    Training German Shepherd Puppies   Even though he is not a 'Little Puppy' anymore I thought that this had good info... except for the crate training. I still don't like the crate stuff. Not to fond of the 'clickers' either -but- I will probably start trying to use one. I'm not to good at holding a treat and the clicker in the same hand. Hopefully there won't be a lot of training that involves that. So far it is only that first week of 'Focus' training.
And another, this time on  Gerberian Shepsky Training  


 January 23rd, 2016   Yep!! I'm behind. I blame work and interruptions. A lot of the interruptions are from my dog wanting to do someting whilst I am trying to figure out what to do!! I feel like a terrible owner. Guess that I am not as much of a "Dog Man" that I thought I was. I am also NOT consistent enough in my training. That I hope to change from this day forward.

We walked the block twice today. The first time was great until we almost arrived back at home. Then whilst stopping and talking to our neighbor, who lives right behind us, Bonnie came by with Tessie, a Poodle. We had met her before in the park so Bonnie -and- Tessie were "friends". We went across the street to the park and they played until this 'person' showed up with his two PitBulls. Both of our dogs stayed with us and we got them back on their leashes. This was extremely rewarding for Dakotah. I more or less bribed him a little -but- I'd rather break the rules than have him mauled by a PitBull.

Later in the day we practiced the commands and he did them all and 'I' even thought of a new one. "Go round". I get him to circle. Almost like chasing his tail. Come to think of it, that happens to be one of the things to teach him for that  "Circle and back up between my legs".  


 March 6th, 2016   Spoke with a "Professional Trainer" today, or at least my wife did. We had contacted her concerning our Dakotah's behavior at a recent Vet visit. We went for a 'Wellness Checkup'. Dakotah was not happy and he growled at the Vet which brought out a muzzle. The Vet recommended that we get Professional Help. That is the reason for contacting the Professional Trainer. The conversation with her ended with he is NOT aggressive. There are other reasons that I will not go into that could be the reason for this particular behavior at this time -but- we will let it rest.


   



The  Gerberian Shepsky   Yeah, I'm putting a lot of referenes on this WebPage... but that is what it was/is for from the beginning. And some of them are even repeats. Annnddd... I have included some verbiage from some of them... cause I don't want to loose it -and- I think it is good info.

  • Focus on rewarding the behavior you want, instead of punishing your pooch for undesirable actions. For example, instead of yelling at your dog to stop jumping up, reward them when they're sitting calmly to greet people. ok
  • Be confident and consistent! The cue for a particular behavior should be the same no matter where you are; don't use 'Come here!' at home and 'Bailey, come!' at the park, for instance.
  • Find your dog's currency. Each dog is an individual; for some, their greatest motivator is food, while for others, it may be a specific toy, praise, or even the freedom to play with other dogs.
  • Keep training simple and fun! Break up training sessions into brief periods of no more than 5-10 minutes at a time, several times daily to keep your dog's attention on you. Learning is hard work, so let your dog blow off steam with a game of tug or fetch afterwards.
  • Always end training sessions on a positive note, even if it means getting your dog to do something super easy that they already know how to do.
  • If you get frustrated, stop, end the session, and break down what you're trying to teach into smaller steps next time.
  • Don't use tools or methods that scare your Gerberian Shepsky or cause them pain or discomfort - it disrupts the bond of trust your furry friend has in you, and while some of those techniques might be effective in getting the behavior that you want, they could also make your dog fearful, defensive, and apt to avoid situations where they've experienced punishment before.


References:

     Teach Your Dog to Come When Called, No Matter What!        This is what I mean by Exrecise!  
     But He Has 100 Acres to Run        Leave it  

   

  Calming your Dog

I have, as mentioned many times before, a very, very, very energetic dog. He is from two breeds of working dogs. Don't know IF that is the reason for his, what seems like extreme, high energy or if it is just the luck of the draw. At any rate, "Chet Womach" has another traing series concerning "Calming your dog down", which is what I thought the "Service Dog Traing" was gona do. But it wasn't what I expected... nor did it accomplish what I wanted. Possibly my fault but I wasn't getting the results that I wanted so I kinda let it slide... which is also probably why I didn't get the results that I wanted. Now with this new one, he is offering it free via emails. We'll see.

 Dictator  

 Spoiler  

 Free Rangers  

 Emotion Coaching  

Refer:  Impulse Control - 6 keys    Impulse Control  

 October 28th, 2017/1:34pm  Well, here we are again folks, trying to get a "more relaxed" dog. He is now 2½ years old and a little more mellow but still kinda hyperactive. This article I found today, another accident, has some good info.
 How to Calm a hyper dog  
I am looking to get him almost service dog ready. Don't know it I am to late or not. I would also like to get him to wear his Harness. Perhaps this will accomplish both. I would like to be able to take him to a store and him be well behaved and not jump all around. In the article they call it "Installing an Off Switch".

 September 13th, 2016/6:38pm  The following is another item that I found whilst looking for something else! Not really sure where to stick but for now I feel that it fits here. "Calming" can be extended to many scenarios, and IF your "High Energy" dog is NOT calm, he will find ways to relieve himself.

Your dog needs entertainment

Dogs may dig to entertain themselves when they learn that roots and soil "play back." Your dog may be digging for entertainment if:

  • He's left alone in the yard for long periods of time without the company of their human family.
  • His environment is relatively barren--with no playmates or  toys  .
  • He's a puppy or adolescent (under 3 years old) and doesn't have other outlets for their energy.
    (At present mine is a little over a year and a half.)
  • He's a terrier or other breed that was bred to dig.
  • He's a particularly active type who needs a job to be happy (such as a herding or sporting breed).
  • He's recently seen you "playing" in the dirt (gardening or working in the yard).

What to do

Expand your dog's world and increase their people time in the following ways: (Notice what is at the top of the list)

  • Walk your dog at least twice daily. Not getting enough exercise is a leading cause of problem behaviors.
  • Redirect your dog's energy by teaching them to  fetch   a ball or flying disk and playing with them as often as possible. (A tired dog is a good dog.)
  • Teach your dog a few commands or tricks. Practice these every day for 5 to 10 minutes.
  • Take a training class with your dog and practice daily what you've learned.
  • Keep interesting toys in the yard to keep your dog busy when you're not around. Kong®-type toys filled with treats or busy-box dog toys work especially well. Rotate the toys to keep things interesting.

Refer:  Digging  

5 Signs Your GSD/Husky Is Bored
& What To Do About It


Altered by Chuck Taylor, owner of this page on July 27th, 2017.

#1 - Destructive Behavior

Is your German Shepherd chewing on shoes, the couch, etc.? If he is not teething, he may be bored. Too much energy and not enough outlets equals a nice chew fest.
He doesn't chew on the good stuff anymore, after all he 2½ years old now. He still brings in sticks and he chews his Rawhide.

#2 - Demand Barking

Does your German Shepherd bark at you incessantly? Guess what? He IS trying to tell you something. Mainly, "I am bored, play with me!" Don't give in to it, however, that will just reinforce the barking. Instead, wait for him to be quiet and then find him something better to do.
YES!! When it is time to go out for his walk he lets me know by "yelling" at me. That's what I call it anyway. I swear this dog can tell time!!

#3 - Inappropriate Herding

Aside from chewing, your bored Shepherd may decide the younger members of the family should be herded around the room. Or maybe the cats would like to be rounded-up. Your Shepherd may even follow you, biting at your ankles or nudging you in the small of your knee with his nose. This obsessive herding can be a sign your GSD needs a job!
We don't have any young members anymore -but- he does follow me around and he "bites" at my hands as I'm tying my shoes. Makes the tying a little difficult. He will also come up and take my hand in his mouth as to 'guide' me to get going. Hedoes this sometimes when we are out on our walks. Guess I am being herded.

#4 - Tail Chasing

Though there are other reasons your German Shepherd may do this obsessive behavior, including medical issues, pent-up energy can be one of them. If your Shepherd is doing this, take him to the vet. If he is healthy, it's time to find him a job.
So far, this has NOT been a reason.

#5 - Pacing

Since German Shepherds are a tending breed, they may display this behavior when anxious. But they may also pace when bored. If your Shepherd is not showing any other signs of stress, he is probably bored. Sometimes, this behavior is followed by "zoomies" where your German Shepherd runs full speed through your house. Clearly time for some exercise!
Yes we have had a touch of pacin and zooming at times.

Refer:  I Heart Dogs  

   

  My Training of My Gerberian Shepsky

Another training section???   Yep.   I have read, watched videos, listened to others and experimented on my own. Had the dog for over a year and a half and he still isn't fully trained. ... MY FAULT.   NOT ENOUGH TIME!!   NOT ENOUGH TIME SPENT WITH MY Dakotah
As usual, I broke the rules... got "Other" dog pages in here for referal. Wellll... I'm trying to get a Rin Tin Tin!! Without following and obeying all the rules... seems to be the same problem I have with my Lord.
 How to live with a High Energy Dog  <-- This is also referenced in my games section but I brought it here cause it has some excellent info for people with my kind of dog... and for me. I am having a hard time keeping up with my Dakotah. Trying to find things for him to do and that he will like is rather difficult... for me. He likes to run. -But- I am a 70 year old with a bumb heart. I walk 3 or 4 times with him everyday. We cover anywhere from 2 to 5 miles total in our walks. Usually, part of the 'walk' is him running free in the park or the "back 40". That is a stretch of 'desert' around the APS Power Lines.

 April 18th, 2017 - UpDate Now then, I have been researching on ALL dog training and NOT specifically a Shepherd-Husky. I decided to look for info on just them. That, and my own experiences, is what this section will be about. Other pieces of this page may creep into this section -but- that is the way I work. Also, you will find pieces of the WebPages, I reference, copied and pasted in here. Possibly modified to fit my/our situation. (Found book specific to GSD/Husky, see below.)
I had a reference to a training facility here and removed it. Why?? Cause they use "Shock Collars" and even though I at one time thought about using one, I have decided against them. Lots and lots of dogs have been properly trained without them and that is the way I am going to train mine. It may take longer but I do believe the results will be better and fantastic. I don't believe that they used shock collars for  Rin Tin Tin   or  Lassie  .
I have replaced that reference with Bark Busters.
-ANNDD--- we have the  Positive Dog Training Ain't Treats !!

Refer:  How To Train Any Dog Perfectly!    Joel Silverman -->Bond with your Heart; Train with your Brain
 Paws To Train Your Dog  

 August 4th, 2017  Well, here were are in supposedly "My Training Area". I am NOT all that experienced or knowledgeable on dog training. I need help and I don't have the money to hire a pro. So I bought another book. It sounded good and the little bit that I was allowed to read had some good information. I ordered it on my birthday, August 1st, and it won't be here until approximately the middle of the month. Soooo, all reviews will have to wait until then. But notice... it is specific to a Gerberian Shepsky.

In the meantime, and in addition to, I would like to mention another site and trainer. No I can not afford him/her but the info on their WebPage is outstanding and most of it is what I already thought of and believe. And 'try' to practice.
   I have linked to their resources page cause that is where the good info is, in my humble opinion. However, the other pages have good info and tell you about the training that they offer. No.. I am not being paid for this, but IF I had the money I do believe I would hire one of these trainers.

 August 23rd, 2017  Another book on the Shepskies. This one has even more info. It probably has a lot of the training that I have already found -but- it says it is for my Shepsky, Dakotah.

Unique in its approach and really helpful with its information - this book is a must have for any Gerberian Shepsky owner Written for the admirers, fans and owners of this wonderful breed, we are confident that you will greatly benefit from the techniques and information in this book. Composed by a long-term owner of the Gerberian Shepsky, this book is certainly a must have addition to your collection.

  1.  High Value Treats <-- Important!!
  2.  A Holistic Approach to Dog Training  
  3.  Lead by Example  
  4.  Bark Busters Training North Phoenix  
  5.  Tab Training Positive  
  6.    
  7.  How to train Your Dog  
  8.    
  9.  Use Your Clicker  
  10.  More mental stimulation  
  11.  Mental Stimulation & Exercise  
  12.    
  13.  husky shepherd mix  
  14.  Three Part Training Program  
  15.    
  16.  Gerberian Shepsky Training  
  17.  German Shepherd NOT Listening  
  18.  Training Shepherd-Husky  
  19.  Activities For Your Gerberian Shepsky  
  20.    
  21.    
  22.  German shepherd husky mix: Traits  
  23.  Agility Weave Channel  
  24.    
  25.    
  26.  German Shepherd Training  
  27.    
  28.  Training Positive  Tab289
  29.  Clicker Training <-- Another approach with some interesting ideas and tricks.
    "Training is something you do with your dog, not to your dog."
  30.    
  31.  52 Tricks to Teach Your Dog  

Click to Enlarge Via: TheDogTrainingSecret.com

 November 5th, 2016/8:53am  Went for our walk this morning at daybreak. It was the weekend so I met with the two other dog walkers that I had become friends with. I quit getting up so early durning the week so I don't see them everyday any more. Not only that I think it was somewhat bad for my initial dog training. On one hand it socialized Dakotah but on the other hand there was really no training. We met, the dogs were set free and they ran. Then came the problem of getting them back. Well, getting my Dakotah back. You are not supposed to let them off leash till they learn the 3 R's (Reliable Rapid Recall). Well, at re-leash time, maybe Dakotah would come and maybe he wouldn't. But that is another story. What happened today was both tragic and fantastic.

I got behind the girls becuase I was trying to keep Dakotah from pulling me all over. Anyway they turned to go up the street to Sarah's house and I continued on to OrangeWood and then to the "back 40". We walked to the other end and then started back. I wanted to skip this one exit because we just had some rain and it gets flooded. So I went to the next exit and this young girl was coming in with her '3' dogs! They chased my Dakotah and he ran for his life!! The 3 dogs came back but not my Dakotah. I continued on in the direction that he ran and called -but- he was no-where in sight. I waited for a bit and then decided to go home and see IF he was there and if not to wait and see IF he would come home. We have traveled over all this area since he was 3 months old and he is now one year and 9 months old. ... this was the tragic part.

Now the fantastic part... when I got home I found my Dakotah standing in an opened front door waiting for me!! Either I had not closed the the door properly -or- he opened it himself!! I could tell he was jumping up on the door and pawing it cause part of my wife's fall decorations were on the floor. So he does know his way home -and- will return there.

Here are 10 training techniques of yesteryear:   (refer  WOOFipedia. )

1. Train on a regular schedule.

2. Keep training sessions short-not over 15 minutes.

3. Have one person teach the dog initially; gradually involve other family members.

4. Work in quiet, non-distracting surroundings.

5. Be consistent (same tone, etc.) when giving the dog commands (such as "sit").

6. Encourage your dog when he performs correctly by petting him, speaking in a friendly tone, and rewarding him with a tidbit.

7. Don't rush training, have patience.

8. Teach one trick or skill at a time. As you teach new ones, review what the dog has already learned.

9. If your dog is not feeling well or is out of sorts, give him a vacation from training.

10. Never shout at or strike your dog. Your patience, understanding and kindness will be rewarded.

The following is an excerpt from one of Victoria Stilwell's pages that expresses my feelings on this alpha dominant thingy.

Contrary to popular belief, dogs do not pull on the leash while being walked because they want to be pack leader, top dog, alpha or dominant over their human. There is a much simpler explanation that does not give credence to the myth that dogs are on a quest for world domination!

Dogs love to be outside, and the walk is a stimulating and exciting part of their day, so the desire to push ahead is very strong. Humans do not make ideal walking partners since a dog's natural and comfortable walking pace is much faster than ours. Having to walk calmly by a person's side when the only thing a dog really wants to do is run and investigate his environment requires a degree of impulse control that can be very difficult for some dogs to utilize.

That being said, all dogs need to be taught how to walk on a leash in a positive way without pain or discomfort so that a walk becomes enjoyable for everyone.

Refer:  Pulling on Leash  

MYTH:  Training a dog with food is basically bribery. A dog should never be bribed into doing something for food but should obey their owners because they want to make their owners happy.

FACT:  Those who claim that food is bribery do not understand how powerful using food in training is.

Food has the power to help a fearful or anxious dog overcome his fears. When food is presented to a fearful dog in the presence of a stimulus that causes that fear or anxiety, the smell and taste of the food bypasses all other parts of the brain and goes straight to the brain's emotional center, the amygdala. Instead of feeling fear, the brain begins to be overcome with not just the pleasurable feelings that food gives but also allows the dog to focus more on the good sensation and less on the negative emotion. Food is incompatible with fear and is therefore a valuable tool in modifying a dog's fear, anxiety and stress.

Positive training isn't just about using treats though. I encourage people to use whatever reward motivates their dog, whether it's praise, play, toys or 'life rewards' like going for a walk or getting a belly rub.

The bottom line here is that a reward that motivates a dog to learn is a great training tool because learning not only makes a dog more confident and able to live successfully in a domestic environment, it also encourages mutual understanding that increases the human/animal bond. That is not bribery. 

Refer:  Myth vs Fact  


101 Dog Tricks

Trick training is a great way to bond with your dog, help him integrate into your family, and keep him mentally and physically challenged.

  • A wide range of tricks for every dog and skill level: beg, bow, say your prayers, find the remote, and more!
  • Step-by-step instructions to guide the trainer; troubleshooting tips to solve problems; and "build-on" ideas that encourage taking a mastered skill to the next level.
  • Complex tricks are broken down into smaller, easier-to-learn skills, with a brief overview of how the trick works and what to expect.

Table of Contents

  1. Groundwork - sit, down, stay, come
  2. Traditional Favorites - shake hands, fetch/take it, drop it/give, balance and catch, sit pretty/beg, speak, roll over, play dead
  3. Time For Chores - fetch my slippers, get your leash, walk the dog, newspaper delivery, say your prayers, kennel up, carry my purse, tidy up your toys, roll yourself in a blanket
  4. Funny Dog - honk a bike horn, peekaboo, doggy push-ups, act ashamed, limp,pickpocket pooch, play the piano, world's dumbest dog
  5. Modern Conveniences - get the phone when it rings, turn off the light, open/close a door, ring a bell to come inside, pull a rope, bring me a beer from the fridge, mail carrier, find the car keys/remote, push a shopping cart, bring me a tissue
  6. Let's Play a Game! - soccer, football, basketball, hockey goalie, hide-and-seek, go hide, which hand holds the treat?, easter egg hunt, ring toss, shell game, dog on point, 3-2-1 let's go!
  7. Jumping and Catching - jump over a bar, jump over my knee, jump over my back, jump into my arms, summersault/handstand vault, baton jumping, jump rope, beginning disc dog, disc vault off my leg
  8. Jumping Through Hoops - hoop jump, jump through my arms, double hoop sequence, hoop jump over my back, disobedient dogs-under the hoop, rolling hoop dive, through a hoop lying on the ground, paper-covered hoop
  9. Obstacle Course - tunnel, crawl, touch a target, under/over, teeter-totter, weave poles, climb ladder, roll a barrel
  10. That Dog Can Dance! - heel forward and backward, back up, spin circles, take a bow, place (circle to my left side), side (swing to my left side), leg weave, figure 8's, moon walk, jump for joy, chorus line kicks
  11. The Thinking Man's Dog - my dog can count, discern objects names, directed retrieve, directed jumping, pick a card from a deck, food refusal, find the object with my scent, contraband search, track a person's scent trail
  12. Love Me, Love My Dog - kisses, paws on my arm, head down, cover your eyes, wave good-bye

About the Author

Kyra Sundance and Chalcy, her Weimaraner, are world-class dog trick show performers and trainers, and are regulars at sporting events, fairs, and circuses. They've performed on TV shows around the world including The Tonight Show, Ellen, Entertainment Tonight, and Showdog Moms & Dads, and have trained on movie sets. The pair is nationally ranked in competitive dog sports.
The above copied from:   Leerburg.com » Books » Training Behavior » 101 Dog Tricks

I purchased a "Trick" book earlier and was un-happy with it. This time I looked for the "Table of Contents" and found the above. It looks very fascinating and should be interesting to both of us. Don't think that I will accomplish all of them -but- my wife was just remarking the other day that it would be nice IF Dakotah could, and would, pick up his toys. We have two toy boxes and it is cute to see him go to one and search for a toy... on his own. Now to see IF we can teach him to put them back.


Clicking with Your Dog

Overview

The book's clear illustrations and precise instructions from author Peggy Tillman have made this one of our most consistently beloved and highly rated publications.

What really sets this book apart is that on each two-page facing spread, you'll find first a discussion and description of the behavior paired with a full-page illustration of the behavior including step-by-step (click by click!) instructions for teaching it to your dog. There are over 100 behaviors taught in this book. View the Table of Contents.

Raise a great family dog

This book is for the pet owner who wants to raise the great, lifelong, family dog. It covers what you need to know including teaching good manners (covers extended stays), training handy skills and useful tricks (like picking up items), teaching you and your dog and to be safe and polite around other people and kids, and creating the right environment. In the introductory chapters you get a solid introduction to clicker training and a fast-start approach.

There are over 100 behaviors taught in this book, including:

  • Sit to greet people instead of jumping up
  • Walk on a leash without pulling
  • Come when called, even outdoors
  • Stay home alone quietly
  • Find the right place to go
  • Play hide-and-seek and other fun games and tricks
This book is a fantastic, stand-alone guide to training your dog. We highly recommend this book if you have new dog/puppy or are preparing for one.


Who knows how to train a husky? I can't get my dog to fetch!?

  Best Answer:   A husky "fetch"? You would most likely have better luck trying to find bigfoot!

It is a very rare Husky that will fetch. It is simply below them. Oh, they will chase the ball down, but their attitude is "you threw it away, I found it, so now its mine! End of discussion!" Sometimes that's when the games begin ..... you try to get the ball(?) and the dog will make you chase her for it. The dog will normally win.

Siberian Husky Property Laws
  1. If I like it, it's mine.
  2. If it's in my mouth, it's mine.
  3. If I had it a little while ago, it's mine.
  4. If I can take it from you, it's mine.
  5. If it's mine, it must never be yours.
  6. If it looks like mine, it's mine.
  7. If I saw it first, it's mine.
  8. If you are playing with something else and put it down, it's mine.
  9. If I am chewing something up, all the pieces are mine.
  10. If it used to be yours, get over it.
  11. If it's broken, it's yours.

My Dakotah fits this to a 'T'... even though he is only half Husky.

Well, this got somewhat proven. A friend 'teased'/'played' with Dakotah by giving him something and then saying 'mine'... give it to me. I thought it was okay until it started carrying over into our limited 'fetch'. We had gotten to the point where Dakotah would bring back the ball 3 or 4 times and give it to us. Now he was trying to keep it!!   Need to either quit the 'other' game or try to teach him the difference.

   

    RuffWear Front Range Body Harness   &   Martingale Collar
and TaoTronics Hands Free Leash

Talked about Harnesses previously... and whilst Dakotah was still a little puppy I purchased one of those "Freedom No Pull Harnesses". (April 24th, 2015) I used it a few times but I was not particularly happy with it -and- neither was my puppy. He started refusing to wear the Freddom Harness.( Now on the third outing he is refusing to wear the Ruffwear one!!) So I set the Freedom Harness aside and then when I wanted to try again... he had out grown it! So I waited again. He is now 29 weeks old, which is almost 7 months. September 24th will be his official 7 month birthday.
Update: Ok, my wife enlarged the "Freedom Harness" by sewing his previous puppy collar into it, and we got it on him... one time. But now, September 29th, 2015, he will NOT wear either!!!

 October 23rd, 2017
I had this lower in the page but moved it up to here because it makes more sense to get right to the subject. I have had my "Puppy" for over 2½ years -and- he will NOT wear the Harness. Like I said elsewhere, he almost put it on himself when I first got it. BUT he slowly started resisting when I tried to put it on him until he finally will run and hide if I even pick it up. The one and only, no the two and only, reasons that I can suspect that he does not want it on are; Number one: I have to much control when he is wearing the Harnes, and Number two: The 'Body Sensitivity' described below.
I will probably continue to experiment with ways to get him to wear it "Without" making him afraid, or untrusting, of me. I have seen many forms of trickery described in order to get the Harness on a dog but I really don't want to do that. Why am I pursuing this?? Because I belive Harnesses are better for the dog's health and well being. Annnddd... I like to leash hookup on the back where is won't get mixed up in his legs. Collars don't stay on top and the leash falls down in front and trips him. And I think that he looks good in it.


 Is it harmful to attach a leash to your dog's neck?  

Yes, some dogs simply hate harnesses whatever you do and however carefully you introduce it. Guide Dogs call it  'body sensitive'  .
And another reference to the subject of sensitivity:  Dog Handling  
As you can imagine they introduce their harnesses with great care, but there are one or two dogs every year who never take to it and get withdrawn for this reason.

 October 28th, 2017   Another UpDate and this one is the best. An actual video of the problem I am having -and- a way to cure it... hopefully. Search long enough and you can find the answers. My 'Puppy' could fill in for the other dog. The first part of the video shows the same scenarios that I have experienced with my Dakotah
Refer:  Introducing your dog to a chest harness - from fear to enjoyment  

My Dakotah just does NOT like a Harness!!!

 July 17th, 2017  Well I found this:
Dr. Michele Wan
Yes, it is quite possible that your dog doesn't like the strap going over his head. We see that a lot with dogs. You might be able to find a different type of harness that doesn't involve putting the strap over his head, or you could try offering him a treat for putting his head through the loop. -- This is what I said further down.

 May 2nd, 2017 - My last attempt at the Harness
I really want to get my Dakotah to wear his Harness. For all the right and wrong reasons. I found some info recently on the Web that I want to try. IF this fails then I will have to admit failure donate the Harness to a shelter and just continue choking him with a collar!! Not really on that last part but at times that is the way it seems... and probably is.

Best Answer:  You can try to get her used to the harness and use positive reinforcement which will hopefully make her feel neutral about it, making it easy for you to put it on.

This is what I would do. Sometime when you have a lot of free time in a day, on a weekend or something, start a mini training session. Put the harness on the floor somewhere, then using pieces of dry food (or little bits of cookie bones if you don't use dry food) ask her to sit next to the harness, lay down, give paw... whatever commands she knows and give lots of praise. Staying calm and positive is very key, dogs pick up if you're feeling anxious!

After a few commands, if she's doing well, try putting the harness over her head. Not even putting it on correctly, just draping it on her and do some more "sit" commands, rewarding with food to calm her down.

If she gets anxious when you add the harness, just be patient + don't try to force it. Eventually you should be able to put the harness on the correct way. Try having her wear it around the house for a while (an hour'ish) then go for a walk outside.

It may take days for it to work, but pe patient!
From:  Yahoo  
 October 17th, 2017   From:  Dog Forum  
But I wanted to comment on her fear of the harness. Are you able to say exactly which one it is, as there are quite a few "sensation" harnesses on the market? I suspect that, although it may not seem tight to you when fitted normally, it is obviously designed to close down or tighten when she pulls. Where the pressure is applied on her body depends on the harness......some squeeze the chest, some the throat, some under the elbows, and so on.

It may be that Zoe is not equating the unpleasant, and very possibly painful, squeezing sensation directly with her action of pulling, but simply with wearing the harness itself. When the harness brings its pressure points into action, it could be chafing, pinching, or snagging on her coat.



I found this description of another dog that fits mine to a tee... and some others.  Shiba Inu  
So my dog hates his harness. Or more specifically, he doesn't want it put on him - once it's on he's fine and happy.

Basically, when I figure it's time to go for a walk, I go get harness & leash. Dog realizes this and goes and positions himself around the other side of the dining room table where he's figured out it's easy to avoid me by just keeping the table between us. He won't listen to sit commands, stay commands or anything else - it's basically an attempt to keep as far away from me as possible.

Eventually, I manage to herd him somewhere where I can get ahold of him and put the harness on him (it's an Easy-Walk a RuffWear harness by the way). He turns his head to avoid it, but eventually I get the harness on. He then goes over to the door where he's willing to wait/sit etc. for me to attach the leash so we can go out.

This is really annoying. I thought dogs were supposed to be doing back flips out of excitement when it was time for a walk.

We introduced the harness with lots of treats. We treat him when the harness gets put on. He doesn't ever go outside without the harness, so you'd figure I've covered all the positive reinforcement bases for this thing. Yet he tries to avoid it whenever it comes out. And, once it's on - all is well.

Any suggestions on how to fix this neurosis?

We are very, very careful how we introduce the puppy jackets. Our supervisor does the first fitting and after that the dog wears it only at meal times for a week or more. Then they wear it only in very quiet areas they know well. If an adverse thing happens in the early days they can associate the two and 'blame' the jacket. Once they are used to the jacket/harness this no longer happens.
But body sensitive dogs don't take to the harness even with all these careful steps.
 Labrador Forum  
Borzois also boast having a high body sensitivity which means they are ultra-aware of touch as well as pain and discomfort they may be feeling. This is a two edged sword because if accidentally knocked into, a Borzoi may well whelp even though the knock was only very slight. However, their body sensitivity means they can be easier to control when they are put on a lead, although great care has to be taken when correcting them. It also means for such large dogs, the Borzoi tends to be extremely cautious around the home, being extra careful not to knock into things. These dogs also have very long memories and if they experience a bad experience, they are very likely to remember it for an extremely long time.
 Borzoi Body Sensitivity  

Anywho, I had a few instances in the morning and evening walks that really bothered me concerning his pulling and his neck. So, two days ago(Sunday September 13th), I ordered a RuffWear Harness. Got a good deal from:  Only Natural Pet . They appear to be a good company and reasonable in pricing. The Harness is supposed to be here in 3 to 7 days -but- it is being drop shipped from the manufacturer, which I thought was located in Vietnam, but turns out to be in Oregon. (Ruffwear's address is 2843 NW Lolo Drive, Bend, Oregon 97701, USA.) So it might make it by this Friday. Because of the cost, $39.99, I will train him to wear it. We won't go for walks unless he does... and that part is for his health. IF he pulls there will be no more choking and coughing and hacking.
Note: It arrived on Thursday... and I got 15% off with free shipping for a first time order.

The previous Harness appeared to be rubbing his armpits and the front attachment just twisted off center. Possibly my fault -but- I could not get it to function properly. So this time I decided to get a padded Harness. I searched the Web and this one seemed to be the most acceptable for mine -and- my puppy's needs. I will have more to say after I receive it and try it.

 How to put on a dog harness  

 June 23rd, 2016  The Martingale Collar: The above discussion box talks about problems with wearing a harness. As I stated there, the author's description fit my situation to the tee. HOWEVER, during the time from then, till now, I think I found out what the "Real" Problem is... my Dakotah doesn't like things pulled, or put on, over his head!   How did I find that out?? He backed out of his current collar and I tried to slip it over his head. He fought that just like he did with the Harness. I had to unbuckle the collar and then slip it on around his neck and he was ok with that. So getting this new Martingale collar on will be a challenge. It has been recomended to NOT leave it on unattended or use as a tie out. I do neither and he is always with us in the house. So it will be a replacement for his other collar. I can see the reason for NOT using it as a tie out. It would be constantly tightening around his neck, IF you used the chain connection, and probably to loose IF you used the other connect point. Martingale collars feature a simple design, but they offer numerous advantages over standard collars when it comes to your keeping your dog under control and behaving properly on walks. Course this is opinionated... like everything else.
Now then, all my agreeing and harping on no collars versus harnesses is out the window. IF you can not get the harness on... then it is meaningless. I will try again, but later. Maybe this fall AFTER he has exited his "Teenage Hood" and it is cooler. I am getting this collar, partly, cause of the back outs -and- for the training aspect. Also because it is "Ruffwear" and I have become partial to it (just like I like  HP )). Probably cause of the name -but- from my Web Re-Search Ruffwear has a good reputation.
Martingale description from:  Melly Collars  
                 
It is a shame that we have to tie up and cage these animals anyway. Soon we won't have to. The Lord is returning and the lion will lay down with the lamb. I believe that means we will be able to let our dogs run free just like the cats do now.

 Thursday October 13th, 2016 / 11:25am  Whilst looking for reasons, and cures, of Harness Hating, I found the following on  Yahoo  :

Yahoo Best Answer:  You can try to get her used to the harness and use positive reinforcement which will hopefully make her feel neutral about it, making it easy for you to put it on.

This is what I would do. Sometime when you have a lot of free time in a day, on a weekend or something, start a mini training session. Put the harness on the floor somewhere, then using pieces of dry food (or little bits of cookie bones if you don't use dry food) ask her to sit next to the harness, lay down, give paw... whatever commands she knows and give lots of praise. Staying calm and positive is very key, dogs pick up if you're feeling anxious!

After a few commands, if she's doing well, try putting the harness over her head. Not even putting it on correctly, just draping it on her and do some more "sit" commands, rewarding with food to calm her down.

If she gets anxious when you add the harness, just be patient + don't try to force it. Eventually you should be able to put the harness on the correct way. Try having her wear it around the house for a while (an hour'ish) then go for a walk outside.

It may take days for it to work, but pe patient!

So, today I took the Harness off the coat/hat rack and placed on the back of my computer chair. I will pick it off the chair and dangle it close to him and just mess around with it numerous times of the day. My PC chair is right on the way to the back yard where I am presently doing lots of yard work. We shall see.... (October 13th, 2016)
Nope!! He wants nothing to do with the Harness. No matter what I do he doesn't want to wear it. He is walking better on just the collar and leash so I will forget the Harness. He is just NOT a Harness wearing dog.(October 15th, 2016)

 Thursday September 17th, 2015   It, the Harness, arrived today whilst I was at work. I was excited. It was shipped in a plastic shiping bag. I had to cut it open... carefully. The only things in the bag were the Harness and the Packing slip. I looked at the Harness and decided, that the way it arrived, that it would be to small. I adjusted it using a soft sewing measuring tape around the inside of the Harness.

Now came the ultimate test... putting it on the dog. Well, all my worries were for naught. He almost put himself in it!! He did not run from me or shy away. He smelled it, investegated it and tried to put it on by sticking his head in it. Course it wasn't positioned right -but- just the idea that he was not afraid of it was great. Because of my experience with the last Harness I expected to have trouble with this one. Not so. After getting it on him, my wife helped me to make some more adjustments for a proper fit. Then we went for our first Harness walk. He did very well and in fact my fellow walkers noticed that he seemed to be pulling less -and- walking better with this Harness on... and I was not using the front connection. Only the top one on his back.

The second test was taking it off, hanging it up with his leash and then taking it down this morning and putting it back on him. He was a little hesitant at first -but- he let me put it on him and we went for our second Harness walk. On the first walk he was allowed to run free ... wearing the Harness ... but free. On this second walk we just walked around the neighborhood and he was 'hooked up' the whole time. No problem. After the walk we went in the house, removed the Harness, hung up the walking tools and went off to work.

 September 18, 2015/6:35pm   Well... what I was expecting... happened. He was hesiant this morning -but- this evening he wanted no part of it. He shied away from me when I tried to put it on him. I sat on the couch and waited for him to come but as soon as I reached for him, he took off. As a last resort I 'bribed' him with a treat which he had to stick his head in the Harness to get. He did, we hooked up and went for a walk in the park with his friend from across the street. We let them off leash in the park -but- when it came time to go ... he didn't want to. I finally got him hooked up and then he just layed on the ground. Almost had to drag him home. The trip was probably to short but my friend had to go for his sister's performance at our high school football game halftime. So now we wait for the morrow...
Well, later in the evening he acted like he wanted to go for a walk. -BUT- he would NOT let me put the Harness on him. Tried the treat bribe -but- it did not work this time. So, we did not go for a walk -and- he did not get a treat. Now we need to wait for the morning. Walks are finished -until- he accepts the Harness.

 September 19th, 2015/9:30am   Allllllrigthy now.... the continuing story. At approximately 4:40am I tried to put the Harness on Dakotah. He shied away from me. I tried everything, treats, playing with him and the harness, wearing the harness on my arm and looking through it like I was wearing it. Nothing would work. I did not chase him or try to force the Harness on him. He came up to me several times and tucked his head under my arm but would pull away if I made any kind of movement that suggested the Harness going on. At approximately 5:50am, I got it on him. It was one of those times that he came up from behind me and stuck his head under my arm. I was on the couch and he got up and circled behind me and then under my arm. Anywho, I was able to slip the over the head part over his head. After letting him settle a little bit I was able to buckle up the part that encircled his chest. We then went for a walk with our two walking partners.

After the walk I left the Harness on him in case my neighbor across the street called to go for a walk. He has a Heeler that is only two weeks younger than Dakotah. They play well together. He called and we went out again. It was good. Lots of running in the park.

Now the bad part. I left the Harness on again after the second walk to try and get him used to it. My wife got up and she was playing with him. Well he got across her body and his bony elbows were digging in. She tried to gently push/lift him off of her and he let out a yelp! She is not sure what happened but it appears that possibly something with the Harness cause a pinch. Well, I removed it from him after that and .... I'm not sure IF I will ever get it on him again. But then, I must stick with my word. I said that he will wear it or no walks... we'll see later this evening.

 Later:  I am wearing the Harness on my arm whilst sitting at my computer -or- watching TV. He has come around and let me pet him with that arm. He also started sniffing around the Harness and poked his nose in it a little. Think that I need to wear it a little longer. If necessary, for a week or more. Tomorrow I must be at work early so my "Dog Walking" will be by myself earlier than anyone else gets up on a Sunday. So, I will try to put the Harness on him and IF he refuses then no walk. In the evening, my friend with the Heeler, will probably want to get them together. That happened this evening and I took him via the collar and leash. Just because of Tomo, the other dog wanting to play. This is gona be tuff.
Tomo is short for Tomodachi the dogs full name. It means friend in Japanese.
Dakotah Meaning: Friend: Ally. Tribal Name.
This was totally by accident even though Jeff and I live across the street from each other. However, the two dogs live up to their names and have become close friends. Annnddd... they are only two weeks apart in age. Tomo the younger of the two.

 Tuesday October 6th, 2015   This was a day to be remembered... he slipped out of my $40 Harness!!! Guess what???? I got him to wear it, begrudgingly, but on Tuesday, Oct 6th, 2015 at around 6:20am he slipped out of the Harness!! I didn't think that was possible. He did a 'poo' in the park and I was cleaning it up. He was on leash and close to me as I was cleaning the grass. I felt the leash go slack. I thought he was coming closer -but- when I looked... the Harness was on the ground and he was walking around without it. How is that possible???
Note: I contacted Ruffwear and they said that the "Front Range Harness" is NOT escape proof. And I quote them: "Basically the dog lowers it's head and takes the harness off like a T-Shirt, pulling it up and over their head and shoulders." This is with the top, or back, connection that will help them pull it off if they back up. Their recomendation was, naturally, their more expensive WebMaster Harness. They refer to it as their "houdini-proof harness". Of course it is $20 more for an extra strap that goes around their smaller part towards the rear legs. I was worried about his front legs with the current harness and the previous one. But I think this one would make me concerned with, the extra strap, messing with his male parts. Besides, my main interest in this Harness in the first place was to have the 'NO' choking episodes. IF he can back out of it fairly easily... I'll just have to pay more attention when walking him -and- cleaning up after him.   I'll also have to teach/learn him "Sit and Stay" whilst I clean up his mess. I do NOT find fault with Ruffwear... but with myself for not having more control over my dog. Well, on second thought, the Harness shouldn't slip off so easily. Still, I need to have him sit and wait whilst I clean up his messes. Him pulling on me whilst I am cleaning up the 'poo' is not fun.

Browine&Bear TaoTronics
I had considered both of the above leashes and the 2 main reasons I purchased the TaoTronics one were because of the color and the handle height.

I am so happy with it (the Harness), and like it so much, that this is a free advertisement for them. Even though after success I had some troubles.
Later: Well, I still like it -BUT- Dakotah doesn't!! As stated above, he almost put it on himself when it arrived, but now he won't let me put it on him. It has become a battle of wills. No Harness -- No Walk. He does NOT like to be restricted. That was what I observed with the first Harness that I wish now I had not given up on. Later: He is wearing the new Harness... begrudgingly... but he wears it.
 June 24th, 2016/8:10am  An UpDate; He still does NOT like wearing the Harness. As stated above, and in the beginning, I have learned that the main reason is... my Dakotah does not like things going over his head... except my arms!! Found this out with his current collar which he backed out of a couple of times. Therefore, I have ordered a Ruffwear Martingale Collar. My neighbor, Jeff with the Heeler mix, has one and it not only looks good but I do believe he has had just a little bit more success in the "No Pulling" aspect. Should get mine some time next week.
(Received it June 27th, 2016)

  The Harness

  • This comfortable harness from Ruffwear® is a quick and easy alternative to the traditional collar, so grab your favorite furbaby and go find an adventure.
  • Four point adjustable harness with snap-buckle closure.
  • Padded panels at chest and back create even load dispersion.
  • Ruffwear logo patch at back.
  • Leash attachment points:
    Aluminum V-ring at back.
    Durable nylon webbing at chest.
  • I.D. tag pocket with hook-and-loop closure.
  • Reflective trim for added visibility.
  • Hand wash, air dry.
  • Size guide: measurement is taken around widest part of rib cage.
    · XXS: 13-17 in (33-43 cm)
    · XS: 17-22 in (43-56 cm)
    · SM: 22-27 in (56-69 cm)
    · MD: 27-32 in (69-81 cm)
    · LG/XL: 32-42 in (81-107 cm)
  • AND I add that it is not escape proof. But then, neither are collars.
  •  Only Natural Pet .

 April 12th, 2017 / 12:21am  Well, I am going to try the Harness route again. I have had it hanging on the back of my computer desk chair fot the past few months. I take it off and my Dakotah will run!! So, I am going to try the techniques that were demonstrated by  kikopup  . She was training a puppy and I am trying to train/re-train a 2 year old GSD/Husky. As said previously, he almost put it on himself when it first arrived. Now he wants nothing to do with it... which I am wondering if it is the "No Pull" feature that bothers him the most. It gives me more control which is not what he wants. In addition the over the head part. IF I can start getting it back on him I will just use the top 'back' clip. Don't really need the no pull aspect as much anymore but I like the back clip part that keeps the leash away from his front legs. Also IF he sees something to chase he won't injure his throat.  Choosing a Harness    Six Reasons To Use A Harness  

  The Martingale

Tired of your dog bolting and tearing your arm off every time a squirrel comes into view? The Ruffwear Chain Reaction Collar can help. With three-quarters webbing and one-quarter cinching chain, this collar cinches around your dog's neck to provide audible on-leash correction but, unlike many other cinching collars, the Chain Reaction has a distinct cinch limit so it can't get harmfully tight. Some dogs just need a little reminder to pull in the reigns, and this adjustable collar is a responsible way to deliver the message.

  • Integrated, limited-cinch steel chain offers audible correction for controlled leash walking
  • Tubelok webbing is thick, strong, and designed to withstand the use and abuse of a canine
  • V-ring leash attachment is made of a single piece of anodized aluminum for strength and durability
  • Quick-Ring attachment points allow you to easy add or remove dog tags for identification and keeps the tags away from the leash clip
  • Silicone tag-silencer keeps ID tags from jingling. Well, this may have to go. I like hearing the tags jingle.
  • Reflective trim improves the visibility of this collar (and your dog) at dusk, dawn, or in other low-light situations
  • Item #RUF0100
  •  BackCountry  

Properly fitting a collar to your dog depends on the size of the dog. For dogs under twenty pounds, use your pinky finger to check the collar; for dogs over twenty pounds, use your first two fingers to check the collar. First check to see how much you need to adjust the collar. Slide your finger(s) under your dog's collar. You should be able to fit two fingers (pinky finger for smaller dogs) under the collar comfortably without having excess room (Note: keep your two fingers side by side, not on top of one another). If you cannot fit your finger(s) under the collar, you need to loosen the collar; if you have too much room between the collar and your dog's neck, you need to tighten the collar. For harnesses, the same principle stands. If you can slip two fingers under all the straps of the harness, it is fitted comfortably. For growing puppies, you will want to check the collar weekly to make sure that the collar is not getting too tight. If you are having trouble fitting your dog for a collar or harness, or if you have more questions, contact your veterinarian or dog trainer.
Refer:  Correctly Fitting  

Also Refer:  Are they any use??    RuffWear    Traing Harness Tips  

  Hands Free Dog Leash

  • HANDS FREE WAIST WEARING: Enjoy a hands free dog leash belt that lets you freely use your phone or read a newspaper without feeling restrained by your dog�s movements
  • EXTRA HANDLES FOR EXTRA CONTROL: Guide your dog without breaking stride via the built-in waist handle; get a more direct control and prevent dog fights with the collar�s handle
  • STRONG DUAL BUNGEE CONSTRUCTION: Benefit from a dual spring build that�ll absorb all jerks and lunges from dogs up to 150lb; reduce back strain and the risk of getting hurt, dog training leash
  • FIT FOR ALL DOG SIZES: Experience an adjustable hands free dog leash belt that stretches up to 63" to suit all dogs no matter their size
  • RELFECTIVE SITCHING FOR NIGHT USE: Benefit from extra safety at night with the luminous reflective stitching; enjoy a hands free dog leash for running that provides added visibility

 February 20th, 2017  Ordered this on Saturday and received it on Monday. That  Amazon Prime   is pretty good. I really didn't expect it till Tuesday or Wednesday because of week-end ordering. Anywho, I got it and am very happy with it. The dual handles -and- the length(which is adjustable) are just perfect. Leastwise they are for me.

 April 12th, 2017   I am very happy with this new leash... and I know this will sound strang -but- I do believe that my Dakotah likes it also. It seems that it takes an Electronic company to design a good leash. The handles are perfect. They are raised up so that you can easily slip your hand(s) into them. The positioning is also great. I have had better 'luck' and control of my dog with this leash than anything else I have tried... except the Harness which he won't wear anymore! The options to hook the leash at either end is also good. If you want full control, you hook it up with the one handle close to the collar. If there is room for more freedom then you reverse it and hook it up so the 'end' handle is at your hand. The 'middle' handle is just for general control and 'walk' training. With the 'extra' 'D' rings you can create all sorts of combinations to get control and freedom for your dog. Also allows you to 'tie' him up on short and long lengths temporarily.
One of the better parts is also the 'only' problem I have found, and had, with it. The "adjustable" waist band. It 'loosens' as the dog pulls on it. My fix was/is a saftey pin!

 


 June 28th, 2016 / 6:44am   Well, I got the Martingale Collar yesterday and still have not put it on him!   Why??   Cause I want some time to be with him when he is first wearing it. Because of PC repairs, pool maintenance and other things, like him sleeping, the proper time has not been available.

 June 29th, 2016 / 7:01am   Put the new Ruffwear Collar on him this morning. I have to go to work -but- my wife will be home all day so he will be monitored on his first day of wearing it. It wasn't as much of a struggle as I thought it would be. He was just his 'usual high energy self'. We had just gotten back from our morning walk. Dakotah and Kiko were running and chasing each other. It was hot and muggy. Thought that would 'tire' him out. Nope. He laid by the fan for about 5 or 10 minutes and then he was ready to go again!! Anywho, he has the new collar on.

It is only a few minutes later and I tried to take him for a walk wearing his new collar. He walked right beside me -but- was lagging a litte. He didn't really want to go for a walk. To hot and muggy!! So we went back home and in the air conditioning and he just laid down. Have to wait till this evening and try again.

 July 11th, 2016   Well, found another possible reason to NOT leave it on him... Loosing it!! Yep, gone. In our walk this morning Dakotah lost his new Martingale Collar. You must be careful to NOT get them to tight -but- looks like you need to be careful to NOT get them to loose. We looked all over and could not find it. I thought that it was 'lost forever'. But two days later one of my neighbors appeared at our door with the collar!! He said he saw Dakotah's name on the tag and then knew where to take it. Another reason for having dog tags.

   

  The Parks

Well, I just decided that I need to start taking 'My Puppy' to one of the local 'Dog Parks'. A park, or at least a section of it, devoted to dogs. Primarily an off leash park. Now then, Dakotah has been ok with almost all the dogs that we have met. A couple of 'Pit Bulls' were a problem -and- there is the problem with Kiko. Not really a problem, but it might become one. Their 'play fighting' seems to be becoming more intense as Dakotah is getting older. In 3 days he will be 11 months old. Who rules the roost seems to be more and more of a situation. Kiko is two years older than my Dakotah. So, that is one of the reasons I am looking for another avenue for My Puppy's outlet to let off steam and energy. According to the Web, we have 14 Parks here on the West Side that have facilities for dogs -and- comforts for humans.

 Pioneer Community Park   This one is listed first cause, I believe it is the closest. It is located at:
     8755 North 83rd Avenue just south of Olive Avenue.
     in Peoria, Arizona
      4.3 miles
Now then, my biggest concern here is the parking. Haven't been there yet -but- it looks like a paved lot that we will have to walk across to get to the dog portion. Ok, in the Winter -or- early morning -or- late evening -but- NOT in the Summer. As I confessed earlier, I made that mistake with my Tipper, and I am NOT going to make it with this one.
Later: Hmmmm... this one is closer but the Gateway Park is nicer in that it has some shade trees and the grass, at Gateway, even though it was also dried out, seemed 'nicer'. I will probably use Gateway over Pioneer.

 Gateway Park  This park is quite a bit further away and in the opposite direction. However, it has a cafe on it. It is located at:
     10100 N. El Mirage Rd.
     in El Mirage, Arizona
      3.9 miles
From the looks of the map, it also will be a challenge in getting to the park when it is hot.
Later: Well, I visited this one. The cafe is right across thedrive from the Dog Section and the dog part was kinda nice. Met a young lady named Jasmin with a female Dobbie named Kiga. She didn't really want to play with my Dakotah. She was a month younger. Dakotah naturally had to "read the news". He sniffed the whole area and then decided to run. His biggest attraction was the smaller dogs... in the other section. They have a section for small dogs and another for the bigger ones... separated by a fence. All in all, a nice friendly visit.

 Scotland Yard Park  Doesn't appear to be to far away. It is located at:
     9251 W. Scotland Avenue
     in Peoria, Arizona
      5.5 miles
The parking is interesting. It is on one side of the park and the dog area is on the other side. Leastwise that is the way it looks on the map on their WebPage.

 Northern Horizon   This is a toss up between the first one for closeness. It is located at:
     7800 N. 63rd Avenue
     in Glendale, Arizona
      6 miles
Well, this one would definately be for running only. They don't allow treats... -but- it turns out, neither do any of the others. Stands to reason, could cause problems with the other dogs either because of health or jealousy causing a quarrel.

Refer:  The Parks  

   

  Neutering

This day, Thursday Fixed - October 8th, 2015 - 32 weeks, is such and important event that I am giving it, its own section. My puppy, Dakotah, is to loose his manhood. We dropped him off at the Vets, a real nice lady Vet and a real nice office. She offered a 'Rabies' shot for $20, a free Manicure and a 'Micro Chip' for $45. That seemed to be the going rate, in fact I do believe that her Rabies shot was cheaper. Had heard that it would be $30 in other places. So, anyway, we agreed to the whole list of 'extras'.

This was my first time at this particular Vet, although my wife had been there before with our cats. We get certificates from Maricopa County Animal Care and Control. They have specific Vets that we can go to, and they will then pay the larger part of the fee for spaying and neutering. The name of the Vet's office is  Katz & Dogs Wellness Clinic   in Glendale, AZ. And the Doctors name is Dr. Tanja Katz. She is great.

 After the Op   He was ready before we were. I had a heart doctor visit and my doctor was busy and made us late. When we arrived at the Vet we found him already out of the kennel and waiting at the inside glass door. He looked ok... BUT was wearing this cone around his head. He immediately recognised us and put his cone against the glass. We didn't see anyone and I cracked the sliding glass door open and hollered "Hello". The doctor was gone but there was a tech that came to greet us. She said that we were the last patients and that she, by practice, let's the last dog out of the kennel while waiting. I thought that was very nice and wonderful.

Now we are going to have a week of hell. A "High Energy Dog" restricted by a cone!! I certainly am glad they don't put those things on us humans. He seeams to be adapting to it fairly well. Of course right now he is still a little drugged up from the operation. We can tell that it is an anoying device. He keeps bumping into things, walls, furniture... etc. But, he learned quickly how to eat and drink out of his bowls. They fit just nicely inside his cone. My wife put a cup down for him to drink out of and he drank a cup and a half. Then carried the cup off to another room!

 Friday - October 9th, 2015   The second day... well, the collar/cone came off for about 2 to 3 minutes. Darlene, my wife, was giving him some of his pain medicine and he backed out of it. The collar is just big enough to slip off. No I will NOT go into any explanations, at this time, for the collar being to big. That will come later... when I understand it. Anywho, I was not home when this happened. I guess he liked the freedom -AND- worst of all his nose went for the surgical area. Fortunately my wife got him before he got there. She put the collar/cone back on and he got upset. Don't blame him.

He is, and has been since we picked him up, very active. Here on the second day, in the evening/night it is like he never had an operation. He is roaming around and bumping into things and going outside with the cat like nothing was ever wrong!? Dr Day, my other vet, has a discription of this but I just can't remember it exactly. Something like, they feel the pain, but just don't complain about it or wallow in self pity.

 Saturday - October 10th, 2015 - 3rd day   Well, here we are on day 3 and he is rearing to go. I started looking on the Web for how to handle a "High Energy Dog" wearing an E-Cone. Found some alternatives -but- as usual do not have the money to purchase one. The E-cone was free from the Vet. Well, it was included in the price of the operation. And IF you are thinking about leaving it off ... please read the stories at the site I refer to below. Money is only minor... the pain and suffering of the animal is greater than the few days of discomfort that he/she will experience whilst the wound is healing... IF you leave it off and he/she gets at the wound. Taking the collar off before a proper 'go-ahead' from the vet invites blood, pain, infection, complications, extra expense, bad juju. Even after the wound mostly closes, excess moisture from licking can increase swelling and slow healing.

 Sunday Broke/Monday - October 11-12th, 2015 / 3:55am   Days 4 and 5. Expensive days!! We had our "puppy" to the Emergency Animal Clinic ... twice! Once by my wife only while I was at work and then again later in the evening with both of us. Now in the "Post-Operative Care Instructions" given to us by the Vet performing the surgery it was stated:

  • Call to schedule a re-check if your dog's incision becomes swollen, appears to open or have a discharge.
  • If scrotum looks to be filling up, like he had not been neutered, patient needs to be seen as soon as possible.

Well his 'junk' got swollen... looked like a lot to us. Based on the two statements above we were concerned. Not only that, he was crying a little... Whimpering... So, $500 later we are in the same position that we were in before we went to the clinic. The dog's scrotum is still swollen and we were told that there was nothing really wrong with him. However, we were sold some more medicine and some tranquilizers. And we are to contact the Vet who performed the operation the next day. All of this happened on a Sunday... naturally. Monday the Vet's phone lines were down, at least two of them, so we had a difficult time contacting her. She received the reports from Emergency Clinic and told us to just continue the medicine and to put ice on his swollen area.

 Hematoma & Ligature  Those were the the two medical terms used to describe his "Problem". In surgery or medical procedure, a ligature consists of a piece of thread tied around an anatomical structure, usually a blood vessel or another hollow structure to shut it off. In his activities one got broken loose!! A hematoma is a localized collection of blood outside the blood vessels, usually in liquid form within the tissue. It got so big that it looked like he still had his testicles!!
Refer:  Scrotal Hematoma    Neuter Aftermath  

 Tuesday Repaired - October 13th, 2015   Day 6 - Well now... this turned into a bigger ordeal than was expected. I made this its own section, just because it is special, not realizing that it was gona get this full of verbiage. We contacted the Vet again and he is back at the Vets to get his 'Scotum' removed. It is filled with blood and keeps filling. He is hurting. Somehow it got an Internal infection so he has to spend the night at the Vet's office.

 Wednesday Further Maintenance - October 14th, 2015   Day 7 - Well, we have a situation. Dakotah has a device with two drain points attached to him and I must go in to the hospital for a heart check an a possible stent placement. So, the Vet has agreed to keep him till Friday when the drain device gets removed and I am, hopefully, out of the hospital. He gave them a laugh this morning. He was NOT in a cage or kennel, just a room. He got out of that and then somehow opened the sliding door to the lobby... which set off their alarms. The alarm company called the Vet and said they called the police. It was 6:00 in the morning. Before she could get dressed the police called her and told her that it was just a dog rampaging through the office. She realized that the "Burglar" was my Dakotah and didn't rush to the office. She told us that he hadn't damaged anything, so we are not sure what the police were referring to in their description of the incident. Anywho, she was laughing when she told us and said they all had a good laugh over it. I was just glad to hear that he was not being confined to a crate or kennel. I don't use one. Never have and never will.

 Thursday/Friday The Pick up and Home - October 15-16th   Days 8/9 - Today, Friday, is the day. I get my Dakotah back. I almost have tears of joy when I write this. However, I just had a catheterization and a balloon angioplasty and I must be careful in protecting the entry point in my groin. He likes to jump up on us and I have not been able to train him not to. That is coming -but- has not been established... yet. At any rate, I will be very happy to get him home again and hopefully he will be glad to see us. Have not heard from the Vet yet... 9:34am.

 Saturday/Sunday The Weekend - October 17/18, 2015   Days 10/11 - Well, these two days were frustrating for both of us, Dakotah and me. Neither one of us could do much -and- have you ever tried to keep a high energy, hyper active dog satisfied?? I am learning more and more everyday how what I have been reading is totally true. I have a dog that wants to do something ... constantly. He does NOT like sitting or lying around -- even after he has just had an operation and an infection from it. He doesn't know he is supposed to rest.

 Monday The Healing Process - October 19th, 2015   Day 12 - Had to report for work at 5:30am today and I was NOT allowed to drive. My wife took me to work and we decided to take Dakotah with us. She was not getting out of the vehicle and it would be a nice little outing for him. However, on the return trip home, for my wife, he hurt her arm trying to get out of the truck before her!! Fortunately my Landscaping neighbor was out getting ready for work and he was able to help her. Later she came back to get me without the dog and we came home with Lunch. He, as usual, was glad to see both of us. Still need to work on that jumping -but- everything is rather difficult with that darn cone on.

Speaking of which, the cone, I took it off of him for a short time period after I got home. As it turned out, about 12 to 13 minutes. I rubbed his neck and he laid his head on my foot. He went to sleep, or almost, cause his eyes were closed and he was relaxed. No Cone! -But- then he woke up and possibly from itching, or whatever on the operation point, and tried to get to it. I had to put the cone back on and he went off into the master bedroom and jumped up on the bed and laid down. In fact, that is where he is now. He has to wear that cone until this Friday and possibly a few days more... NOT gona be fun -but- he let me put it back on him. So far we are lucky, we have a gentle and co-operative dog... like our previous one, Tipper.

 Tuesday/Wednesday More healing - October 20/21   Days 13/14 - These were harried days, or at least I thought so. One of them I was supposed to be off but I got called in. During this time I tried to give him some time without the cone -but- they were ALL short. That 12-13 minutes on Monday was the longest... ooops, no that is a lie. I tried, on Sunday, to walk him 'without' the cone. He loved it. He could smell the grass and rocks. -But- it got cut shorter than I was anticipating. We went around the corner and crossed the street to get to the park, I was gona just walk him around the toys, but he turned his head and tried to start messing with the operation. I stopped him and he tried again... and again, so we headed for home. I had to watch him and stop him from licking a couple of more times, but we made it home ok. Cone back on and there was NO harm done. I am amazed at how he will let us put the cone back on! But I do believe that he is healing and I think that is why he is trying more and more to get at the operation point. You know how things itch when they are healing?? My poor puppy is experiencing that and can not do anything about it. I have scratched his ears and the sides of his neck a few times. He was 'scratching' the cone.

On Wednesday, after work, I was trying to think of what I could do with him and then I couldn't stand it. Friday was a long time away, and I was going to have to work on that day. So, I asked my wife to call the Vet and see IF she would see him on Thursday so I could be there. The Vet said yes!! I was excited. Like the day before Christmas. I'm not wearing the cone -but- I am miserable about it for both my puppy and I. Just can't wait to get it off -and- maybe tomorrow.

 Thursday At the Vets - October 22nd, 2015   Day 15 - We are to see the Vet today at 8:20am. Hopefully, the stiches will come out -- and the cone off!! Course Darlene reminds me that there may be a day or two of recovery after stitch removal that will require the cone. They lick themselves in that area a lot even with out an operation.
8:45am - We are home with stitches out -AND- cone off!! Everyone is happy, especially Dakotah. Now we want to get into some serious training that involves some activity and thinking ... for both me and him.

 Thursday Back in the Park - October 23rd, 2015   Day 16 - And probably the last entry... I hope... for this section. Only way there will be more is IF something goes awry with his operation area. At 5:06am this morning we went for a walk with Sarah and Sundance. Last evening we saw Julie and Kiko and Jeff and Tomo. So he is back with his buddies. -And- his operation still looks good. Had to 'chase' him down to get the Harness on. Don't understand it... I had less trouble putting that darn cone back on him than I do getting his Harness on. You would think that he would love the Harness cause that means going for a walk. I'll have to really investigate. Course anything further will be reported in the Ruffwear Harness section.

   

  Just Comments

I found the comments here enlightening. I copied the first little bit and the rest can be found at the reference. GSD = German Shepherd Dog. I prefer GS for German Shepherd, -BUT- I found that I am wrong. They ARE referred to as German Shepherd Dogs!!

Okay. Before anything else, never refer to your dog as a 'Germanian Shepsky' or a 'Gerberian Shepsky' or whatever else people like to call that. You don't have that. You have a GSD/husky mix.
Second: you picked a hell of a mix for your first 'big dog' experience.
Both of these breeds are high energy and will need a LOT of stimulation. Both breeds were bred to move - for GSDs, that means tending the flock all day, and for huskies, that means running with a sled across the arctic all day. These dogs both NEED exercise and a good bit of it - a simple 30 minute walk every day will probably not be enough to satisfy your pooch. Your dog is probably going to want to go running, biking, or hiking with you when he's older and you should be willing to entertain these desires. A tired husky is a happy husky, as they say - I'm sure it's the same for a GSD.
The first line in the next paragraph has a link to an interesting picture... concerning shedding. You might want to peek.  Just a Shepherd Husky Mix  

The following section was 'borrowed' from the comment section of:  Tips on Walking Dogs .  I, like the Author of this comment, do not agree with the use of the "choke" or "prong" collars. They should never be needed.
As modchidance stated, the best way to keep a dog from pulling is to stop every time he/she pulls. As someone who has tried both the traditional 'hard' method and the newer 'soft' method (brought to fame by Victoria Stilwell), I can honestly say that the soft method of training works best and does not break the bond between you and your dog (in fact, it only enhances it). While I was using the choking technique on Jake, he pretty much avoided me when off leash, but now that I'm using a kinder approach, I'm usually the first person he greets when I visit him!
Unlike what most people think, most dogs don't have dominance issues, we have ignorance issues. Things like jerking on a leash when a dog misbehaves, pushing the dog around to make him sit, lie down, etc. and kneeing the dog when he jumps up are things that, in the dog world, are only done by unsocialized bullies. Things like this shatter the bond between dog and man and force him to obey out of fear, and not out of love like he should. Instead of pushing his rump down to make him sit, simply hold up a treat. Any dog will eventually sit, in fact, most will sit within seconds of seeing the treat. Instead of kneeing a dog that jumps, turn your back to him and cross your arms. This will make you boring and the dog will probably calm down or walk away to find something more interesting, either way, he will stop jumping.
Dogs are well aware that we are not dogs, therefore they do not usually attempt to dominate us. If a dog does display dominance aggression, the dog is unsocialized. The best way to help a dog with this problem is to arrange meetings with other dogs and other people. Walk the dogs past each other and reward them when they calm down. Once again, if the dog misbehaves, simply stop until he loosens the leash himself.
Another big no-no is dog parks. If you want your dog to get sick or get in a fight, go ahead and bring him. Keep in mind that there are still diseases that have no vaccination, and vaccinations don't always work.
I'm not saying that there aren't bad dogs, but I am saying that most of what we find unacceptable for our pets to do, dogs find perfectly normal. When you think about it, carpet is very similar to grass, and puppies don't distinguish any difference until it is pointed out. If your best friend was two feet taller than you, wouldn't you jump to try to get closer to him? If your natural pace of walking was faster than that of the one holding your hand, wouldn't you tug a little? Before you write any more about the wonders of prong and choke collars, at least consider that I was once a hard-or-nothing trainer, but now I've changed and I can-and will-say that soft is the way to go with both honesty and experience.
If you would like to learn more about soft training, read Victoria Stilwell's 'Train Your Dog Positively' or watch her TV series: 'It's Me Or The Dog'.

   

  Teach your Dog 100 English Words

Alllllllrighty now...I just purchased this 'education' and have read the first 45 pages. It makes sense -AND- I believe some of the best advice I have been given so far.
Later and up to page 162. Still happy with it and unfortunately one of the things that I learned got broken the very next day. Routine. I had been taking Dakotah for walks every day at around 4:45am. Both of my co-walkers work. Well, I have a "part time" job at McDonalds. The unfortunate item came with my schedule. I had to be at work at 6:00am!! My wife said he howled and ran around the yard and the house. He missed his walk. -AND- it appears that this may happen every Wednesday.

Well it did. The fix was/is... go for a walk around the block at four o'clock in the morning!!
The real fix was a schedule change. I 'convinced' them that I could not be there before 7am.

Do any of these behaviors look familiar?

Owner correcting his dog for a housebreaking accident
Housebreaking
"accidents"
(pages 85-102)
Dog barking
Barking too much
(pages 197-207)
Dog won't let go of things
Won't let go of things
(pages 234-237)
Dog getting into trash
Getting into trash
(starts on page 19)
Dog jumping on people
Jumping on people
(starts on page 20)
Dog pesters you when you're busy
Demands attention
(pages 61-65)
Dog growling, guarding food
Growling, guarding food
(pages 121-124)
Dog pulling on leash
Pulling on leash
(starts on page 183)
Aggressive dog
Aggression toward
people or other dogs
(starts on page 208)
Dog struggles during bath
Struggles, resists,
won't stand still
(pages 106-114)
Dog stealing food
Stealing things
(starts on page 19)
Dog chasing cat
Chasing the cat
(pages 224-227)
Mischievous dog pulling tablecloth
Mischievous,
gets into trouble
(starts on page 19)

Dog with flowerpot on head

If your dog does any of these things, don't feel bad. You're not alone. Many thousands of dog owners have emailed her with these same problems. And hundreds (many hundreds) have hired her to HELP them with these problems.
       Teach Your Dog 100 English Words   by Michele Welton -  Her Home Page  

 

   

  Picture Gallery

Well, over these past 6 months we have taken a lot of pics. These will be somewhat in order of his growth. You will be able to see, I think, why I call him a "Chameleon Dog". He has changed in his coloring a number of times. I would love to have the original pic of my puppy that I saw on the internet and immediately fell in love with -but- it is gone. After the transaction was complete and we were on our way out the door, the husband came home ... and was upset that the pups were being sold. I don't know the whole story but the Craig's List ad was gone by the time we got back home. Therefore, I could NOT get the original pic. -But- these are the ones I have of my own and my wife's girlfriend.

April 1st, 2015 April 1st, 2015
April 2nd, 2015 April 3rd, 2015
This is similar to the Craig's List ad pic that I fell in love with.
April 4th, 2015 April 4th, 2015
April 4th, 2015
His first bath. Looks like a drowned rat.
April 9th, 2015
His favorite place to sleep... in our dirty clothes.
April 14th, 2015
His other favorite spot, the master shower.
April 19th, 2015
Cat is almost 1 yr old. Kinda match in colors.
April 24th, 2015
His two month Birthday.
April 24th, 2015
Complacency and complete trust!
April 29th, 2015
He was climbing up in the chair. The little paws were flapping...
April 29th, 2015
... but he made it!!
May 3rd, 2015 May 7th, 2015
May 15th, 2015
The places we find to rest our heads... almost.
May 15th, 2015
Ahhh... this is how it is done.
May 22nd, 2015
Our toys... some he brought in from outside.
May 26th, 2015
Tired... laying down to drink.
May 31st, 2015
In our No Pull Harness.
May 31st, 2015
Still lying down to drink... and showing color change. Same day!!
June 4th, 2015
Showing off our color changes.
June 6th, 2015
Showing more color change.
July 7th, 2015 July 18th, 2015
And we have a digger!!
July 21st, 2015
One of our trips into the desert.
July 24th, 2015
Relaxing at the park with a friend.
August 4th, 2015
We now fill the back wall in the shower.
September 17th, 2015
Playing with friends, showing off my Ruffwear Harness... AND my color change!
September 25th, 2015
Sharing water with a friend.
September 25th, 2015
More sharing ...
July 28th, 2016... Chasing the birds...
October 2nd, 2016... Playing with Sundance...
2 years old - March 16th, 2017 ... same day
These 3 pictures somewhat illustrate why I have called him my 'chameleon dog'. His color changes with the light.
Sometimes drastically.
...and on June 13th, 2017  

   

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